Mugsy

Four pieces, all clove hitched, they all pulled. excerpt ""The team was leading with two 9mm ropes, and both climbers were properly tied to both ropes. Dunwiddie was equipped as leader, with each of the two ropes passing through Eldridge's belay device (an ATC). About 25 feet of each lead rope separated the two climbers; no lead protection was found on either rope. Their anchor-which appears to have pulled in its entirety during the accident-consisted of the following. One 3/8-inch Alien and one #4 Black Diamond Stopper were clove-hitched together to one of the lead ropes approximately three feet from Eldridge's tie-in point. Two double-stem Camalots, .5 and .75, were each independently clove-hitched about a foot and a half apart on the other lead rope with 15 inches separating the lower piece from Eldridge's tie-in point. There was no evidence that bolts or other fixed protection were involved in the anchor. All of the anchor pieces were severely damaged, though it is impossible to know whether the damage occurred when they were pulled out or during the fall and final impact. Nevertheless, the two Camalots were each bent in a similar way suggestive of a severe downward force after being placed in a vertical crack."" Are you implying their lack of multiple cordelettes and subsequent use of clove hitches led to the failure?

Bump

Lost a red c4 today somewhere on Snowcreek. It has matching ID marks under the trigger & on the head in between the lobes. If returned, beers are on me!

1. Put a cam in close to you, clove hitch the rope to its racking biner. 2. Put another piece in a little further away, clove hitch the rope to it. 3. If you need another piece, put it in now, and clove to it. 4. Pull up rope, slap your [belay device of choice] on, and yell "On belay _" *Climber ascends to belay, then continues to lead the next pitch. He yells down "I'm anchored _" 5. Start disassembling your anchor to whatever you feel comfortable with. 6. You hear "On belay _" from above. 7. Drop the last clove hitch or 2, rack those cam(s), and GO! How could a cordelette be faster than that? Consider the time it takes to de-rack and re-rack a cordelette. It takes me 2-3 seconds to whip up a clove hitch, and 1-2s to later pull it off the biner. My 18' 7mm ACR cordelette weighs in around 300g with an ultralight locker. That's about the same weight as 5 Metolius TCUs, or a #4 Camalot C4. I usually still have a variety of biners, a 60cm or two, and sometimes a 120cm sling at the top; if I plan on switching the belay over, they come into play.

c4 is sold

A. #4 Camalot c4 (New with tags) - SOLD B. ~28ft. 6mm accessory cord (New) - $10 C. 2x DMM 240cm Dyneema sling/cordelette (New with tags) - $20/each only 1 left D. 5x 25cm nylon dogbones (Lightly used) - $20 E. Petzl Attache 3d (Light use in anchors, good condition) - $12 F. Black Diamond Vaporlock (very light use) - $10 G. Petzl William (very light use) - $10 H. Omega Pacific Dirtbag draw (very light use) - $7 I. Black Diamond Neutrino (very light use) - $4 J. Mammut Moses (maybe never used?) - $5 K. Black Diamond Hotwire (very light use) - $4 L. DMM Torque Nut set (Used for 1/2 season, no falls) - $50 *the lockers, OP qd, and DMM torque nuts have a small identifier mark (elmer's paint pen - should not be hard to remove) hidden on them.

pm sent, I will take the gold c4.

The weather has been great out there. Were you drivin' the red Fit by chance?

The thread below yours is titled "Snowshoe Recommendations" http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1055330/gonew/1/Snowshoe_Recommendations

pm sent on the c4s

I'll take it. Pm sent.

Looking at where the biner broke, it appears that it was an open gate failure. If the gate was closed, there would likely be some stretching before it broke. The gate may have rubbed against something or experienced the infamous solid gate "gate flutter" while being loaded.

pm sent on c4

PM sent on slings and nut tool

email sent. I will take the gold c4