SherpaJim

I was on that climb with Dan's partner. There was plenty of snow on each pitch with some ice on pitch one and three. The ice has thinned out quite a bit on pitch 3, but I could still get in a couple of screws for a belay just above ice column. The rap route actually improved since Dan's climb in January. Much more snow accum, so the fixed rap locations were all accessible. A nice climb! Enjoy! - Jim

quote: Originally posted by Peter Baer: I'm looking for something that will simulate a real pack yet is compact enough that I can wear it to the gym without knocking people about. What about weight vests? I would guess that they don't work out the back and butt muscles the same way but they sure are a lot less bulky. They run about $90 so I'm also thinking about constructing a workout pack by just stripping an old pack and hanging weights on it. Peter: Why not just wear a small pack? I usually use a 2000 cu inch technical day pack that I've reinforced a bit. I've loaded it with up to two 25 lb. weight plates so it weighs about 52 lbs. I do my stair, incline treadmill, and elliptical cross trainer work with it and it's pretty compact. I've even had a hydration system in it, oh, and my walkman too. It does put a greater strain on the shoulders, much more than a full size pack, so periodically, I wear my regular pack and load it up. - Jim

quote: Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: Thanks for your clarification. I should have guessed that people would have to increase the resistance of the stair machine to counteract the increased weight, but nobody has ever mentioned it. I am recovering from achilles tendonitis. I have included a stretching program in addition to weight training, climbing, stair master and hiking, and have seen an improvment. (Not running has helped as well) Dan: I've tried trail running and agree that it strengthens a lot of the stabilization muscles that normally wouldn't get a workout from a stepper machine. It also helps with aerobic conditioning. Unfortunately, my old hip objects to the percussion of trail running, so I can't do it often or long enough to get a training effect. I've adapted my training program to work around old injuries. I've also found that the Precor eliptical cross trainier with variable grade and resistance works well and has minimal adverse effect on my joints. I also will wear my climbing boots once in a while to force me to use the same muscles that I use when climbing or hiking (more quads and gluets with the boots and less calf). I vary the weight and even the pack that I wear to match what I wear on an ascent. One thing I've seen at the gym is that many people "cheat" and hold the handrails while working out. I find I get best results and a much harder workout by not using hands and keeping in balance on each step. I also vary the steps per minute to simulate fast or "slog" ascents, ranging from 80-120 steps per minute. Since I can't trail run, I jog on a treadmill indoors and vary the incline to do high output pushes ever so often. So far, no injuries and it provides the aerobic part of my workout. - Jim

Folks: Lots of good feedback, but I want to comment on all of the advice to "get out there and hike". Believe me, I would if I could, but I can't. I work too many hours and I'm too far from the mountains. That's where machine training is critical to my training program. Not only is it immediately available to me 24 hours a day in all weather, but I can control the intensity of the workout and keep my heart rate in the target zone. I can't maintain that level of exertion on a hike or climb. I also can't get to a steep enough hill that is long enough to climb for 90 plus minutes without driving for 3 hours up and 3 hours back. Clearly not feasible 4-6x a week! I was not a big fan of exercise machines until this past year when I trained for a big climb. Let me just say that I had no trouble humping a 75 lb. pack (I weigh 140) all day up steep trails and a glacier. I'm sold on the virtues of machines and weight training as a solid foundation to a training program. - Jim

Lhotse: Had me worried there.. thought you'd mention the rooster hat shot! Ooops! I love my windstopper hat and gloves, but I find windstopper a bit much for my torso or legs. A matter of preference and how much heat you generate. - Jim

LD: I have a photo of you in that sleeping bag if you would like to attach it to your post! Kind of illustrate your point? The face of a satisfied customer! And way to go with your glowing endorsement of the Alien... really encourages someone to buy the bloody thing!

Snow... really? Which end goes in the ice? Oh, the sharpy pointy end! No wonder! But seriously, you sarcastic SOB, the bottom split section that stradles the screw hanger is made of white metal and will take no abuse whatsoever. I am accustomed to climbing gear being bullet proof, so I was really amazed when the bloody thing broke so easily.

