pete_a
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Posts posted by pete_a
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My prayers to the climbers' families. Wish someone could've warned those climbers about Liberty Ridge when the weather is bad. That route is an awful place when a storm hits.
I have to admit I'm curious to hear how much experience these folks had.
Hope the rest of the climbing season on Rainier is free of tragedies.
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Being someone who's been caught in the storm at Thumb Rock before (by the way, the weather forecast we had the day we left was dead wrong, we never woulda intentially gone for the climb in bad weather) I cannot recommend highly enough that you should wait for good weather. Descending from Thumb Rock and traversing the Carbon and Winthrop glaciers in a near white out was one of the most fucked up experiences of my life.
Go find someplace sunny to hang out this weekend and save Lib. Ridge for another day...my two cents.
[ 05-23-2002, 06:18 AM: Message edited by: pete a ]
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Hey Mike,
Thanks for the info and the advice about skiing cadaver gap...I've thought thats always looked like a nice line to take back to camp muir. The weather doesn't look like its going to cooperate for my buddies and I this weekend for getting high up on Rainier, but we may go horse around up in the Tatoosh or ski the Inter glacier. Guess I'll just have to keep hoping for summer to make an appearance sometime soon.
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Hey Bobbyperu,
thanks for the info...I was hoping that you'd have some beta to share since you were just up there last weekend, congrats on the Liberty Ridge ascent!
I think I'm just going to have to keep an eye on the weather and just wait until conditions are perfect sometime this summer...although I'm still keeping my fingers crossed for Mem. weekend.
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Some buddies of mine and I are hoping the weather will cooperate for a shot at skiing Rainier on Memorial Day weekend. The two routes under consideration are of course two of the easiest climbing routes on the mountain, Ingraham Direct and the Emmons. Has anyone had a good view of either route this spring and has any beta to offer as to which might be the better choice? I've climbed both routes several times before, but never skied 'em.
Thanks.
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I was on St.Helens on Sunday doing the annual ski in a dress Mama's day trip with about twenty of my buddies. I was the telemarking freak in the pink dress and cowboy hat.
I printed up and passed out 120 flyers explaining the current status of snowmobile access and the f***ed up permit situation on the mountain. Almost everyone I gave a flyer to was shocked to hear 'bilers didn't have to pay shit in the springtime. I think I got a lot of folks riled up and motivated to write some letters!
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I've done Adams in September before and the glissade runs are well established and more like toboggan runs. Bring some durable pants and a plastic bag and butt slide the whole south side of the mountain.
The snow conditions are usually extremely suncupped and dirty, for the exception of the glissade paths, so I wouldn't think about bringing skis or a snowboard...it wouldn't be worth the weight.
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Typically a ranger is sitting somewhere along the standard route checking all climbers and skiers permits.
The ranger would have damn near an impossible task to try to flag down every snowmobile cruising along at 50mph above the 4800ft elevation mark. You'd end up needing rangers with snowmobiles just to enforce the permit system if it was imposed on the 'bilers and you actually wanted to force compliance. I think giving snowmobiles to rangers for permit enforcement is an even worse solution to the problem that we are faced with now.
I figure at the very least everyone needs to pay for the same permit if we are all to have the same access rights, and those that choose not to buy the permit, whether you travel on skis or a snomobile, can run the risk of getting a ticket.
I'll be on St.Helens the weekend of May 11th and 12th and I think I might get a bunch of flyers printed out that I can hand out to everyone I see on the mountain asking them to write to their congressman and to the volcanic monument manager and let their opinion be known.
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By the way,
I spoke with the climbing ranger for St.Helens today...and although he said he could understand why I thought there was a bit of a double standard concerning 'bilers and climbers, he said those are the rules and if you are caught without your little $15 permit (or a snowmobile) you get fined $100.
He said the only thing one can really do to help change the situation is write to the St.Helens Monument manager explaining your view.
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I wonder if you don't have to pay the park service climbing permit fee for Denali if you snowmobile up it?
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Should we assume that the slideshow is 7pm tonight? I don't see a date as to WHEN this slideshow is...just a time.
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If you want to make an attempt at taking some action...although I think this is probably a futile battle against the forest circus, write a letter to the Gifford Pinchot National Forest and the St.Helens Volcanic Monument about this. The offpiste website has a very nicely drafted letter which you can print out, sign your name to and mail off. The mailing addresses are on the website.
http://www.offpistemag.com/access/takeaction/sthelsnomo.html
By the way, I just called the St.Helens Monument office... (360)247-3900 The guy I spoke with said exactly what Lowell wrote...I also asked him...'If I was to rope tow all my ski buddies up to the summit with a snowmobile (of course I don't own a snowmobile and never would buy one) would anyone of us have to buy a permit?' The answer was 'no, if you have a snowmobile, you don't have to pay anything' I asked who enforces the permits on the mountain, he said sometimes its a Skamania county sherrif office (probably on a snowmobile) or a f.s. ranger. I'm going to do some checking around and find out how much the ticket is if you get caught.
[ 04-23-2002, 08:14 AM: Message edited by: pete a ]
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As many of you might know, the last weekend before the summer quota on the number of climbers on St.Helens is quickly approaching (May 11/12). The annual Mothers Day ski in a dress from the crater rim extravaganza is happening Sunday May 12th. Should be a pretty decent party/backcountry goofball gathering in the Marblemount parking lot Saturday night before heading up to ski on that Sunday.
