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B Deleted_Beck

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Posts posted by B Deleted_Beck

  1. Howdy

     

    Long story short... In trying to upgrade my boot arsenal this year, I ended up with three pairs of technical boots- Primes, Extremes, and Evo Ss.

     

    I feel like one of the new boots I have could perform the function of all three... none of these boots strikes me as particularly warm (not warm enough for 3 days on Rainier in the dead of winter, anyway), and while the Extrems and Primes are both great ice boots in their own right, I just don't think I'm experienced enough to really notice a difference between the two- unless one is warmer than the other?

     

    So basically I think I need to keep the most versatile ice/mixed boot, sell the other two and buy a pair of something really warm... Spantiks maybe? Hopefully something less expensive, but I just don't see myself lugging plastics again.

     

    Thoughts? What's going to cover the bases best? Really hoping to do some hard mixed lines this winter, as well as try to get on some big ice on Rainier. There's also a strong possibility of doing some peaks in Alberta early this spring..

     

    Thanks

     

    -Ben

  2. Super jelly. I was sick last weekend, or I would have been hitting the shit hard. Now it'll be another 5 years, weeks, or days... a fucking eternity, whatever it is.

     

    Enough about me, though... Which exit did you take? Did you guys take the right chute, instead of cutting left at the top? Looks like you topped out on the knife edge?

  3. Shipping $5 for all items, will combine.. 'cept dem boots.

     

    Wired Hexes, 4-9 - $35 SPF

     

    BD U-Stem .5 - $25 SOLD

    BD U-Stem .75 - $25 SOLD

     

    Powercam - 8 - $25 SOLD

    Powercam - 3 - $25 SOLD

     

    TCU smooth lobe - 3 - $20 SOLD

     

    17 assorted BD solid gates and 14 Hotwires SOLD - $3 ALL SOLDeach

     

    Complete set of BD Stoppers - 4-13 - $40 SOLD

     

    Scarpa Mirage Boots - No insoles - size 43 - $30 SOLD

     

    100_4213.JPG100_4212.JPG100_4211.JPG100_4216.JPG100_4215.JPG100_4214.JPG100_4221.JPG100_4219.JPG

  4. hey ben (or anyone else with a cilo pack)

     

    how was it adjusting those straps? I ended up with a CCW, but have looked at the cilo packs at the feathered friends store and also wondered if the straps were going to be a PITA to adjust with gloves on. I could barely get them clipped in and out with my bare hands but wondered if it was just because I sucked at it. The guys in the store told me you were supposed to dial your system in before you went out, but that seemed to defeat the purpose of an adjustable system. What's the point of being able to adjust and customize the straps, if you can only do it while sitting on your ass inside??

     

    You can adjust it in the field. It's obviously a lot easier to get it all dialed in at home, but part of the beauty is being able to totally swap configurations if you need to, or anything in between.

     

    Adjusting the straps from eye to eye is not that hard or confusing, with a little practice. The important part is remembering which way to orient the triglide so that it will cinch on the eye- if you don't have the tail end tucked into the eye, it won't stay compressed.

     

    Loosening the compression straps is the biggest pain... no a big deal above freezing, in the daylight, on level ground, without gloves on. But change any of those, and it can become a pretty ridiculous chore, for what it is. In my experience, needing two straps at the top fully compressed to keep the stay away from my helmet (or even just my bare head, for that matter), and having to loosen these two straps to access the pack is the biggest problem I've had.

     

    If Cilo coudl figure out how to improve the function of the straps, this pack would be way more useful.

  5. I've been literally living out of my Cilo 45 Worksack for the last 6 or 7 weeks, working, hiking and climbing in central Oregon. In conclusion...

     

    The Cilo 45 Worksack is a super technical pack, and it's best use is as a super-technical climbing pack. Properly adjusted, it rides and climbs REALLY well, and handles loads all across the spectrum. I've hiked with it stuffed to around 65L and probably 40lbs, no problems...

     

    BUT

     

    It's NOT a good pack for daily/day-to-day/cragging/general fun climbing use, as I think somebody said somewhere above. It's a fucking pain in the ass. If you don't take the time to properly compress and adjust the pack, it rides terrible and gets in the way. The taking-the-time part is the pain in the ass- it requires constant adjustment. If you have less than 40L in the pack, you must use straps on the top eyes to pull the frame sheet away from your helmet. If you take something out of the pack, you need to decompress the compression straps to be able to dig through your stuff, which requires recompressing and, if you took something bigger than a pair of gloves out, readjust the strap ratios to keep the stay away from your helmet and ensure the pack rides tight. And the straps are not easy to adjust, and almost impossible to adjust with gloves on- I learned just how lame that is last weekend, as I desperately tried to dig my belay jacket out in -10ish with wind-chill.

     

    I haven't yet figured out a way to carry more than about 20lbs in the pack without the frame sheet, as it just wants to fold up on your back when you strap it down tight enough to climb with, so I've been stuck with the sheet/stay so far. I'm seriously considering taking off 6" or so from the sheet- I've never been so aggravated with a pack than scratching halfway up a pitch looking for my next protection, and even holds, for that matter, and not being able to lift my head higher than eye-level. RAGE

     

    etc.

     

    Totally worth it if I were doing some huge FA on some huge line and absolutely must have the tightest, best riding pack. NOT fun for any kind of general use, however.

     

    ---

     

    So.. for those of you with one... Is the 30L Worksack less of a pain in the ass? It MUST be. I don't need all this extra space to have to compress, for my "overnight" pack. Deadbird just got back to me and offered me any pack they carry for 50% off, as a concession for not being able to fix my old pack.. I'm thinking about getting a 30L Worksack, and maybe one of the bigger Nozones for multi-day trips...

     

    All the input it super appreciated, folks. This board is a great resource. Friends and climbing partners are a good source, but CC is a force-multiplier, when you want a broad range of opinions and perspectives.

  6. If I happen across your gear, I'm keeping the TC Pros.... but I'll make sure you get the rest back. :-P

     

    Kidding, obviously. Sorry for the luck, bro... this seems to be happening with rapidly increasing frequency lately. Do the tweekers have some new avenue for fencing this shit now or something?

  7. 100_4185.jpg

     

    Some stuff has sold...

     

    Still available:

     

    Camalots:

    2 - $30

    1 - $30

    .75 -$30

    .75 U stem - $25

    .5 U stem - $25

     

    Powercams:

    8 - $25

    3 - $25

     

    TCUs:

    3 - smooth lobe - $25

     

    SMC pons - $FREE

     

    Everything's available for local meetup in P-Town, but I have pretty funky hours lately. I'll actually be in Redmond mostly for the next week or two, if you happen to be headed to Smith

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