lifewithcare

Trip: Mt Hood - South - Hogsback/Old Chute Date: 5/24/2014 Trip Report: Given the clouds & downpours the day before and rapidly changing forecast we weren't sure how conditions would be for a summit bid. We were surprisingly pleased. Started from the lot at 1:30am, the snow was firm and there were so many people already ahead of us that there were boot tracks to step in much of the way to the top of the Palmer. We put our crampons on at that point & began hiking with Axes as well. Snow was absolutely perfect for cramponing. Just below the Hogsback there was a flat spot where we roped up. Due to the warm temps and size of the bergschrund we figured we would head up the old chutes, and that is exactly where the most established route was. There were quite a few people ahead of us, and at the top of the chute we climbed there many climbers not making progress & blocking the way. Frustrating, but holiday weekend climbing at its best I suppose. Upper route was definitely steep & icy. [img:left]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-amTCLD0IPQE/U4ZiD7bfamI/AAAAAAAAFgs/KVm4RHMfu24/w816-h612-no/IMG_2004.JPG[/img] Once above the chute there was a narrow exposed traverse over to the summit that was clogged with traffic. We skirted past most of the people, and made the summit around 8:30am. It was windy but not near as windy as we had expected. Snapped a few pics and rested a bit before starting the trek back down. [/img] Decided to go down a different chute then we had climbed up, due to the numerous amounts of people (once again) standing, roped together, and not moving. Down climbed the chute and then traversed back towards the hogsback. At that point we were approached by a man on his phone behind us talking about a man in his group that fell. Since my boyfriend is an EMT we asked a few questions and headed down to the hogsback to assist with the rescue. Portland Mountain Rescue was on the scene shortly after and started asking for more people to assist in the rescue effort. It turned out, due to the extent of the climber's injuries, extreme caution was needed to get him out of the fumarole/crevasse. The amount of climbers that volunteered with the effort, handed over ropes, pickets, and helped out was absolutely amazing . One guy even removed the bindings from his snowboard in case PMR needed to use it for spinal immobilization. I'm not sure what time the climber was finally lifted out, but it was at least 3 hours later. We headed down sometime after that. Snow was soft & slushy but we were able to glissade for much of it...AWESOME!! On the way down we saw the Blackhawk helicopter come in to airlift the man off the mountain. The entire operation was incredible. Hit the parking lot around 2:30pm and it was full of news reporters. We managed to avoid being interviewed, but being up there when such an accident occurs definitely reminds us that climbing is a dangerous sport. No matter how much experience one has or how perfect the conditions seem, you can never be too careful. Gear Notes: Rope, ice axes, crampons, helmets. (Not used: 2 pickets each & 2 screws each. Prussiks, pulleys, & crevasse rescue gear.) [img:left]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-01NmXJhX0WA/U4ZiE6E18GI/AAAAAAAAFg0/OLAK3a2NJP8/w816-h612-no/IMG_2020.JPG[/img]

Awesome report. Such a great read. I saw your link to your "Gear List", but unfortunately Zoho viewer is no longer. Do you think you could post it again, or PM me with the list? Id greatly appreciate it! And...those photos are seriously PHENOMENAL. =)

Hey mountainmatt... just curious what time of year this was. I see the date you posted...but when did you actually summit? thanks!

Great trip report ~ thanks for sharing. Enjoyed the pictures too...though it seems they never quite do justice - especially portraying how steep that climb actually is. Glad you decided to wake up and get after it - I'd have thought the exact same thing (knowing I'd kick myself later if I didn't make an attempt). Way to go!

hi Claire! my name is Carrie and I'd love to join your group and climb Mt adams. Curious if you would consider doing it in 2 days...hiking up 3 hours friday and then summitting earlier on Saturday after camping at Lunch Counter? I have a wedding at 7pm the night of the 28th...and I'd really like to be able to do both. Please - let me know either way! Thanks! lifewithcare@gmail.com 574-210-0991

hi there! i was thinking about going backpacking in the goat rocks area this weekend.... perhaps we could connect? I'm in portland area too! carrie lifewithcare@gmail.com

Pm Sent

Hi senior_cush! Did you ever make it out to Eldorado? It is on my to-do list and was curious about the current conditions. My climbing plans for this weekend fell through, but the forecasts don't look great. Would love to hear about your climb if you went - and any details on current conditions! Thanks! Carrie

Hi! I'd love to be a part of this group as well. I've done Hood, St Helens, and a bunch of other lesser known peaks but I have a bucket list of summits I'd like to do before I move to Colorado in the fall. I have experience backcountry skiing as well, and have taken AIARE 1 and have all the gear. My schedule is quite flexible and although I live in Portland, I'm willing to make the trek north any day. =) Carrie lifewithcare@gmail.com

email sent. =)

Hey Kyle...I just finished BCEP as well. I'd love to hook up for a climb or two...and have a fairly flexible schedule. =) I've done Hood and Helens...planning on doing Mt Daniel, Ellinor, and Unicorn Peak for sure...would love to hit Adams and South Sister! I'm open to others as well. Carrie lifewithcare@gmail.com