Priti
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Posts posted by Priti
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Charakusa, Pakistan Summer 2023
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Wow, the rock fall from the other climbers sounds horrific! It was awesome to meet you out there! Mega congrats, it wasn't an easy year for everyone else at least
Jeff and I saw Serge and Marie out there this year again (no luck for them again). Thanks for the tip on Chris Tomer, we used his weather again this year, although he couldn't magically create good weather. Liason officer Zishan was a boss, cool dude! Hope to see you around the PNW!
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Nice Eric!! Thanks for the detailed write up!
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Here’s some photos from when Andreea, Nick and I climbed Steppenwolfe.
Should have climbed the pillar but didn’t for various reasons, including uncertainty on the stability of the ice.
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Climbed Icy BC and Deeping Wall on Sunday, both pretty picked out but all there. Dale's Route was pretty good and not picked out too.
Icy BC in Standard conditions
Deeping Wall
Deeping wall
Dales Route
Rambles Center
Rambles Left and Center were in as well. I've heard that Loose Lady is in, but thin and/or delaminating at the top (report from Friday)-
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On Friday Feb 17th, 2023, Tom Beirne and I skinned out to Snow Lake in snowy weather. Andreea Gabor was supposed to be with us, but unfortunately she was sick, otherwise she would have been with us! I started from the car at 5:45 AM and reached the Slot Machine base around 8:20 am. We saw two other skiers out there, enjoying the fresh snow, taking the N Slopes of Chair Peak.
The line we were looking at starts to climbers right of the Slot Machine, climbing two pitches to a snow ledge that can be connected to the base of the ice climbing on Slot Machine. Tom had made an attempt on the line a couple weeks ago, in worse conditions, and he knew the first pitch had a good screw belay, albeit a hanging one.
The base of the ice climbing is up a steep snowy couloir, which we skinned up as far as we could to avoid wallowing in chest deep snow. It was snowing pretty heavily. Tom offered me any pitch but I asked Tom to lead both the first pitch and the second pitch. The second pitch was the hard mixed crux, and I didn’t want to sit a double belay on a hanging ice anchor and get cold. Instead we would both belay shorter time periods to keep moving.
Tom dug a trench up the snow to the base of the ice, traversing far left to avoid the randkluft/rimaye/moat that was about 2 feet under the snow, and pretty darn deep.
When he got to the ice, he cruised up, finding solid placements in the ice under the snow. Typical PNW, the ice was kind of funky and harder than it looked.
He build a belay with three bomber screws under the roof and brought me up. I raced up as fast as I could, knowing we were already running low in time, despite our 3:30 AM departure from Seattle. I didn’t even bother taking off my belay puffy or belay gloves. I was making tons of moves I’ve never do on lead, trusting the snicey sticks, but it was effective, I guess.
Tom took over again for the next pitch, that started with a couple inch-thick ice smear exiting the roof on the right. It looked like the next belay would be fairly close at a big tree. Tom made some mixed moves, finding the ice that was solid, but the feet kept disappearing as they fell off with the snow.
As always, it was steeper and trickier that it appeared. An apparently thick spot of ice provided bottomed-out stubby protection, and then some mixed climbing to the tree.
The tree was directly to the right, but appeared to have died in all of the places that were reachable. It had the effect of a bunch of downward sloping fragile spikes barring access and preventing upward movement, instead of providing any protection. Tom hammered in an angle, and wished we had brought the lost arrows that we discarded in the car. Then he placed a .5 and and a pink tricam followed by a magnificent knife blade piton that I was unable to retrieve (so it’s still there!). There was another mini roof to pull around, after getting some dirt sticks and weaving through the tree roots. Luckily there was a nice bit of ice pouring around to the left, and it make it possible to pull around and protect with a very tight .75.
As I was belaying in the protected roof alcove, bunches of snow, ice and dirt kept pouring down. We had radios, so I buckled down when I heard the tree was not a belay option. Then needles, twigs and branches started raining down. I was very glad I didn’t lead that pitch, despite the fact that it looked like it would be simple and icy at first glance.
Past the tree was about 15m of deep, steep snow wallowing to the next tree belay. We were both slightly concerned about the slope stability, and wallow factor when we analyzed it from the ground, but on inspection of a side view of the slope, it looked climbable, while we also determined it is not accessible from the top, or by climbing around.
Tom finally burrowed through the snow slope to the top and I was so cold by that point, I said I might have to turn around. He also was soaked and cold at this point, so instead of wallowing across to Slot Machine (where we would have to rappel the adjacent couloir and then wallow back up to our gear cache) we decided to rappel.
We rappelled from the tree, leaving cord and a biner, and then made a naked V-Thread under the roof, making sure to pull it quickly so the rope didn’t get frozen in the wet ice.
