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AlpineK

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Posts posted by AlpineK

  1. Trip: Alpine Lakes - Kendall Peak Traverse

    Trip Date: 07/23/2023

    Trip Report:

    Solo of the Kendall Peak ridgeline.  I've done this once before and had fun both times

    Start on the standard PCT route north of Snoqualmie Pass and travel past views of Guy peak the travel east and up on a popular ski slope.  

    From there you get on the ridge and head north.  I got views of one or more people who took the direct route to the summit from the PCT.  From the summit views of the ski area and I-90 are good.

    After descending the standard scramble route to the PCT, I continued on the PCT for summertime views of the Kendall Adventure zone

     

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    Gear Notes:
    Nothing special

    Approach Notes:
    Standard PCT route, then cut up and east towards the Kendall ridgeline.
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  2. The manager of the outdoor program at my university worked as a climbing ranger in the Tetons prior to when I knew him.  He told me if he wanted to keep working as a ranger in the Tetons, he would have needed to attend a police training school.  Apparently being able to ticket drivers in the park for speeding or whatever was a bigger priority for that park.

  3. National Parks vs Forest Service lands

    National Parks focus on land/space preservation and forest service land is for mixed use, but preservation is an element of mixed use

    While there are visitor centers on National Park and Forest Service lands most of these regions see limited recreational use.  People stop to watch old faithful errupt or visit the lodge at Paradise.  Only a small number do a significant amount of backpacking/climbing in those areas.

    The North Cascades visitor center is small, and only a few people use the area within the park.  Based on that preservation is a bigger goal for the North Cascades Park.

     

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  4. On March 22, 2019 Frank Fickeisen passed away at the age of 93.

    Frank was President of the Seattle Mountaineers when I was born.

    As a climber he was part of the 6th ascent of Mt. Waddington in 1960.  A few years ago I posted a Trip Report that describes the climb

    https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/53596-tr-mt-waddington-bravo-glacier-7281960/

    There were no helicopters in those days, so they flew from Campbell River into a small lake south of the mountain.

    In addition Frank and friends flew in a ski plane into the St. Elias Range and ascended a few surrounding peaks in 1961

    https://www.mountaineers.org/about/history/the-mountaineer-annuals/indexes-annuals-maps/the-mountaineer-1961?fbclid=IwAR1Pu914woYJGO_NkVi8bhdUJPdR99HXYt09-gxvcw6BZGZTKfK8JJALsL8

    In addition to serving as President of the Mountaineers, Frank was also President of the Federation of Western Outdoor Clubs.

    For work Frank was employed by Boeing and worked on planes including the 707, 727, 747, and 767.  In addition he was involved with Boeing's discarded plans to build an SST.

    In later times Frank was a major player in Extended Range Operations for Twin Jet planes.  In the old days only 3 or 4 engine planes were allowed to make long flights (typically over oceans).  The work benefitted both Boeing and Airbus https://www.nap.edu/read/6265/chapter/1

    After retiring Frank took part in lots of hiking trips with friends and one multi day ski trip in Montana.

    He also taught me how to ski and took me on a few mountaineering trips.

    Attached photo of Frank on top of Mt. St. Helens in 1967

    Frank-St_Helens-1967-Crop.jpg

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  5. To the best of my knowledge, one or two groups have successfully climbed through a series of pinnacles where the ridge steepens.  At that point the group or groups descended the north col route. 

    It's still a long ways to the summit after ascending the pinnacles.  You wouldn't meet up with the north col route until you are practically on the summit.

  6. Thirty years ago I took part in an attempt to ascend an unclimbed route on Mt Everest (NE Ridge).

    Our trip was during the post monsoon period (August-September).  While we did have a period of good weather, snowfall became mostly non stop.  At the end of August jetstream winds descended. No expedition attempting routes on the northern side of the mountain was able to summited that season.

    The route we attempted was the same route Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker died on.  In subsequent years I believe climbers have made it through a series of pinnacles, but no one has summitted via this route.

    Article: https://lmtribune.com/northwest/last-men-on-the-mountain/article_962a9909-5920-52f9-9413-3a857cf43f3f.html?utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook&utm_campaign=user-share&fbclid=IwAR3eywumm7VM5nSMLcUJQRzbyt_KQ2tlTbKcSZPQW9Qb9u2Tdf13X6XHLbs

    It was interesting/depressing to see how some of the Chinese liaison officers treated Tibetans.

    When we new we were not going to summit, two brits and myself did a 20 mile walk down the road.  We told others not to say anything to the main liaison officer until trucks scheduled to drive us to Nepal showed up.

    Once the liaison officer caught up with us, he was a bit pissed.

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