Woodcutter
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Posts posted by Woodcutter
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mmmmmmmmmmmmmm good post Taanstafil. It was very nice to see you & dude.
Jim has a splendid topo that Mr Whitelaw drew. Where's that topo Jim?
Jake das Brit.
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Brexit, my fine friend, is the resurrected zombie corpse of Thatcher-era anti-Europe nationalism. Brought back to life by the lackbeard Cameron (who then resigned to become a fucking shepard, for real), and fueled by viscous Trumpian down-economy jobs shortage, and kneaded by the bitch May into a great big mess, the kind of mess that when you make one, you apologize to all concerned and ask forgiveness and can everything please go back to how it was before. 'I'm really sorry', that kind of thing.
Unfortunately no one over there has the political chops to execute a climb-down, so that's the end of the UK for a few more years. Oh Woe is me...………………...
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Trip: Mt Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir
Trip Date: 04/05/2019There is no bergschrund, the ice pitches are so minor that we barely slowed down.
The top West ridge was full value, ice & mixed conditions were fantastic with cracks open to take gear, but accumulation in the backs of cracks in the top pitches making the best mixed conditions I've ever had in the Enchantments, but I would say that since Danny lead the technical jazz. No photos up there as we were hauling ass & cold.
Very scary avi conditions on the descent with propagating cracks on the Sherpa Glacier & enough slabs peeling off to make a guy very happy to be down. Also white-out & nuclear winds on summit were unforgettable. We climbed straight up the west ridge after the tiny notch on exit from the north. I thought this was great, but the ledge ~30 below the tiny notch may be a better route.. 14 hours tent to tent (in the 5400vf meadow)
Photos are not in order.....
Looking down N face exiting to tiny notch:
Exit top of couloir
Ice pitches...minor
Gear Notes:
Small cams 0.3 -2", rack offset wires, pins: LA, KB, beak, didn't use screws except one shit one.
Approach Notes:
Snowshoes from 1/2 way up road & to camp. No snowshoes above 5400vf. Very bad avi conditions on descent on Sherpa Glacier. GPS (or solid previous knowledge) essential to get off summit in nasty storm.
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Many thanksmthorman, those are the puppies. Thansk for the effort
...also thanks Gene, appreciate the effort. I do think those look like you'd put them in yer open wine bottle to stop it going off. Ha
Rock on.
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...thanks for your thoghful & considered reply. I have been outside once or twice before, I was struck by how diuffernt it looked from GoogleEarth.
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...I saw a guy in Vertical World last year with some wooden ice tools, not the Dryice ones with the big rubber bands.
I think the copany name was Helix, these tool-things had wooden pick shapes with a rubber pad at the end so you can drytool in the gym.
Anyway, I can't find anything on the interweb, so if anyone has a lead on these things, I'd be happy to get some info. And before the howls of derision begin...I've trashed my fingers so I reckon trytooling may be the way to go for a while.
Thanks in advance. Jake
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Clost cleaning...priced to sell, there is nothing worng with these units, they just sit in the closet & so they should go to some one who will use them.
#1.5 tech friend, #2 Helium, #2.5 Tech friend, #3 tech friend, #3 Original solid bar friend, #3.5 tech friend, #4 tech friend, +trango max cam
The tech friends are not much used, I am the original owner, no abuse. The trango, and the solid bar I inheritted from a careful friend, so nothing to worry about there.
$120 cash, firm, in NE Seattle
email me, please don't pm thru this site: jakeevans100 at hotmail.com
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Great TR & excellent landscapes. Your buddy in the mid-gound, Mt R in the background & stumps in foreground is a classic composition you just don't see that aften. Nice.
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It's probably worth knowing that inside thatr enormous pack are...snowshoes!
Yeah baby... better than skis on this gig, or I'm a lying pilgrim!
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Posting for a fiend who can't get into his cc account. Reply to his email below. The photo gallery won't let me post the photo, email Ari if you want pics, they all look new to me.:
All gear is in excellent condition. Before we really stopped climbing, we bought a few new pieces with the intention of cragging more, which is why some pieces are listed as "new". Preference would be to sell the rack as a whole, or groups of pieces rather than individuals, hence the discount for purchases of 4+ pieces. All cams include a BD hoodwire biner, and the nuts include a racking biner and BD nut tool. Here is what we've got:
Item Condition - Single Price - for 4+
WC Friend #2 new 50 45
WC Friend #2.5 new 50 45
Metolius Master Cam #0 lightly used 40 35
Metolius Master Cam #1 lightly used 40 35
Metolius Master Cam #2 lightly used 40 35
Metolius Master Cam #3 lightly used 40 35
BD Stoppr Set #4-13 used 60 55
hoodwire quickdraw (3X) used 10/ea 8/ea
email: akarchin at gmail dot com
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Good day out.
Hopefully conditions persist and/ or repeat since there is potential there for cascades-style (scary & variable ice) alpine cragging. Really, a couple of routes up the headwall to the summit seem do-able & would be groovy. Just gotta stay out of the neighborhood & approach via the beacon park. Jake
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Chockstone falls looks FAT,
lots of snow up there so it may be slow going low down. The 1st pitch looks very, very hollow, we went around it on the left side.
