David_Parker
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Posts posted by David_Parker
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With SARS in the air, you can forget about going to China for awhile. I'd pick a more friendly summit in Nepal doesn't carry such a high peak fee.
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I use both.Reverse curve on my Cobras for waterfalls and AK on my x-15 straight shaft for alpine. I did a lot of water ice with the AK and it was good, but not as good clearing bulges, hooking or coliflower ice. As for alpine, I think it's funny that people use reverse curve picks. They suck for less than vert ice or making that placement when your reaching over a bulge. Alpine climbing is about speed and I move faster with the alaska pick by far. I'd use a classic curve before I'd use reverse in the alpine.
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Ed works very hard when he is not climbing. He does corporate motivational speaking, slide shows and has a book out and been involved with other things that bring in $. I'm sure his sponsers take care of him as well. He has a nice home on Bainbridge where he raises his family. Pretty normal, nice guy whos worked hard for all he has achieved in life.
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FUCK THE SEATTLE TIMES!! This just goes to show how fucked up the media is and how they only think of themselves. Ed shared with me why he was keeping a low profile and said I was not to tell ANYONE where he was or even share the link to his website. It was hard for me to not tell you guys, but I considered it a breach of security. I just hope it wasn't one of his "family and close friend" that gave the link away. I know it might not have been a huge secret, but the TIMES (media) blasting it all over the place is exactly what he was trying to avoid for security reasons. What gets me is they even SAY that in the article and then go on to publish it anyway. SHAME ON THEM!
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You guys are fucked. I'm coming in my boat and you expect me to try to get to fucking Green Lake. Well piss off. I'm going to go drink with Hikerwa instead. No reason why this couldn't be closer to downtown like at Lindas, or some other joint on Alki. Have fun cause I won't be there unless you change it from Zeekes. You act like downtown is in fucking Tacoma!
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I still have my titanium screws in my leg. I guess that makes me the $23.50 MAN!!
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AlpineK said:
The Alki isn't that outdoorsy. Well it is if DP brings his boat.
Anywhere downtown in vecinity of Pike Market works for me as well as Alki. I can park my boat at the Bell Street Marina. Easy walk from there. If the weather holds, I'll be coming by boat tonight! So make it fairly close!
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I bought the Olympus Stylus 300 and really like it especially the fact it is weatherproof! I found it for $300 plus shipping at dbuys.com. Whatever you buy, expect to spend up to $100 more for accessories such as extra battery, larger meg card, DC adapter, reader or what ever else you might need. I think 3.2 megapixels is more than adequate, but they make a Stylus 400 with 4.? megapixels if that is a concern. As far as shutter delay, if you puch the shutter 1/2 way and hold it, it fires quickly when you go the rest of the way.
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Probably THE best all round, do it all, approach, snow, ice, rock (up to 5.8/5.9) CASCADE boot out there, if it fits. I have the Tower gtx (same boot, less leather) and love 'em!
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I have ordered things from the internet mostly with great success and minimal problems. Here's a tip, only use internet companies that publish a customer service number and call it before you order to verify that you get a real person. If so, you will increase the liklihood of NOT having problems if they screw up your order. Another tip is don't believe the published prices. When I bought my digital camera, I needed a bunch of accessories. I asked "is that your best price" and they almost instantly gave me a much lower one. Maybe it was because I bought the camera and was adding on right then and they won't negotiate if you order just that accessory, but don't forget to ask!
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snafflehound said:
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D_P If you're going to refer folks to the book perhaps you should read it first. It was the most famous belay in climbing history. Pete caught 6 people by belaying offhis axe shoved into the snow behind a frozen in boulder. 5 of the 6 fell from 150 to 300 ft on a 45dg slope. There were 3 ropes not including Shoenings. Art Gilkey was very much alive through the whole thing.
SH: yeah, you probably have it better than I. It has been a long time since I read it and I made the post at work and the book is at home. Sorry! But I do believe Art was basically a "body" at the time and and they were lowering him and it was during this time when they were all getting straightened out that an avalanche swept him away, which probably saved the entire team by not having to deal with him anymore in a raging storm. Did I get that right. Great story and I think I will re-read it. All those guys were real heroes in my mind.
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oleg said:
one of it was to selfarrest on 35-40 deg pure ice.
Depends how far and how fast you've gone before you are in correct position to apply ice tool to slope. Even this is potentially lethal, depending on runout zone.
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Dwayner said:Stefan said:
I'm not sure, but wasn't that famous self arrest on K2 where everybody was roped up and one person saved them from a self arrest? I believe no pro was placed then.
I guess they were all experienced folk.
