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Everything posted by layton
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I was in the Neswatch valley (NE Butt Slesse, Neswatch Spire, Rexford valley) checking things out today. Some dudes were up there too, sounded like ya'll were scoping something. What do you think is in up there? I'll be in Redrocks soon, so don't worry I won't steal your route. Clouds rolled in very early in the afternoon so I didn't see much. Couple more days of warm weather and a little freeze should produce good climbin', eh?Lemme know what ya'll found up there. p.s. I don't care if I misspellled ainything (i.e. neskwatch).
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I saw that route from liberty ridge. I have better harder routes to concider...I think it was climbed by accident and avalanched multiple times the minute they topped out. BUT- This poster/sprayed has a point. Nice job and good pace. Still, the guy sounds like a dick, and I wonder if he really did that route. Smells like bullshit to me..."Hey its really crappy weather, let's go do thermogenisis!". I dunno? Hats off if its true.
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That's pretty cool Dru. I live in B'ham and have missed every opportunity I've had to climb between here and hope on the Hwy. That area would be world class if it stayed cold long enough! Any news of conditions elsewhere 'round where you live? I'll be up there next cold snap. Sounds like 10 years ago conditions were much better (colder). Maybe in post-apocolypic Canada after Bush kills us all by getting us nuked, we can climb year round near there in the nuclear winter. -Mike
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I wasn't griping about any of the climbers that live here. All the climbers I've met are awesome folks. Bellingham, as I said rocks as a town. It's a non-climbing town with tons of climbers living in it who climb elsewhere. What we need is a climbing gym/gear shop (like Csacade Crags...great place!) that has a cantina like Casa. I would go there every day.
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I've seen "Trashk" and "Charlie" staking' out the 'lil girls at the leadin' edge and the lil' boys at the "y" with rubber gloves and ether. All the "whinning" and "I like boys" flames they've pathetically thrown at me were really to put the authorities off their trail and onto mine. I've heard their screams of terror and delight. Or maybe they're intimitated by that hard E3 Eerie route. And with that, I gotta take a crap. Then it's off to Casa with a bottle of tequilla and a rusty nail in a board to clean up this town. Anyone who wants to join the rebelion to get some good climbing 'round here or at least admit that eerie sucks (although your right, not as bad as ellensburg) can join my vigilante group. You gotta be able to swing a sack of doornobs though. We'll take care of the Leavenworth ranger district bastards next! Anyway, pinchie can't hold off that loaf much longer, Viva la revolution.
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Wow! Necronomican is a total dick wad. I met him once sewing up sehome hill boulders with the local search and rescue. Then the mountaineer came by and kicked his ass. He was cast out of bellingham years ago. He bought ten trail passes and puts them on cars at trailheads like, "Rowdy Ranchero" does for parking meters. Then at band camp when we were top-roping the sand travers at larabee he raped my girlfriend and shat in her mouth. He tried to get a job at base-camp once, but he only asked, "can I help you" seven times to a customer and only wore thirteen pieces of flair. Buttlicker!
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See my friendly post about B'ham climbing on the climber's board!
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Too much school too many failed attempts can make one make blantently stupid posts. I just wanted to see the reply for that one. B'ham kicks ass. Just don't move here.
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Bellingham as a place however rules! Do any of you bellingham posters know each other? I'd bet that most of us don't. I've never been to a more disenfranched climbing community. Why? I think it's b/c we have no local crag or climbing hang out. Yes, I know what your gonna say but: TheLeading Edge, YMCA, Larabee, Gov Lister(especially), Bat Caves, Baker crags, AAI, Base Camp, and REI all suck some serious ass compared to most other climbing town shops or crags. Let's do something about this! We need: giant earth movers to excate Squamish and move it here and transport all the hippies to squamish, a nuclear winter to make shit cold, a decent climbing gym (oxymoron?), and a gear shop w/robot employees who don't talk to you. What I don't think we should do is get together in a basement w/punch and pie to hang out, start any stupid clubs, join the mountaineers, or support local search and rescue. The reason for this slanderous post is because I keep meeting climbers around here I've just met or ever seen again, or get asked "oh, do you know so and so, he/she climbs too?" and have no idea who they are talking about.
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All my climbing buds have decided to go the next weekend (after my spring break), leaving me partnerless. I hate doing this, but anyone interested? I know the area fairly well. My goals are epinepherine and chrimson chrysalis. I really don't plane on sport climbing at the pullouts. I'd much rather do longer routes in the 5.8-5.10 range. Lemme know if you wanna go? -Mike
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Sweet! Nice try on Colonial. What route were you attemping? How long did the approach take (looks fun). Wish these conditios would last all spring!