Back on the ground, the sun poked out a teased us for the first time all day. But knowing that we were running out of time and didn’t want to ski down in the dark, we abandoned the idea of climbing my project, the ice pillar next to Steppenwolfe.
Slot Machine would have been cool to climb, although it is probably spicier than it looks.
Fantastic day out there, thanks for the full on adventure out there, in worse weather than I ever go out in. Your stoke kept us going, if not keeping us warm.
We have discussed the rating, and it is hard to rate things in WA because things are never in good conditions and probably this will not be in as good condition again. Steepness does not indicate the level of scrappy-ness or commitment you need.
We gave Gambler’s Fallacy a WI4+ M6+ (protects well) Steep snow (X, no pro, would whip the whole pitch), 65 meters, 2 pitches.
Gear:
Note: Lost Arrow should replace small angle, making much better placement
(not pictured: the knifeblade I left in place. I tried to take it out, but a mini rock roof prevented hitting it up and down. Please re-hammer it to ensure it is secure before using)
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Megaladon Ridge provided as much hiking and scrambling as one could dream of, interspersed with 4-8 pitches of roped climbing, with some dubious rock quality. I’d give it a rating of 5.9, Loose-3/5, 2.5/5 stars. I noticed the rock was more loose but blocky on the climber's left of the ridge, and more solid but steep on the right. Staying on the ridge generally led to a decent downclimb, not a cliff, so that was the best option. Most of the big blocky-tower gendarmes were easy to skirt.
The round trip is over 40 miles, and as much as I wanted to do it in three days, getting a permit had us at the trailhead at 10:30 on Saturday. It was a joy to get bored of the hundreds of meters of scrambling and easy free soloing.
The area is so gorgeous and the perfect weather lured us into spending more than an hour by the river, enjoying the peace and let time expand and relaxing into the sounds of the burbling river and singing birds.I def didn't want to bring the stove, but I guess it was reassuring if we actually got terribly cold or HAD to melt snow. The warm meals were nice, and coffee in the morning.
The Petzl Altitude harness was esp nice b/c it sits well under the pack straps, and I have gear loops on my pack, so the lack of them on the harness is fine!
We brought the Beal Escaper, and debated between a 50m and 60m rope. The first rappel down the descent would have not made it with only a doubled over 50m rope. Careful about pulling rocks down on yourself at that rappel!
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Such a great outing in an beautiful area with the best partner! Amazing write up!!
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4 hours ago, Rad said:
Holy wow! Love how you provide so much beta so others might follow in your footsteps.
What's hard for many to appreciate who haven't climbed in the Pickets is that the rock quality is often questionable, at least the parts I've seen. If we found a section of totally solid rock with a nice crack (e.g. E Ridge Inspiration) it was cause for celebration. More often, it's compact, with relatively few opportunities for pro, or shattered and full of questionable holds. How was the rock on this line?
This is so true! The rock varied from place to place. Some spots were compact with little pro (getting on to ridge proper) some were loose (tower 1/2) some were solid but covered in lichen and gritty disintegrating rock (tower3) and some was good and blocky but still questionable in places! Definitely need to have experience with Rock Quality to be a good judge. I think if there was a rating for looseness this would get a L3/4 out of L5
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On 4/14/2020 at 9:39 AM, Alex said:
Thanks for putting so much effort into the TR of this classic. Did you really take a drone up the route??
It was a little nerve-wracking to catch the drone again on the tiny ledges! Hadn't done it before, but successfully didn't drop it off the cliff.
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We are stuck in Chamonix until July, at least. At least the views are great, while we practice our French and home cooking!
Can't believe this is "Best of CC" already!
Thanks!
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Previous Fitz Roy trip report:
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On 8/25/2019 at 6:07 PM, JasonG said:
An incredible amount of work in that beta, wow! I have to say that I'm surprised that you ran into another party on it, I guess the Bugs really are getting that busy now?
I was so surprised to see other people on it too! I thought we would be totally alone, not two other parties on route! I think maybe more people get on it than I thought.
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Ward Robinson and Jim Walseth did the first ascent of this route.
“On the third day cigarettes and coffee were all we had left. On the summit ridge we found snow patches and we brewed up a couple of times to keep ourselves going. During one such break we named the route All Along the Watchtower. For the record, it's the Jimi Hendrix version” - Jim
Kennan Harvey did the first free ascent of the route.
