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Everything posted by Loco Raindrops
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Just a fyi, I did a bit of glacier travel many years back while in Alaska. Im not new to crampon use either. I currently own a pair of g20 autos, and a pair of Air Techs(steel semis) which will be what I most likely use on Rainier. I play on ice any chance I get. Obviously I am pretty much sol on Pa glacier travel. Just wanted to clarify a bit.
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The climb is going to be a dual purpose trip being I am also meeting family out there so if not for that I prolly would consider Baker. I have 30yrs of wilderness death marches under my belt. Trust me, there is a reason I want to get above treeline lol. I do trail maintenance out here in the east. I really need some new scenery and at this point even a desert seems quite appealing. I would go with July-Aug but the problem is the seminars thru RMI are either in June or September. I am staying at the cottages in Ashford so Im really trying to keep it simple regardless. I climbed around on rock and other stuff out this way growing up but its been so long Im a noob as far as I am concerned. Im taking courses here at the local climbing gym here in Pittsburgh. Every little bit helps I would think and I should be able to get in a lot of time on the ropes leading to 2020. If nothing else I hope to just have a leg up when I get out to Paradise. Gonna do a run up Mt Washington this winter and possibly throw a trip to the Adirondaks into the mix. Its all about the journey. I feel like a kid on Christmas already and Im a year away lol.
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I get it man and I do really appreciate it. I figured as with anything like this there are pros and cons. There are always tradeoffs. I just want to get dialed in as best I can and who better for me to harass for info than you all? 😁
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So, should I consider June over September? Will a 20° bag cut it in June? I know I can obviously layer. I have a 40°, 20°, and a -20° bag but the -20 is a tank(synthetic being we have high humidity here.) I have a MH Spectre 20° down bag that is under 3lbs I'd prefer slogging up the ridge if I can. Thoughts?
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We dont have much out here in the east so my only worry is altitude but I think a few days at Muir may help with that. I will prolly do Lions Head rt here on Washington this winter, and maybe back to the Adirondaks to play around before I come out that way. Been many years. Im pretty set on the Muir seminar. Then again if you ask my wife I change my mind all of the time so everything is subject to change lol.
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Meh, I suppose my vehicle analogy was based on previous experience. I had more than 1 close friend die with a vehicle being involved.I trust that the guides will make the right calls as I know I am nowhere near that capability nor would I ever overplay my capabilities. Its not just about me up there. This has been something that I always wanted to get after. Ive spent a lot of time alone in very cold conditions in a tent, on snowshoes, pulling a pulk, blah blah blah but the allure of climbing has always drawn me in. So my logic is get at it. I 1st as you may have seen was considering the Muir 5 day climb but then realized I would get much more out of the seminar. Its more about that for me than summit. (journey vs trip) I guess after 30+ yrs of primarily backpacking Im kinda bored with it and think climbing will be the fix I need. ...and I want to juice it for every bit of knowledge I can.
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What are the pros and cons of June as opposed to September?
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But you still can fall into a crevasse when the surface below you decides to let go. No matter what there will always be potential hazards. ...am I missing something? I mean I get minimizing potential but I just think the risk is always there and the mountain will do what it does. Folks roll down the highway in 2 ton chunks of metal daily at 80mph and never bat an eye.
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Yeah, I suppose to a degree the objective possibilities are present regardless of what route ya do. I always was of the the approach that the mountain is going to do what it wants when it wants so Im willing to roll the dice because in my mond while you may minimize one potential others can alqays arise out of nowhere. Thats part of it right? Im trying to figure out when would be the better time to go. Beginning of season or in September. Hoping some of you all can help me out and give me some sort of idea what I am looking at as far as the different times of year goes so I can make a logical choice. I believe June is the other time they run this program. May do the Muir Seminar. https://www.rmiguides.com/mt-rainier/camp-muir-seminar
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Yeah I heard Kautz can be sketchy. I could also do this seminar on the Muir route as well.
