B Deleted_Beck
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Posts posted by B Deleted_Beck
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Do people actually climb on these things? It is fricken light, at 360grams... I'll give them that...
http://shop.gear4rocks.com/en/ice-snow/ice-axe-tool/prod_151.html
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Uh, that's a chipmunk.
Even a chipmunk is a snafflejacker at 6,000'.
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Hell yea you should fear them mufuccers.. they'll straight up car jack your shit.
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I'm confused. If he was climbing LC then there's no reason to cross Yocum Ridge or end up on the Sandy.
This confuses me as well. My thought was if in poor weather the climber mistakenly climbed up left of the Leutholds he could have ended climbing up onto the Yocum.
That pic I posted above is from the morning of, about 8am
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Weird, weird, weird.. So he climbed up onto the Yokum.. Then apparently tried to rap down to the Sandy from a picket... and either rapped off the end or the picket blew?
I remember a few years ago a couple guys who accidentally climbed up the couloir to Queens Chair, intending on Leutholds... I believe they had to be rescued by chopper. I wonder if this guy made the same error? I've been on that side a few times, but I've never actually done Leutholds.. I don't know how straightforward the couloir is, but it certainly looks like you just follow the path of least caloric burn. Visibility was crystal clear that morning...
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Sounds like a lame day out, to me.. tell those guys to learn how to belay in the gym, then you'll take 'em out for some TR on rock.
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Blackhawk
Do you happen to know where the rope and picket were spotted?
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Saw a group of four at about the 9500 ft level on cathedral ridge. They were still headed up when we last flew by them.
They appeared to be sticking to the rocks, which I think was a good thing considering the conditions we were witnessing. (I have minimal mountaineering knowledge).
On Saturday? Were you in the white plane?
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I saw his registry in there when I left for iRock on Saturday morning... I thought to myself, "wow.. I wouldn't climb that right now.. way too warm. Good luck!" Shit you not.
I didn't even know about all this till a couple days ago, then I went through my album from the climb and realized I'd taken two or three really good beta shots of the west face from the top of the western chamber. I'm technologically retarded, so I don't know how to zoom and sharpen resolution and all that crap, but I'm waiting for someone from SAR to call me back so I can email them over. Probably won't help much, but at least they show exactly what the glacier and route looked like the morning he was going through there... it's changed a lot in the last week, I can imagine.
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I was under the impression TMG was the only racket permitted to guide on Hood... do other places sub them for guiding, or be there more than one?
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The ages of our party are 51, 52, 24, 17, 16, and 13, though we are not extremely outdoorsy but we have camped on the north side of hood. The most strenuous hike we have done was old rag mountain in Virginia, which is about 8 miles, 2,500 feet elevation gain.
So do you think we are ready?
Fitness wise, the worst that's going to happen is you get tired and turn around. Technical wise, you need to understand and have practiced proper crampon technique, and self-belay and self-arrest technique. There was at least one rescue injury and one death last year from slips below Crater Rock- Hogsback is above Crater Rock. It's fairly serious stuff up there.
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Doesn't matter what footwear you wear. High heels, sandals, 8,000m boots, hiking boots... if you lack the ability to keep yourself safe in the alpine, you're already fucked.
I often wear hiking boots with contact strap crampons this time of year. Fast is light, and light is right. Or something like that.
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No hiking boots for climbing.. what about climbing shoes for climbing?
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Howdy
Has this range not been climbed much? Not really finding any info at all... any books on the topic? Google Almighty gives up nothing.
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No explanation?
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Next in line if that falls through, though it doesn't look like it will.
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I actually just had him not lace up the ankle on his snowboard boots.. worked!
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Saturday or Sunday?
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I know it's yet another lost cause, as there's really no reason on God's green earth to ever be over there, but I lost a brand-spankin' new Scarpa Force down the south face of iRock, and 3 hours of searching the face turned up nothing, so I have to assume it slid way the fuck down the glacier out in no-man's land.
Anyway... if someone's out there BCing and happens across a damn rock shoe, a six-pack of your favorite variety shall be due.
-Ben
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Guys call the south side of Hood a "hike" because it's super easy, as technical climbs go... about as easy as it gets, in fact. But it's still technical- it's still not something you can expect to just walk up. On the higher areas of the mountain, a simple slip will result in an uncontrolled slide- and it kills someone up there almost every year.
Crampon technique and self-belay and self-arrest technique are very important, and should be learned to proficiency before you "hike" Hood. I won't tell you to hire a guide- that's up to you. But one way or another, I strongly encourage you to know what you're doing before going higher than the last lift hut.
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I hear they finally re-released this one and you can buy a DVD anywhere, but I figure maybe someone would appreciate this here original more than the trash can.
Shoot me your address and it's yours
-Ben
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Howdy
Thinking I should probably part with this here split to finance a new project... Has probably a grand total of 10,000' of descent on it. Obviously has some minor scratches and nicks and things, but the top-sheet is overall in great condition, no delamination, metals are overall in great condition... thing definitely isn't even "broken in" yet
-Jones Solution 158
-Sparks R&D Blaze LT
-Voile hardwear
-Mr. Chomps pons - probably the most "worn" item- slightly chewed up looking edges, but actually less use than any other component
-G3 High-traction skins, good clean cut, stored stuck to the mesh things
$1460 retail before shipping, looking for $900 local
Also have a pair of TLT5s sz 28 I might part with, but I haven't decided yet... If you're interested, ax me about em
PM fer more pix
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Why?
I started writing a lengthy response, then remembered that I'm really running for myself right now - not really spraying about it. And I remembered that last time I started spraying about stuff, I lost my enthusiasm for doing it.
This is why I stopped writing TRs and posting climb albums on Facebook...
I should have added additional information request... such as age, what your routine looks like, and why you run, I guess.
So to "why," - I'm just curious to see where I stack up to other climbers. I'm not necessarily wanting to change or improve my own times, but if I see that other early- 30-somethings who run 1-2 times a week 3-6 miles per run with the occasional 12-miler and climb 1-2 times a month are averaging closer to 6:30 pace, then I might consider asking "what are you doing to keep that kind of pace up?" So that I can improve on my 7:20.
If I see that guys at my age and level are pretty close, or slower, I'll try to be a little more content.
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Next time I'll just leave a little earlier and bring snowshoes.
If next time is before next winter, you won't need snowshoes.. it'll be good cramponing snow till mid-morning from here out, till we get the next big dump in Novemberish.
For Sale: Gently Used Trad Rack
in The Yard Sale
Posted
It's not necessarily "gay" at all, bro. Embrace your sexuality. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Men_who_have_sex_with_men