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APE

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Posts posted by APE


  1. Anyone have a recent smoke conditions report? Especially N Pickets or Boston Basin at elevations between "road" and "tops of things"?

    Bellingham has been mostly clear, Methow is obviously a mess. The line has to be somewhere between the two....


  2. Howdy. I moved up to Bellingham in May. Had a pretty bad ankle sprain in late March, plus way too much time at a desk in 2018 + 2019. Looking for partners for fun, easy-moderate stuff while I get back into it. I'm fond of suffer fests but probably not fit enough for one at the moment.

    Rock, alpine, ice, whatever. All good (except pad sniffing, not into that). Also my screwed up ankle probably can't handle any cracks for another month or two.

    DM me if you want to do something fun or stupid but not too hard.


  3. Agreed about the buckle on the Sirocco. It gets clogged, and this seems to reduce the security of the clasp. The buckle is also really flimsy, and I had to replace it recently.

     

    That said, I still love the thing. It's taken some direct hits from rock and ice, and its still in great condition.


  4. We got on it Saturday as well. Approach is still fine without snowshoes (of course we still carried them -- d'oh!), especially making use of the trail that descends from the Narada Falls parking lot.

     

    I chickened out on leading around the side of the chockstone, which was almost entirely dry. So we squeezed awkwardly through.

     

    montynet: if you were the party of three which started the first pitch as a party of two came up behind (that was us), and which mentioned "long legs and gumption", then you were on the Zipper.


  5. I climbed the route on Saturday, and it's in great condition. Bridges were solid. Conditions are late summer / early fall, so expect bare ice on the lower part of the glacier. There were only two notable objective hazards: we saw a car-sized chunk of ice calve off the bottom of the Coleman while we were getting on the glacier around 3-something am, and there is a large chunk of ice below Colfax that may not be long for this world. In the photo, it's the smaller and lower of the two striped portions above the icefall / debris field. The current boot track passes through the bottom of the debris field.

     

    Low on the route, we took a route a little less circuitous than it sounds like Nate G did. There are several viable options up there right now. Message me if you want a GPS track.

     

    20150718_113530.jpg


  6. I circum-skied the lake with two friends Friday 1/2 and Saturday 1/3. A few inches of powder in places, some wind crust and little bit of ice in others. We had a bit of snow sticking because it was up near 40 F. We only had to walk on asphalt for about 0.1mi (at a view point just up the hill clockwise from the Wineglass).

     

    I think we were the first group to start+finish in 2015 (though neither the first to start nor the first to finish).

     

    Conditions are great right now -- get at it!

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