“Not only was the traverse virtually featureless, it was wet. Determined to climb it free, Harvey started by aiding across the sweeping arch, using his tee shirt and chalk ball to dry key footholds. Once the pitch was “prepared,” he lowered back to the beginning for a free attempt. He almost got through the crux on his first try, but fell when a small nubbin broke. He succeeded- just barely - on his third try, “grunting and thrutching” the entire way.” - Fifty Favorite Climbs
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Nice report! I want to tag Sherpa Balanced Rock
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Thanks to Jenny Abegg and Sarah Hart for the amazing beta sheet! Thanks to Mark Westman for great beta! Thanks to Tim Banfield for the amazing aerial shots of the Howser towers. It was a pleasure to get to climb such an incredible route, with great company (Dane, Allie who we met on route and my great partner Jeff).I'm thankful for the wonderful weather, and an understanding team at work.
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It can't be said enough: Jeff and I are so blessed, and so thankful that we got to climb Fitz Roy!
Nothing is ever guaranteed, and certainly not alpine climbing in the Fitz Roy range. Everything kept falling into place! And it was spectacular!!!! 🙏
🤘😍
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.Timeline:
Thursday: Planning for a climb on Mt Hood. Jeff calls from working remotely in Charleston. Let's go to Patagonia!
Friday: Asked for time off work. Plane tickets look reasonable. Wait, where are our passports? We bought tickets anyways.
Saturday: Jeff arrives in Seattle. So do our passports. We buy some more gear! (and pack)
Sunday: Planes. Work from plane
Monday: Planes and working remotely from BA, AR
Tuesday: Plane to El Calafate, bus to El Chalten, say hi to MF Seba, call in to work meetings and grab a bite with Scott, Sami, and Lauri
Wednesday: Hike up to Lago de Los Tres to check out conditions. They are cold, wet and windy. Okay!
Thursday: Hike from El Chalten to Paso Superior and camp
Friday: Approach to La Brecha and camp. The rock looks a bit wet, but the weather is great!
Saturday: Climb! all day. all night. some wetness, some ice, but it's okay
Sunday: sit for an hour and watch the sunrise on the summit of Fitz Roy. Rappel
Sunday night: hike all the way back to El Chalten. No sleep
Monday morning: Catch our shuttle to the airport with 20 minutes to spare. Finally sleep on the shuttle
Monday: Fly out, work from plane
Tuesday: Arrive in Seattle! (go to work)
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Here’s a couple photos from the weekend
Bergschrund
C8CB0840-F52D-4CC4-AA6A-AD38B25DB30D.MOV
Summit!
we only pulled out the rope for the last ice step. I got deluged with spin drift! 🤣🤣🤣
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Nice, good work! Thanks for sharing
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Gorgeous photos! What a place, what a peak! Thanks for the TR!
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On 8/31/2018 at 6:37 PM, wayne said:
I had hoped that this climb would get into the minds of people here, it was so deserving, worthy, and has all of the elements of true, and lasting adventure.
East Twin Needle, Himmelgeisterhorn and Ottohorn are some of the most enjoyable climbing I've done any where! Doing the traverse from Terror to Ottohorn would be such a good line.
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Trip: Pasayten Wilderness - Cathedral and Amphitheater - SE Buttress of Cathedral Peak and Finger of Fatwa on Middle Finger Buttress on Amphitheatre Mountain
Trip Date: 08/31/2018
Trip Report:Ethan and I climbed the classic SE Buttress (5.10a) on Cathedral Peak on Saturday Sept 1st and The Finger of Fatwa (5.11c) on the Middle Finger Buttress on Amphitheatre Mountain on Sept 2nd. The SE buttress was super enjoyable, following an obvious aesthetic line up the peak, on beautiful, sunny rock. One other party was in front of us, and let us pass at the headwall.
The Finger of Fatwa follows a striking line, up a steep splitter .5” crack and traversing a set of two wild left-pointing roofs. I'm curious who else has climbed it since 2011 when Scott Bennett and Blake Herrington put it up. I don’t think this route gets much attention, judging by the amount of moss. But it should get done more! It’s so cool!
We didn't get the red-point, but if we cleaned it up a bit, I think it would go next time!
Belay under the roof
Pulling the roof:
A little bit of bouldering capped the trip!
The weather was questionable on Saturday, but cleared up around 10am. We hiked out in a light snow on Monday, that cleared up to blistering heat by the time we reached the trailhead.
Saturday sunset:
Sunday sunset:
Gear Notes:
Wires, Doubles from tips to #2, single #3, #4Coffee every damn morning!
Approach Notes:
8-10 hours approach via Andrew's Creek Trailhead... From Upper Cathedral lake, a 15-45 minutes approach
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K7 Central - 2023 Trip Report
in The rest of the US and International.
Posted · Edited by Priti
I'm not sure it was a sundog, it was just a rainbow I guess from ice crystals in the air! Pretty unreal!
The next day there was another wild optical solar thing