It seems to me that the famous incident on K-2 with Pete Schoening, Dee Molenaar, etc. involved a quickly placed boot-axe belay which saved the day for the whole big rope-team.
I believe it was none other than local climber Dee Molenaar that made the save and you can read about it in "K2, The Savage Mountain" There were two ropes, but they became entwined and there was a certain amount of luck that they all lived. Also at the time they were coming DOWN with Art Gilkeys dead body. This is quite a different scenario than a fall while going up.
I contemplated this very thing while tied to my Partner while climbing N. Face couloir of Buckner a few years ago. When we headed up, we expected to put in intermediate pro. But as it turned out, we were both totally comfortable climbing 50'-60' slope without the pro. It was a matter of us both wanting to keep moving and not deal with putting in picketts or putting the rope away. Plus, we never really knew if we were going to put something in if it was really available. I agree that a picket in the case of 150 feet of rope out between climbers is pretty worthless after the leader puts it in and has moved 30 feet passed it. What went through my head was that the second should have a system where he can quickly escape the rope and let his partner fly by and die by himself if he can't self arrest. One dead is better than two. Still, if the second falls, the leader has a chance of catching the second if the rope is fairly taut between them and he always has at least one tool in. So basicaly it's a crap shoot. I'll let some mathematician play with the odds.
Basically, it amazes me the that 1/2 experienced so called "ice climbers" are not willing to solo. Like Alpine K said, if they don't feel comfotable, maybe they shouldn't be there. All ice climbers climbing with TWO tools should consider their tools as PRO period. Leave the rope in the pack, climb side by side, talk to each other and enjoy the comraderie of climbing together!
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I just bought the Mt. Hardwear Phantom at REI. Retails at $240.00 but I had a 25% off coupon and some dividend $. It is a 30' bag, 800 fill down and weighs 1lb-5 oz. I double checked on a scale and it was correct. 3/4 zipper. Have not used it yet so can't comment yet. I usually carry a down belay jacket so I figure to have good range with this bag.
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Those prices are rediculous unless all the stuff is NEW!
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I was down at the North Face and they just got a huge load of gear and shoes from their recently closed Denver sale. Almost all rock gear and shoes are 25% off.
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OK, back to the top. I just passed on my kids shoes to Jason. I am still looking for some about 8.5 inches long or bigger for my son. PM for my mail address or phone #. Also, I will be in Seattle this afternoon/evening (6-10-03).
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I always liked the formatt of the Smith Rock Guide.
The older blue Wasatch Rock guide was physically a piece of shit. It broke into pieces immediately.
The Ice Climbing guide to the Canadian Rockies by Jo-Jo is tops. An unbelievable amount of info in a well designed formatt and sturdy, correctly sized book.
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The real answer depends a lot on what YOU need to put in your pack. Some people have very light weight sleeping bags that compress very small. Do you use a tent or bivy sack, what kind of sleeping pad. I suggest you put all the stuff you'll need for a typical climb for 3 days, put it in a duffle and then go stuff a few packs you seem interested in. Most packs will compress, so the trick is to buy one just big enough to carry what you need without going too big so you put more stuff than you Really need into the pack.
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I use evergreen branches although some partners give me shit for hacking up the trees.
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If I'm not there by 7:00, call the coast guard. Full on white caps out there. It's gonna be wild!
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Does anyone know where the closest public boat landing is to Ballard without going through any locks? Also, anyone in Kitsap wanting to go to the slide show and pub club after is welcome to join me by boat. My alternative is to park at Bell street marina and hitch a ride from someone. I'll trade boat ride for car ride! This is not definite yet. Read my signature and you'll understand.
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I thought it got done last year already. Personally, I'd rather enjoy it more by going slower. What's up with the speed thing; just another reason to chest beat? Who cares?
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Did I miss something? How did you break your legs? Sorry to hear that but you seem to have maintained some reasonable perspective and some cheer in spite of it all! Here's to a
recovery!
Mt. Challenger and Easy Pass
in North Cascades
Posted
Easy ridge is really asthetic and offers fabulous views to either side so I was glad I went that way. I think it would not have been difficult to gain the north (nw?) ridge of Whatcom from Easy Ridge and bagged that. The way down the back of Whatcom looks easy and brings you right to Perfect Pass. You then get in an extra peak and don't even have to mess with the imprfest impasse which btw didn't seem that hard to figure out. Another option would be to skip Easy Ridge, hike to Whatcom Pass and then go over Whatcom Peak from there and down to Perfect pass. Wayne and Alisdair and I feel like we kinda missed out by not bagging Whatcom, especially since all our days were over by about 2:00 pm! I'll give
for going out Challanger Arm and down Big Beaver. Ending up at the lake with beer waiting and swimming in the lake was a nice finish!