dbb
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Posts posted by dbb
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Pilling is too funny. Thanks for sharing lowell
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word up, thanks again Bill!
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Climb: Eldorado-NW Couloir
Date of Climb: 11/13/2004
Trip Report:
Ken and I climbed the NW couloir on Eldorado this weekend in a rather slim 12 hour window of good weather. It was a fun and reasonably short route with some good ice and a lot of neve. We took a different and shorter approach by rappelling down from the notch between Eldorado and Dean's Spire.
Bug n' Billygoat
the route
Gear Notes:
1-2 ice screws, 2 pickets, medium rock rack with pins. One rope.
Approach Notes:
Road gated at Eldorado TH. Snow started right after the boulder field. about 6-12" of spring-ish snow with a rain crust. Firm footing about 7500ft.
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I just got a pair of the 2004 Quarks and have to say quite frankly they rock! Great clearance, natural swing, perfect headweight (for me) and grip diameter. The leashless hook will be nice for ice, but I wish I could figure out how to take the thing off for alpine. I mean, the freaking info booklet shows me how to step by step figure-4 across a roof, but doesn't show the magic step of what to do once you remove the bolt. I just climbed with the things on an they plunged alright. The new clipper leash thing works pretty nicely too, though seems more fragile than the androids..
I just don't get it when people compromise what tools they buy because they think it will be harder to plunge into snow. If you're buying an ice tool, buy an ice tool. Yeah bent shafts or rubber handles may be a little harder to plunge, but only marginally so. Remember when bent shaft pulsars were considered "too extreme" for alpine?
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I'll take the mythos. check pms
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They list the length of the sling, biner to biner. So yes, a 48" is 96" of material, aka a "double".
24" is a single shoulder length. -
I setup my Rambos as offset mono points a few years ago. I used the dual points (give you an extra set of front points) and made my own spacers. You can pretty easily find aluminum spacers at the hardware store. I cut the spacers so that I could go with offset mono or centered mono. I believe the regular rambo mono kit is a centered mono, fyi. Here's a pic of my crampon:
Anyhow, the monos rock on water ice, I really like the offset too.
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pro mountain sports and feathered friends rent them too.
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at least you could just swing into that thar sandstone if you don't like the holds
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was there yesterday. 6" of snow on the ground, no ice. Those routes don't really get much ice anyways. FYI, the first bolt on Guru has been stripped of its hanger.
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ken- let's carpool, I plan on going
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sounds like you need a sooooobaru or a toyota wagon. can sleep in the back (if about 6' or under), better gas than a truck and handle better in snow.
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Hope Lambone is okay, sounds like he might have been up on NA wall alone. Fingers crossed.
more info at supertopo
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Great advice all, thanks! In summer I've found the I90/sandpoint/cranbrook route is faster and less stressfull than the HW1 to the Banff area. You can't argue much with keeping the wheels strait for at least half the drive on I90!
any other advice for Canmore n00bs?
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I've used the nikwax grease (sold for boots) to waterproof my gloves' palms. It adds a nice amount of tack but hasn't rubbed off on my gear. Probably need to do it once-twice a season.
Thinking about leaving the random 'bag o gloves' behind ya jens?
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... Also like the dish washer gloves (Vinyllove) with the polyester lining ($12 at the outdoor shop by REI).
duuuude, I was in there right off the bat!
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I thought the marmot ice-moto gloves were awesome. Thin, padded, warm enough to lead in. They've been too expensive for me to own tho ($70 for probably 2 seasons worth of glove)
I like any thin glove with a leather palm. I find that climbing in thin gloves helps decrease the pump (less overgripping through thick gloves. I carry a warm thick pair of gloves on the harness for belaying and rappelling (also saves the lead gloves). MEC sometimes makes them. Also like the dish washer gloves (Vinyllove) with the polyester lining ($12 at the outdoor shop by REI).
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Schultzs!!!!!!!!!!
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AAJ is usually like December 31st iirc
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oh crap, now my eyes are going. I'm mistaking pulsar for hummingbird. Next I'm going to grab for a fat tire and get a bud light
Nick- how broken up was the Inspiration on the way over to the McCallister?
Scholler Dryskin Extreme Pants
in The Gear Critic
Posted
Anybody used pants (like the Cloudveil Symmetry) made of this stuff around the Cascades? They definitely seem warmer than pants made from Dryskin Dymanic, but is this fabric too warm for summer alpine climbs in the cascades?