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So, after picking the bean I have decided I want to get the most I can out of my trip to Rainier from a learning perspective for the time I have to do it. I've decided to deep6 the basic 5 day route thru RMI and instead am going with either their Kautz or Emmons seminar. So, here is my question. Of these 2 routes what would be your choice and why? (Doesnt have to be one is easier than the other) This fatboy can motor. I believe I will get more from the whole thing by opting for one of these 2 choices. They have a Muir option as well but I know this is the most travelled and most likely to run into a jam(especially late July/early August) so leaning towards the other 2 routes. Also a goal down the road is Denali so... Im also a tent kinda dude. Thanks in advance.
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Im considering doing their seminar climb which is more focused on education and skills instead of the base 5 day. Granted u make a run at the summit but its honesltly not about that for me.
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Lol all good. Anyone here ever stay in the cottages in Ashford?
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Definitely bringing gaiters. Have a pair that will be fine for up there. More for not turning my lower pant legs into swiss cheese than anything. I never considered showing up with a rope but did think the Simmerlite would be necessary and a bottle but zero need to melt snow being RMI does it for me. Wouldnt have minded in the least tho. Part ofthe journey as far as I am concerned.
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Yeah, honeslty Im really not sweating summit. If it happens cool, if not still cool. Im just amped to plant my feet there and give it a shot. Im more into the journey than the trip. How I have always viewed my forays whether it be a weekend or a 150 mile death march late winter on snowshoes with a heavy pack or dragging a sled. Ive bailed many a time because things didnt feel right so I have no problem with that. Just want to take what I can from it from an experience perspective, build on it, and if it goes well turn the dial up and off to the next objective. This is by no means a 1 and done or bucket lister for me. Not why I am doing it or do anything for that matter. If this goes well then there will be a next climb, and a next, and a next lol. Im so envious of you all who live out that way. I would give just about anything to have that type of access to that type of terrain. Im more focused on learning and experience than anything though and sometime real world is better than what ya learn in a controlled environment.
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I was under the thought that on the 5 day you get taught crevasse rescue, etc on day 2, 1st is more to see ur gear and a meet & greet during the evening. Then with 2 nights at Muir you either get to summit the night u get there or the next day dependent on weather. Whatever time you are down whether it be day 4 or 5 u use that day for skills. Ive heard a lot of other services there u actually learn on the fly as you climb.
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Just stating some gear. Im pretty covered gear wise. Why the shade towards RMI? Feedback Ive heard about them was 100% positive.
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Yeah, Ive used a filter in sub freezing temps and in all honesty its a pita taking the ceramic element out, putting it in a ziploc, then in a pocket close to your body to keep it from freezing. Why I was just gonna go UV with the All Clear.
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I have a Swift cap already. Maybe will get the thingy that attaches to it for neck protection. Boots... My beloved Lhotses finally died after many years and just didnt see the justification in a resole so picked up a pair of Nepal Cubes that fit very well. Think the last was built around my feet tbh lol. Added SF blues to them but I personally dont want to use them for the trek from Paradise to Muir. I have many pairs of various backpacking/trail boots so may just wear my Scarpa Zodiacs on the plane and rock them the whole trip til I have to dawn heavier footwear. Is there ever a need for a traction aid in Muir snowfield? I have a pair of HS Trail crampons (which are not crampons imo) but again, dont want to tote them just for the sake of carrying them. Keep in mind I am going to be making the slog late July early August. Im reserving my spot the second dates are released so I have no doubt this will be the time frame. I was aware of the fact that "melted snow water" is provided but would there still be need to treat it with UV? I mean do they heat it to the point where they just melt it or do they actually boil which would alleviate the need to treat?
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My layers I currently have are Smartwool NTS250 qtr zip, MH Monkeyman fleece, OR Uberlayer mid, Alpha SV shell, and I am debating on my MH Stretchdown DS which is a 800fp hooded puffy. I may deep 6 the Monkeyman for the puffy Thinking of picking up a hooded sunshirt for Muir. Def open to any suggestions. Bottoms.. Cap midweights, OR cirques, and Alpha AR shells if needed. I think climbing with RMI a transceiver is required. I could be wrong tho. Im here ro learn as much as possible from you all so.
