vsigler

I am planning a trip to Washington/Oregon for late June 2012 and would like to climb both Mt. Adams (via Adams Glacier) and Mt. Hood within the same week. I know that nobody can predict winter and spring snowfall and summer temps, but in general, is the Adams Glacier a viable route during that time of year with regard to (i) accessibility of the trailhead (likely Killen Creek), and (ii) the condition of the route up the glacier? I've also seen reports describing another trailhead that's a little farther down the road from Killen Creek and is thought to be a little higher and "closer" to High Camp. Can anyone elaborate on that? Thanks in advance.

Thanks, PCG and caverpilot, that is exactly what I am looking for.

I will be visiting in about three weeks and will begin watching the weather closely as my trip nears. Does anyone have an idea of a resource that provide data about the cloud ceiling and cloud deck elevations around Mt. Hood? I keep seeing these crappy forecasts for the Timberline area but am wondering if the conditions higher up might be better (or at least more clear)...or if the forecasts aren't as bad as they appear.

On 14ers.com, they have a "conditions update" page (http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/peakstatus_main.php) , just for timely updates on route conditions...seems to work pretty well.

Any recommendations for a sunscreen that won't sting the eyes once the sweat starts pouring?

Would you consider Leutholds Couloir less objectively hazardous (i.e. rock and icefall) than the Reid Headwall?

I am in the market for an ice tool but don't have the cash to drop on top-shelf gear. I have seen what I would call "economy" tools out there for resonable (and one might say rediculously-low) prices; Stubai Hornet, Omega Pacific Bulldog, barely used DMM Fly, etc. One caveat is that I live in Ohio and make a trip west every year to climb, so these will not get full-time use...just need the second tool for the occasional 50-60 degree slope or to mess around with some top-rope ice-climbing. Does anyone have any experience with these or other reasonably-priced tools ($125 and below)?

Can anyone give me an idea of how long it should take to climb from Illumination Rock to the Mt. Hood summit via the Reid Glacier Headwall under good conditions ( I will be there in early June, praying for good conditions)? Also, I have seen varying reports about the steepness of the route. Accounts vary from 45 degrees to 60+ degrees...what's the average? Grateful for any information. Thanks.

Can non-dry-treated, or ropes that have lost their dry treatment, be treated with a product to regain water repellency? Thanks.

A well worn topic, but since models are constantly changing, what's the latest favorite point and shoot camera for mountaineering? I am looking for ease of use while wearing gloves, wide angle lens (28 mm or less), AA batteries (although rechargable is not a deal-breaker) and decent image quality in lower light situations. I am thinking that just about anything is an upgrade over my eight year old Kodak Easyshare DX, but would prefer not having to purchase again for some time. Thanks.

That dude's gone forever.

Did a Kautz-to-DC carryover last July during mid-week and was amazed at how may disorganized groups I saw coming up the DC route as we were descending. Would love to be able to tell you that if you choose mid-week then you can avoid crowds on the more popular routes, but that doesn't appear to be the case, at least from my limited experience and that of others I've climbed with. I think the most important part of training for an endeavor like Rainier is to understand how to feel like crap, because you will. think about what sounds good to eat when you feel like crap and how you can best mentally cope with the possibility of having to turn around...often times harder than summiting. Good luck.

Good idea. We will be on/around the mountain for three days, so we might just do one night at I-Rock, and then a second at Twin Rocks before the summit climb on the third day.

Thanks for all of the great input. I will have a couple of first-timers with me, so I will probably stick to the original plan of simply traversing back to the traditional route and move up east of Crater Rock. Keep it simple for them. I will be attempting the Reid Headwall a few days earlier, so I'm sure that will satisfy my need for technicality. Again thanks a lot.

I am considering a new boot purchase and was looking at the Mammut Monolith GTX boot. These would be used for mostly summer, general mountaineering and routes like the Reid Headwall on Mt. Hood and the Kautz Glacier on Mt. Rainier. Therefore, some 50-60 degree ice thrown in with the general stuff. I am looking for information concerning durability, truness of fit and stability on moderate ice slopes with crampons. Thanks

Ptown climber1, with regard to rockfall, I assume you are speaking abut traversing from I-Rock, beneath Crater Rock (south of), toward the trad route, correct? And when you say traversing higher up, you mean stayng west of Crater Rock to get to the Old Chute, right?

I will be on Mt. Hood, camping at Illumination Rock, in early June. It appears from photos that a route directly from I-Rock to the Old Chute (west side of Crater Rock) would save considerable time over traversing to the east side of Crater Rock and climbing the Hogsback, only to then traverse back to the Old Chute (assuming the PGs are in poor shape). Is this possible at that time of year? Also, how long should the climb from I-Rock to the summit take? I'm assuming a reasonably fit climber could do it in about two hours? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for all of the advise. I checked out the Mazamas Lodge website and it looks like it might be perfect for our group. Thanks, V

Does anyone know of a hotel to stay at near Mt. Hood that's affordable? Don't need fancy, just near the mountain so I don't have to drive from Portland on the day I climb. Options identified online seem pricey. Will be there for a few days, otherwise, I would just sleep in the car. Thanks.

Does anyone out there have any experience with using the MSR Skinny Too tent as a mountaineering tent? It is listed in several places as a 3+ season tent and I was wondering how it holds up to a mountain weather beating. They are on sale at backcountrygear.com for $119 and that seems like a great deal if it can handle the conditions.

Thanks for all of the input thusfar...very helpful. Will keep all in mind as I plan. We will be there during the week, so I would expect that the crowds will be reduced somewhat. That was actually my first consideration when planning this. I will probabaly come out a few days earlier and attempt the Sunshine route (carryover to normal route) with a friend of mine based in WA. Will do some reconaissance during that trip too. I'll be sure to bring my knickers and alpenstock.

Hi Everyone: I am planning to introduce a couple of friends to mountaineering by visiting Mt. Hood in June. My goal was to spend 3 days on the south side of the mountain. On day one, we would climb to camp above the Palmer Lift or near Illumination Rock. After establishing camp, I will teach them about moving in crampons and ice axe and rope use (preferably on some steeper terrain). On Day two, I want to teach them about mountain safety, i.e., self arrest, anchor building, crevasse rescue and self extraction from a crevasse. On day three, we will make a summit attempt and descend. My specific questions: (1) are any decent crevasses present in the upper Palmer Glacier/ Illumination Rock are near which we can practice the crevasse skills (trip is in mid-June)? (2) are any steep slopes available nearby to practice self arrest (from photos it looks like either side of the Hogsback might do (crazy?), but I've never seen what's at the bottom)? (3) Is camping possible near Illumination Rock in June? (4) How long are the Pearly Gates and Old Chute couloirs? Photos make these appear to be around 150 feet in length or so. I'm trying to gauge rope management in these sections. Thanks for your input.