I've bought permits to climb the past four years when I've gone, and for the exception of last year (probably due to shitty weather and a low snowpack) I've been stopped by a forest circus ranger who wanted to see my permit. But after reading this thread and hearing that its legal to ride a goddamn polluting sled to the crater rim, and not even have to pay for a permit....I'm really thinking about skipping the permit this year and just dealing with the consequences. Does anyone know how bad the ticket is if you get caught without a permit? Do they really enforce the tickets? or is the more of the same bullshit hollow threat if you ignore buying a trailhead permit?
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sorry all, guess I've got is backwards. The bolts were missing from the top of Barney's Rubble, Bruce's Boulder does still have the huge U-shaped metal t.r. hangers up top. Its Barney's thats missing the bolts. guess I didn't have enough coffee this morning or something...
[ 04-08-2002: Message edited by: pete a ]
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Hi all,
Yesterday was my first trip out to Leavenworth for the year, and I went over to Barney's Rubble to set up a toprope and do a few easy warm up climbs. I hiked around to the top, and much to my suprise, all but two bolts had been chopped, and those bolts remaining had the hangers removed...I know they were there last spring....Does anyone know whats going on? Any reason for someone to chop the bolts? just curious...I did a search to see if this topic had been brought up before, but nothing came up. I still managed to get a t.r. set up using pro and a few slung boulders...but it would've been nice to just clip the bolts and go.
[ 04-08-2002: Message edited by: pete a ]
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According to the MRNP website, the White River Rd. is estimated to open Friday May 17th...keep your fingers crossed!
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Baker via the Easton Glacier can easily be done in a weekend even in the winter/early spring. I climbed/skied it a couple years ago in early April when snow still blocked the road at only about 1800'. It was easy to ski the last 3-5 miles to the trailhead and then on up to the higher camps at the base of the Easton in one day, summit and ski out the next day. It may not be possible to hold to that timeline without skis though...they save a ton of time on this trip. You will have to deal with lots of snowmobilers on the road...but most are very friendly...almost wish I had brought a bike inner-tube & rope to ask for a rope tow up the road by some of the friendlier 'bilers.
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SOLD
[ 02-25-2002: Message edited by: pete a ]
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[ 02-20-2002: Message edited by: pete a ]
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I am hoping that this high pressure sticks around through Friday night/Saturday morning so I can get in a climb/ski of the south side route on Hood. Has anyone been up there in the past week? Seems like its probably quite climbable right now.Thanks.
Petepeter_alderson@hotmail.com
[ 02-13-2002: Message edited by: pete a ]
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Hi all,
Just got back a few days ago from climbing La Malinche and Orizaba down in Mexico. Had an incredible time, one of the best climbing trips of my life. I got lots of great beta from folks on this site before I left and I recall that a few people on this site mentioned they were planning on also going to Mexico this winter. If anyone would like some moderately up to date beta on any part of my trip to make their excursion to Mexico go smoother, feel free to drop me an email.Pete
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So my little crappy point and shoot camera finally died last summer and I need to get a replacement.
I'm buying it to use primarily for a trip to climb volcanoes in Mexico in just a few weeks.
Its been years since I've used an SLR but I'm kinda interested in getting one so I can get creative (night time-exposure shots, etc). But weight is also an issue as I don't want to carry a ton of camera gear on glacier slogs.
Anyone out there know of a good point and shoot or SLR (not too expensive) to take a look at? I've heard that Yaschica makes a good lightweight camera that Rock and Ice raved about a year or two ago. Anyone remember what it was?
Thanks in advance.
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I'm heading to Mexico this winter too Jan 11-22nd. I posted a request for beta about a month ago and got lots of good responses back. Look here:
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=000961&p=
Have fun!
By the way Jim, do you do any climbing with the Chemeketans in Salem? I grew up in Salem before moving to Seattle...used to do lots of stuff with that club when I was younger.
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Thanks for everyone for the responses, as this is my first climbing trip in a foreign country I have a ton of questions. I have read the Secor book and I its great to hear about other peoples opinions of the Reyes outfit down there at Orizaba.
Terminal Gravity- If you wouldn't mind emailing me some info on alternatives to hiring the Reyes for the car shuttle up to the huts on Orizaba.
Also, how to you get your maps for Orizaba, from the map shops I've visited in Seattle, it sounds darn near impossible to get the maps ahead of time in the US.
As of now, the four of us are planning on renting a car at the airport and getting to the towns near Ixta and Orizaba that way. Maybe I'll have to take a look at bussing it instead of driving.
peter_alderson@hotmail.com
[This message has been edited by pete a (edited 09-25-2001).]
Anyone climb the Emmons glacier this weekend?
in Mount Rainier NP
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Just looking for some beta and how the glacier is looking. The official park website says that a route up the Emmons is established, but I'm curious if there are any particular difficulties...really icey? any really bad looking snowbridges? how skiable is the route looking?
Many thanks.
Anyone think the Ingraham glacier might have softer (ie: more skiable) snow conditions than the Emmons because it gets more direct sun exposure?
[ 06-03-2002, 04:16 PM: Message edited by: pete a ]