Woodcutter
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Posts posted by Woodcutter
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[/img] Repetitive: but the Tyrol declaration was agreed in 2002, if I remember right there were some big climbing cheeses there: a Bonnington maybe, plus a Scott...I can't find the details. But it defines the fundamental principles in mountain sports.
..and it says don't mess with the gear unless we all want it messed with, and the 1st ascensionists agree.
Authority or not. Chopping anchors is irresponsible if they are expected to be there - as in 'historically present'
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[/img] Tyrol declration on best practice in mountain sports. Published in 2003 American Alpine Journal.
(If the picture works)
It's really small:
" We aim to preserve the original character of all climbs, most especially those with historical significance. This means that climbers should not increase fixed protection on existing routes. The exception is when there is local consensus - including agreement from the 1st ascensionists - to change the level of fixed protection by placing new gear or removing fixed gear" End quote
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The Moose slideshow looks excellent. Maybe consider bringing it to Seattle if you're passing through!
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I like your photos, they tell a good story. The watermark is a bit distracting. Thanks for the report from an area I know nothing about.
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OR Alti gloves with the liners removed.
They are the only winter glove that fits my hands. Great dexterity & waterproof. But I am a a furnace & keeping cool is my problem.
I would like a pair of synthetic mits for belaying.
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Yeah man> we met you at breakfast time as you were heading up from Godell Cr.
Excellent effort. Someone was alive up on top of one of the 'Macs that night & I did wonder if it was you.
Jake
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Don't buy the 7.8mm monsters. They are really soft and handle quite badly and tangle where stiffer ropes would not, especially when wet.
We used Kyle Flicks 8mm ropes recently (Petzl I think) and they handled substantially better, much stiffer with a really nice feel. Maybe Kyle will chime in.
Also. I have been using the twin/ monsters for a few years, and the diameter is fine, they bounce quite a bit while rapping but otherwise at 5lbs/ rope for 60m.... top, never worried about them being too thin. Jake
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...anyone know if there's any snow left on the route for water. Including snow on the descent would be worth knowing about?
Thanks Jake
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Great write-up.
I've been chuckling about the 'trap' all day long.
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That there is THE shit. Right there, poked in the eye.
Spot on, rock on fellas.
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That's all great stuff. Thanks everyone.
I regularly use the 7.8mm metolius ropes & they rap just fine in a reverso (granted, as a pair, not singly).
I find it really disturbing that the static lines loose up to 1/2 their strength when wet. I mean it's wet a lot outside innit!
Thanks again. I reckon it's worth noting that this setup is for ski touring, so the rope is really only for rapping, not climbing. The rope often never gets used. Also the raps are often not highly exposed: there is often a snowfield below the gully/ cliff that you've elected to rap, so whilst failure is not desirable, it may not be game-over. But please note that I don't want to trivialise the seriousness of rapelling.
My last question is: if you're using the single rope & thin tag line combo: what folks run the rope through on the anchor (carabiner/ rap ring?) to ENSURE the knot doesn't pull through. And is it just a knot, or is there some metal hardware on the pull-cord side which definitely wont go through the biner/ rap-ring anchor.
Thanks again. Jake
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This is more of a cascadeskiiers question.
I am thinking about the up-coming ski season, and some of the things I have in mind have some cliffs to get down.
Anyway...I'm sure I read a Dan Helmstader report where he was rapping off Shuksan on 3mm line (or maybe that was the pull-cord). I know guys who rap off 6mm line, but that's still 3lbs for a 60m line.
If 5mm is OK for v threads, could you rap on it., etc, etc, etc,.
any thoughts gladly received.
...yeah, should really go climbing & get off the internet.
Jake
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These are C kites - the 4 line kites without a bridle. Turn faster but can’t depower as quickly as the new bridle designs.
JN kites from Germany, manufactured in the same factory as North, but designed by Nestler, who’s a genius (designed the 1st ski-kite/ speed racer).
9M JN Prima Donna MK 1, complete (30m lines) + spare short bar and 20 M lines. This kite is a legend. Perfect for swell riding. Condition: Used with 1 main-tube repair
13M JN Easy Rider. Condition: Almost new, used once
17M JN Wild thing MK1 complete. Condition: Almost new, used thrice
140cm Atlee custom carbon, wave profile twintip. Perfect beginner/ intermediate board if you’re 160-200lbs. It’s the top of it’s class still. Handmade 1 of 12 by kite Cornish legend Axel Bamburger. Very light, planes fast, turns well in waves, concave base.
Local pick up in Seattle and I’m going need to know that the buyer knows how to fly, or is going to be taught, or has friends who will look after him/ her & teach the basics.
I’ve got a harness you can have too. $500 cash for the lot.
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...how about that casual 6.5 hour approach?
Any beta for the casual bushwhackershwacker????
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There are quite a few on ebay
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I looked into this last week for work.
It seems that most of the major companies have really lightweight (just above 1 lb/ foot) mid-height technical approach shoe, some with a popper climbing sole/ rand.
Water resistance I don't know about & durability will suck, but in order to fly throught mtns, they look topif you're planning on climbing rock.
Also I have Chamoz' which are OK, I use them on Rainier in summer & anything else 3 season climbing.
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Great stuff, especially the evolved strategy. Nice that you nixxed the 24 hour solo, WA to CA solo warm-up car driving pitch!
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Excellent, everything, excellent idea, photography, beard, sloggin', the works. Apocalypse is coming, dem Natzi's is everywhere, even in the kitchen.
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Apologies for the misinformation, beer & enthusiasm for the wonderful internet & multifaceted communities may have been interfering with play. Good luck on the search for housing.
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Yes, I love that tent.
It actually seems to breathe, it's the Toddtex membrane. Bomb proof, really bomb proof, and stupidly easy to set up. Pretty small inside though.
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I'll take the biners if they're still availible
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That last one is a tremendous photo
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That's not above the treeline, it's below the belt.
Personally I think Spidey has a point on price, I reckon 50%, but hey what's 17% between fiends, further I don't see him calling you names.
You sir, need to learn some manners:
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I have had no reply either.
Has Dave Page moved?
in The Gear Critic
Posted
I drove past twice today & the lights were on and it all looked normal inside.......(206) 632-8686 and ask ????