maurop

If you are going to spend much time dealing with zip lines or other cables, one of these is worth it. Do you know if anyone's used it with success on the cable across the river? It looks like this pulley will fit a 13mm rope max, the lower cable looked like it was about 30-35mm. Canoe is definitely more appealing for the cheapo way to go. Then there's the chopper.

Not really wanting to put in the effort to go for a ski, or a tour in the rain, I scoped out the LLW access for some future endeavours up there. Followed McLane's guidebook, which was very useful and accurate. The gate was closed, so I had to park on a little side road nearby, about 100m further up the paved road. I ran into Dan and Shirley (I think that's her name), and while they said I was ok to park on Squamish Nation land, that next time I should check with their uncle. Anyone have any other recent info on this? Anyways, I did the tyrolean across the river, and then found the trail. The tyrolean was burly and fun, but not worth the $10 biner it's cost me, and all the faffing around. The gate had fused shut kinda, and I spent a good half hour trying to open it. Canoe would probably be the best choice. This does mean either asking for an open gate, portaging your gear and canoe to the cable tower and then upstream a few hundred meters, or starting way upstream and paddling down river. If paddling, I think some basic river paddling skills would be good. The trail itself is looking rough in spots, but full value adventure for an 8 hour day. I'm looking forward to logging some good routes up in this area in the months to come.

I was up at rambles center yesterday, with decent conditions lower down from an inversion. Higher up it was thinner and dripping, and still looked like it was forming up. The forecast doesn't look promising for the weekend.

Totally missed that cam on the website. Cheers.

Anyone been into Nesakwatch Creek lately? Is the road snow free, and if so, how high is it possible to drive?

I'd agree with most of what people have said. I've taught myself to climb trad, and have spent 2 years doing so. I don't have the cash to hire a guide, but climbing with better partners is key. A lot of technique can go into one day in the alpine. My suggestion, like others have said, is find a partner about your level, and get lots of routes in. Read and re-read freedom and other "manuals", immerse yourself in different climbing literature, read about accidents, read about successes, and try and learn from them. When you can't get into the alpine, try and practice techniques in easily accessed areas. Push yourself when conditions are safe, and stay conservative when they're not. Be a proficient, strong climber in all terrain, not just 5th class. Don't depend on the rope, it's not always as safe as you imagine and impractical on certain terrain. Once in a while, guides are a good idea, they can give you useful tips gleaned from many trips, which you probably won't pickup in a useful way in an intensive week long course. The biggest challenge for me is the mental side of mountaineering, overcoming irrational fears. Once you have a solid foundation in the basics for a variety of techniques, this will become the biggest obstacle. A 5.7 alpine route can still be challenging with all the right techniques, but the wrong head. Question everything, think it through with a straight head, and stay stoked. Sorry for the long post.

I'm looking for a climbing partner for a winter climb in SW BC for the dates in the subject. I've got a good base of rock climbing experience, some experience on technical alpine routes, but limited winter climbing experience. I've got my AST-1 and have a full season of ski touring under my belt, so I have a decent understanding of avalanche risk. I'm open to route suggestions, although I have some ideas of what might be fun. I'm game for ice/mixed climbing as well. Leave a message if you're interested! Cheers, Mauro

I don't wanna beat up on you too badly, but the FWA is reported on page 265 of Fairley's guide. Not still in print, I realize, but readily available for research. March 5, 1978: D. Serl with Greg Yavorsky and John Wittmayer. Google didn't yield much, I thought for sure someone here would know. Thanks for all the info guys! Nesakwatch has been an area I've been meaning to check, I've heard way too many good things to ignore it for much longer. I'm pretty keen to get out, I'm just waiting for the right timing. The weekend warrior thing is pretty brutal. Hopefully, I'll have a TR soon. Would love to see some pics from climbing in the Tantalus!

Hey G-Spotter, where's the typical winter snowline in this area? Would the Rexford area be the same story in terms of what sounds like a horrendous approach through alder? I'm leading 5.9/10a in summer, but I've only recently started leading them. I'm good on anything that's 5.7/5.8. West lion looks good (5.4 ish?), if you have any beta, that would be awesome. Thanks!

Not too sure.... I was told it was a good intro to winter climbing....but it looks like it might be more 3rd/4th class. In Beckey, he mentions the traverse is good, but mainly 3rd/4th. I lead 5.7 with ease, so I was thinking a low to mid 5th class day would be more interesting.... I've never been in this area, so I'm not sure how the route shapes up though in terms of exposure and objective hazards.

Has anyone ever done Crossover Peak in winter? Is it a worthy first winter objective? I haven't been able to find much on it.

Those look like some cool lines... What do they both go at, and what's the descent like off Colfax? Walk-offs?

Sweet, thanks for the help. Not sure if I'll be doing it soon now, with new snow on the way the glaciers will be a crapshoot.

Hi all, just wondering if besides McLane, if there's any info around on Mount Redoubt? I'm guessing Beckey would have something, but if there's at least any route/photo overlays, that would be awesome.

Hi guys, I'm looking for a partner for the weekend of Sept 6 or 7, to do an alpine trip. I can lead 5.7 comfortable in the alpine, I have decent rope management skills, decent route finding, and can drive to meet up. I'm in Vancouver, BC, and looking to do something local (sea to sky, Fraser valley area). Send a PM if you want to team up! cheers, Mauro