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quote: You're pretty much on your own when it comes to winter alpine. As it should be. Alex, I totally agree. However, PNW winter alpine climbing relies so heavily on the complicated weather patterns to produce good conditions, plus most climbs can't be seen except from the approach - unlike many winter alpine routes in Canadian Rockies, Colorado, etc... Word of mouth on winter alpine climbing has always been a great tool to attempt conditional routes, or try new routes. We just have a few more variables to throw us off, so that's why I'm trying to get the beta. Plus if someone tells me a line looks awesome or the climb kicks ass, I'm much more willing to give 'em a go willing to try, than just looking at some lines in a guidebook. I guess I'm totally hypocritical when I get pissed if I see another party on the route I want to do, but asked for beta on the route or read it out of a guidebook. I assume like most ice-climbers that I am greedy, suspiscious, and selfish. Just don't wanna waste a nice weekend slogging or wind up at Mt.Si. Thanks for all the good beta, now lets go do some routes!
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quote: Do you mean Highway 20? Cascade River Road is not 100 miles long, only about 24 miles long. Alex Yeah, I meant Highway 20 -duh. Seems like 100 miles sometimes. Thanks for the rest of the info, I was surprised to hear that NY Gulley may be in. Is there a trip report hidden somewhere? If not, lemme know if it was a good climb (just cuz it's in "Random Climbs in the Cascades Vol II" doesn't mean it's a good climb). I think I talked to Don Serl about the NE Coulior of Lady. Sounded like there were lots of other lines around there to be done. Dru, do you know what the Sumallo Cirque climbs are like. Beckey says 3000 ft of climbing, but that's pretty undescriptive. Is it 3000' of 50 deg snow/ice or something more...eh...exciting. I'd love to check that area out anyhow. I hear the two routes on Payne (not the minus gullies) kinda suck from the AAJ or CAJ route reports.Wish I could be several places at once.
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As we all know, conditions on good winter/spring routes usually send us back home with nothing more to show than a truck full of garbage and wet gear wishin' you spend that one nice day in Squamish. I've done some lookin' at guidebooks for some good winter or spring routes(ice n' snow) and would like to know if anyone here has either done them, or has a good idea if they may be in. I don't mean "in" as in "this very second", hopefully someone will either have been by the area or do a simailr route with similiar condition requirements. I left off ones already hacked to death on this site. Feel free to add to my inquiry list: -Greybeard N.Face and Cuthroat E.Face CouliorLook fun! (someone please post when Hwy 20 opens!) -Dragontail Tripple Couloirs - bet they're good right now (wanted to go but got flu, only thing to spray about is on my snot rag) -Snoqualmie NY Gully, and the various Index N.Face Rts, and N.Face of Persis - I'm assuming none came in and won't be except for Persis. I saw a big ol' flow still there mid-spring last year. Someone check it out (I'll try) -Mile 115 on Cascade River Road-look across the river and spot two or three nice falls -they have names (WI4 2-3 p maybe). They were in late last November. -The N.Face Coulior on Slesse, NE Coulior on Lady Pk, N.Face of Cheam, and the minus 5 thru zero gullies on rideout/payne.All these look cool in the guidebook, but that's all that I've seen. CAJ kinda helpful. -Stuart Glacier Coulior. Next time someone takes a stroll up there, give a holler. p.s. someone take a helicopter or aim their satalite at the Horshoe basin area of cascade pass next winter. Hopefuly this list sparks some interest and good beta on some of these obscure or overcrowded routes. Let us know what's in, or save us a slog.
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Sounds like our injured friend needs those baked goods more than anyone. Hope she's doing good and is back in the mountains soon! That was some great teamwork up there. Super Resuce Man was so relaxed up there, I bet he ate a few batches when we weren't lookin'. Where did you find this guy?
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No beer for kidz? Well then, I guess we can put her back at the top of the climb just as easy as we helped her down
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How far can you drive to the trailhead for Colchuck Lake? Is it at the campgroud still? Also, anyone tried Tripple Couliors on Dragontail yet this winter. Looks like it could go? Hard to judge this time o' year. I'll let you know what I see up there, may try it this weekend (may not).
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Hey, glad the Outdoor center and I could help. It's all we could do for sieging every damn climb we went to. One of our participants brought a radio. 1st time I've ever had one of those yuppy-talkies and had to use it. Go figure, that's probably what made her slip. If you have it, your gonna wind up using it (except for that 3 year old condom in all of your wallets---you dirty bastards). Anyway, beers can be dropped off or mailed to the Outdoor Center, Western Wa Univ, Bellingham Wa 98225.