My favorite gear... Moonstone Activent windshirt...Have to disagree on the quality issue. I can't kill this thing and I wear it more than any other piece of clothing (even ice climbing). Repels water, nice trim cut, pit zips, precise zippers. MH Trango 3.1 tent - stable in high winds, tight in rain, reasonable weight, and high quality. No complaints at all. La Sportiva Nepal Extremes - these boots do it all; approach hikes, ice, snow, mixed... no blisters, warm toes in the winter. Impecable quality. Too damn expensive though! One of the few things I've ever bought at retail. MEC Powerstretch Fleece Suit - a one piece farmer john suit that I wear for ice climbing or glacier sloggin'. Can't beat the MEC and Canadian exchange rate. Leki Makalu trek poles - what can I say? Marmot - my favorite clothing company..my 100 wt. fleece climbing T goes on every trip Hates: North Face's fussy zippers Second the vote on 2-ply goretex Smiley's screws crank handles - hate the handles, love the screws - the coffee grinders are made of white metal crap and shatter if you hit them with a tool Non-Gear Hates: Canadian export restrictions on climbing gear People with no trail manners - taking breaks in the middle of the trail, not yeilding to hikers coming down trail, noisy, etc. ice mutilators - climbers that bash the hell out of an ice flow.. no finesse at all, leaving the flow with huge pockmarks and calving off chunks IMHO

Hey Snow... Better not let Mark Twight ever hear you say "Most every palmcorder these days weighs less than one pound and delivers stunning quality. I believe the Sony PC1 weighs a scant 9 oz." A "scant 9 oz."!!!! Twight couldn't justify carrying much more than a two pound belay parka on his 60 hour climb! No bivy, no half bag...nada. Take a look at his book "Extreme Alpinism" and you'll see that he counts every gram of weight he carries on a trip. - Jim

I strongly agree with BRUKB that there is a difference between the technical difficulty of the route and the degree of dangerousness. Although I have no first hand experience with the Willis Wall, everything I've read seems to support rating any of the Willis route variations as being dangerous, but not particularly technical. They are typically rated an grade IV-V (although under certain conditions and times, Thermogenesis is rated a III), yet the objective hazards of frequent sweeping avalanches, high incidence of rock and ice fall, and the lack of view of storms approaching all add up to a very dangerous climb. Dan, you're absolutely right...but I'd like to see if I can phrase it somewhat differently. What one perceives as dangerous is relative, based on experience. That can work both ways. The truly experienced alpinist may be scared witless by the high level of objective hazards of a particular route, whereas a novice or less experience climber may not even be aware of the danger or be minimally concerned. So in the case of the Willis Wall routes, I suspect that relatively inexperienced climbers may be oblivious to the degree of objective hazards and just do the route. Sometimes the old saying "ignorance is bliss" is correct. - Jim

Courtenay: Thanks for the advice. I vary my routine much more than I indicated in my previous post. The reason I do more gym work than outdoor work is my schedule. I can hit the gym virtually anytime my schedule permits, and even when on business travel. I like your proposed training routine better! Training outside is so much more interesting than doing stair work watching CNN! Thanks... - Jim

Thanks for the comments. I'm still on the fence about bivies; not their utility, but rather whether I really need one. Forrest, I agree with you a 100%. It comes down to the two reasons you cited on why you might choose a bivy over a tent. If getting pinned down in weather is ever an issue, I'll take a tent any day. I've also experienced the KISS approach to gear. The less bells & whistles the better. If I get a bivy, I'll select one based on simplicity of design, reputation on durability, and weight. Not necessarily in that order! Thanks.. - Jim

I regularly train to maintain my mountaineering and backpacking stamina at a gym. I do a variety of cardio, aerobic, and strength training on average of four times a week for about 90 minutes. The other days I concentrate on upper body work. Two to three times a week, I do my 45 minutes of stairmaster work with a 50 lb. pack (I weigh 140 lbs). I feel good and have had no injuries. But I've been cautioned that I should limit these sessions to once a week. Any truth to that caution? Is it safe to boost the weigh periodically? - Jim

Folks: I'm finding more times when I would rather bivy than take a tent (I'm referring to alpine climbs, not rock). Any recommendations on Bivies? OR seems to have the greatest variation in models and features, but I've looked at Integral Designs,Bibler/BD, Moonstone, TNF, MH, and some generic brands like MEC. I'm not planning on using it in warmer weather (so bug netting isn't a priority with me) but it's got to withstand all forms of prolonged percipitation. And, of course, weight is a factor. - Jim

By my reconning, the Headwall looked pretty good but lots of hard ice. Getting to the North Ridge route from the Black Buttes would be a navigation challenge with detours away from the face. Lots of rock exposed on the North Ridge approach ramps.