plurpimpin

It took us about 9 hours from lot to summit but that included an hour of my partner playing tiddlywinks with gear on the Reid after a wardrobe/crampon malfunction. The wind also slowed us down alot on the summit ridge once out of the couloir. I think 7 hours would be a very reasonible time for the climb if you keep moving and have decent conditions.

Wow, stout work guys! That's awesome!

We went up Leuthold Sunday, the route was in great shape. The bergshrund was small and easy to get around. We postholed up to thigh deep on the glacier but things firmed up some when we got into the couloir. Postholing up to calf deep here and there in the chute below the hourglass but you could find firm snow for the most part. The wind picked up when we got up above the hourglass and was pretty brutal once we got up on the summit ridge. I would estimate it was in the ballpark of 50mph so we ran up the ridge and then headed down old chute as quickly as we could. We each had a single axe and at no point did I see any need for a second tool. We felt totally comfortable the whole way up. Icefall wasn't too bad, there was lots of small stuff coming down - marble to golf ball sized with an occasional baseball. In all a really fun route and I'd like to go do it again.

Awesome guys, thanks for the beta. Won't worry about bringing a 2nd tool, you guys confirmed my suspicions. I was only wondering from the abundance of 2nd tools I've seen in trip reports. I feel like alot of people break out tech tools way more than necessary... like the guy I saw a few weeks ago heading up the pearly gates swinging a pair of tools that then got passed by a dog. Hopefully snow on the Reid won't be too much of a hassle since we'll try to keep our skis on until the base of the couloir.

Looking at climbing Leuthold Couloir on Hood this weekend and was wondering if anyone has been up that way lately? Any beta on the conditions? Saw that a guy on Turns all Year tried Reid Headwall back on Tuesday but got turned around because of post holing in waist deep snow. Hoping that will have consolidated by this weekend but means plenty of snow in the couloir. Mostly debating whether or not to bother with a 2nd tool. Any advise? First time up this route.

Awesome! Thank you for the reply! The only recentish beta I've been able to find was someone on summitpost that said it was impassable due to crevasses in July... I was alittle skeptical of that so it's good to hear from someone else. We're definitely gonna head up and give it a shot this weekend. Worst case if it's too open we'll skirt around the glacier up to the saddle but I think we'll be able to find a way. From what I've seen in pics it looks like the toe of the glacier gets pretty nasty late season but the ridge that the climbing route follows stays pretty decent (at least in some videos I found from last september which was a lower snow year). I figure getting onto the glacier might be the crux of the whole climb.

Anybody been up there lately? Heading up this weekend, any recent beta would be appreciated. Mostly curious how open the glacier is.

Anybody been up or around the Hayden Glacier lately? Looking to take some friends out to practice some crevasse rescue and glacier travel next weekend. Also gonna try to tag the summit. Any recent Beta?

Anybody been up Jeff lately? I am planning to try the South Ridge route sometime in the next week or two and was looking for some recent beta. Most of the info from this season has been from July and Early August so I was hoping for some more up to date info. The inevitable how's the traverse look? Is there much snow left up high? Any other useful info would be greatly appreciated.