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I think more than gear advice I am looking for any info you all may feel is useful that you may have learned along the way or in your travels up there. What type of pace do the guides run ya at? Obviously I would assume slower above Muir than below. Im considering using my Camelbak All Clear over my pump. I have a pre filter but a little tundra seasoning isnt always a bad thing. Any caveats you all see to this? Is it worth me rocking approach shoes to Muir from Paradise? If so I will just wear my Scarpas. Nalgenes up high but I think a bladder would make sense low... Yeah, Im excited. Been wanting to get into climbing for a long time amd want to learn everything I can. I was a gear tester so anything I get into I study til my eyeballs want to fall out lol. So yeah, Im open to any advice I can get. Oh, here is one. Shuttles from SeaTac? Im staying in Ashford and dont really see a need to leave once I get there so renting a car to sit in a parking lot for 5+ days doesnt make much sense. RMI told me once the 2020 schedule is dropped I can pay at which time they will give me access to chat forums? Thats what I got from the convo lol. I just want to get a jump on it, cross my t's and dot my i's persay. So anything you can provide me is extremely appreciated on my end.
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My pack weight wont be anywhere near 80lbs. I was just pointing out that is what I am use to toting and most likely using slowshoes when I am. Postholing sucks lol. Again, that is for 2 week late winter solo with no resupply. Im looking at max 40lbs to Muir then maybe 25lbs to summit. I am gonna try to get a tent at Muir for the exact reasons you state. If they say none available I may ask if I can drag my Hille Soulo up the ridge. Gear wise there is nothing required that I dont already own in some various form or fashion. Most likely will rent a transceiver, and big puffy because I dont see justification in buying either. Only a few places here in the east that have avalanche potential(Mt Wash, etc.) Ive done some climbing. Will hit Lions Head route on Mt Wash here in the coming winter which I have done many years ago. Ive heard of the circus/congo lines lol. Cant wait.
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So, 30+ year east coast solo backpacker who does more off trail than anything. Mostly I am out late winter. Im weird like that. Won't catch me on trail in summer. Im 42 and work out like a madman. My pack weight for a late winter multi week solo is around 80lbs. (I dont do resupply points) Im not a ul guy(I own 3 Hilleberg tents, heavy durable comfy pack, blah blah blah.) I use my gear and dont baby it. Have done some climbing years back but lets face it the east doesnt have much to prep for Rainier. Ive been on crampons. I own 2 pair(AirTech Steel semis and g20s for gnarlier stuff/full auto)but am taking this as a learning experience as well. Im a sponge when it comes to outdoor related stuff. So I consider myself a noob and always have because no matter your skill set you are always learning something new. I have a ton of gear and years of knowledge on how to use it(was a gear tester.) Wife tells me the mancave looks like a REI lol. I am going to take a stab at Rainier with RMI(5 day in summer of 2020.) Waiting for schedule to drop in September so I can pay them. Im not foolish enough to think I could take this endeavor on my own and dont feel my knowledge level is solid enough to try and jump on a rope team. Not fair to others. I have also on a few occasions made the choice to bail on a trip so I would have no problem making that decision if it comes to it. Im not above that. Its not about the summit for me. Granted I would like to make summit but a lot of whether or not I do is out of my hands. Any suggestions or advice? Most likely staying in Ashford. I could get into the littney of gear I am using but wont pollute this post with all of that unless asked. I guess just any gen info on the DC route from those who have done it. Gonna book for late July to early to mid August. Thanks in advance. Keep on keeping on folks. ***originally posted in climbers section, Im new and clueless so dont yell at me lol***
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I have a core(brushed steel) that Ive had for years. Im not a fan of the newer GPS models because 1st it eats batteries like a madman. 2nd is I am always using maps and compasses. The knowledge is never lost and the batteries never die. As far as the Core goes it tells me all that I need from a wrist gizmo. Its user friendly as far as battery life goes it lasts about a year(I swap a for a new one on my bday every year.) Keeps it simple. The storm alarm can be annoying if out and about. Ive had it go off many a time and was like wth is that lol. I typically leave it on alti so its not singing to me randomly. Dont over think it. ...just my 2 cents. (Also had a ProTrek 2500)