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bcollins

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Posts posted by bcollins


  1. Next time check out Gardener's Wall in the McDowell's if your into primo AZ 5.5 routes. 2 pitches of stellar crack. Also Queen Creek for hundreds of sport routes, Pinnacle Peak's worth checking out for better granite. Camelback is probably the worst place to climb in the Phoenix area. Also the Supes are good for stout trad routes on quirky, cool rock. BTW the Supes were hit with snow this last weekend!


  2. Wallowed up to the chair pk basin with intentions of getting up on the No. Face (thursday). Alot of powder to contend with, took shoes which sucked and made our slog out even worse. All evidence points to loose, unconsolidated conditions on the No. Face, but I'm only guessing based on the appoach. Skiing would be a better bet in the backcountry until things firm up. POWDERRRRRRRRR fruit.gif


  3. Thanks. Truly a great day. thumbs_up.gif to inversions, at least early season ones.

     

    Thanks Gary. Looks like the rope did get a little twisted aruond on Kyle. We ilke climbing with a little extra drag sometimes. If you get on this route, at the top of the 3rd pitch, be sure to tie in to the panties instead of the chain anchor for extra hardman points.

     

    Ahhhh yes, Jessica's purple thong...........


  4. I'm moving back down to the Phoenix area Dec. 16th. At this time I'm not sure if I can get away for a trip to JT. (Wanna though, haven't climbed there yet) However if you would be interested in climbing in the Phoenix area, I'll put you up and show you the area. PM me, let me know what you think.

    Barry


  5. My old Khamsin 38 is a great pack for ice and general mountaineering, however it was limited due to it's lack of a floating lid, so I had it modified by Transition Threadworks out of Tacoma. Now it'll handle bigger loads without restricting head movement, and the buckles allow the top to function as a butt pack..........nice!!!


  6. Might try Transition Threadworks in Tacoma. 253-359-4875. They do alot of work on tents, packs, and other gear. They put a floating lid and a crampon patch on my Arteryx pack and now my Khamsin 38 is even better than stock. (Yes it's possible!)

    Barry


  7. I do currently use adjustable daisies (metolius, which can be a pain in the ass.....especially one-handed). I suppose I'm not working the tensioning technique well enough to keep my center of gravity over my feet. Need to work on that.

     

    Also CBS, I find that pulling a piece upwards, even slightly, increases your chances of popping it, especially small gear that's in a shallow placement.


  8. When working a vertical or slightly overhanging crack, I'm frustrated by not being able to climb higher than my fifi. What about placing an intermediate piece and clippin to your chest harness? Seems like I'm placing a TON of gear to get up corners, overhangs, etc. Any thoughts or tips?

    Barry


  9. I secured my buddy with a "hypnotic belay' on Labor Day up at Index. While aid climbing I simply stared intensely at a bug that was climbing the rock. Soon I no longer felt nor cared about his persistent tugs on my grigri. This technique seems to while away hours at those long belays................


  10. Yea the route is possible but as Josh said, it's a mess. Approached the route for an attempt last Sat. (9/3) Negotiated a route through the coleman glacier with considerable difficulty, only to bail when seeing the route close up. Looked like 2-3 major schrund type features and alot of hard ice. I'd say it's doable but the appoach eats up time. Let me know if anyone wants specific glacier approach beta.

    Barry

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