Rock on. Jake
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Good question. I do not have an answer/ But from past experience, you may be able to drive up to somewhere around the HIddenLake turn off, if you have all these things you might not use; saw, patience & maybe chains but definitely high clearance. I don't reckon anyone can get past the 1700' bit a few miles down the road at this time of year without a snow machine. But then again, what do I know? not so much. If you can, then you'll gain quite a few miles on the downhill.
Go, if you don't go, you won't know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I have what you need. I ran a boot r&d project for years & I have full tilt tongues, homemade carbon tongues, tongues made from hdpe, spam, you name it...
Email me, I'd be pleased to help out. In Seattle
jakeevans100athotmail.com
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Those shite phone pics rock. All photos are always better than no photos. Bummer you blanked on the rope. Rock on, towards the sun!
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Hell yes. I love to camp!
The approach I've been using for the last few years is to get to the TH about sunset & do the hike in the dark, as far as we can be bothered to go. Ideally pull into camp about 9 or 10pm, cook dinner & get into bed. Up about 4.30, eat eggs & get moving. Then do the route, get back to the tent, eat again & hike out that night.
It works pretty well to keep my wife happy since I'm only really away for 1 1/2 days. Also you obviously stand a better chance on the route if you sleep near the bottom, also, the late arrival prevents sitting around in a camp in the winter feezing your ass off, better to be hiking.
Jake
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Trip: Colchuck - NE couloir
Date: 11/29/2015
Trip Report:
Into the vertical maw we trot. Little alpine ponies, starry eyes wide open trying to look around the corners.
After a few rope-lengths we see a crux, a 20’ vertical chimney pumping gluttons of spindrift. Hacking & stemming up the thunker neve walls by thunk-vision was the trip; don’t look up or the river will fill your face & jacket right up, a life affirming blast. Then a cave/ chockstone up few more rope-lengths offered 2 bomber cams fueling the madness; reaching over the roof 2 thunker tool placements and cut loose with the feet & climb up the tool shafts ‘Yeahaaa I’m a fucking cowboy’.
This route rocks. Then it eases back into cruiser-country until the big bowl ends & the left-right choice.
Left of course. The right walls were all packing ½” of sketchy ice & reports of no gear. We want more gear.
I have never been to Alaska, but I suspect it might be a bit like these top pitches: Mixed moves on buried rock covered with plenty of unsupportive snow. Thrilling stuff, all within limits, with just enough pro to not be peeling off the mountain, but the ropes never long enough. 10/10 full value.
Tragically the lost soloist who was on the same mountain the day before, is still lost, he’s been on our minds ever since. Sincere condolences to his loved ones. We had encountered SAR at the trailhead & told them what we knew & moved on down the mountain. I think it’s fair to say that the summer crevasses on the Colchuck glacier are large & we should be roped up.
The crisp photos are Victors, the manky ones & the selfies are mine. Beer & whiskey to combat the hollows!
Jake & Victor
//www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/Colchuck_NE_couloir-106.jpg[/img]
/Colchuck_NE_couloir-116.jpg[/img]
Gear Notes:
3 pins, 1 very thin bugaboo (most useful).
Cams: Mastercam 0 to 2, doubles in 1 (recommended). BD 05-3 (didn't use the 3 gonna stop carrying it.
Wires; Yes.
Long slings were good
Icescrews were no use.
Picket; Victor bought one along, we could have used another.
Approach Notes:
Bike to TH, forget harness, go back to L-town get new harness from LMS (massive props for re-opening th eshop for us) bike back up & hike in. Sleep @ lake
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Trip: Argonaut - NE couloir
Date: 11/22/2015
Trip Report:
Laughingboy & I climbed Argonaut NE couloirs on Sunday. It was a cruiser, we simuled all except the steep 80 degree snice step about 400’ up. The gear is poor below this step & good above. The 5.6 section was impossible to find, totally snowed up but we gained the summit snowfield via a few mixed moves up a groove-turns-into-a-ridge located to the right of the 5.6 bit, with bomber gear. It was 1.40pm, too late to summit so Josh & I rapped down what I think is the 5.6 bit and traversed climbers left into the descent couloir (red). Descent was downclimbing with some anchors. Walked over to the Argo-Colchuck col & rapped into the 2nd gully on a blue 6mm thread with our 70m single rope, which ran out above a vertical step. Luck, the mountain gods handed us a perfect wire & thread anchor & we rapped out again, downclimbed & scarpered home. Early season in the Enchantments.
Gear Notes:
2 pins, one thin, one wider (used)
Cams: 0 Mastercam to 2. BD from .5 to 3, didn't really need the ebig ones.
Wires were good.
Ice screws: 3 stubbys & 2 13cm, not used in any meaningful way: Ha
Approach Notes:
Stuart lake trail to 1st switchback, hike se for a few 100 yards to creek, cross, continue se to outflank the side hill boulderfield for less than 1/4 mile then head south to Mounntaineer Creek, follow the creek on the right side (trail), cross the multiple creeks coming from the Stuart basin, stay on teh righ side of the Mountaineer Creek branch that comes from Sherpa basin for about 1/5 mile, cross creek when you can get directly into the boulders. Go up. We screwed this up royally!
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It's wool, but I use this Ibex tank over a thin baselayer for bc skiing on the uptrack on cold days with no shell. I also run hot.
http://shop.ibex.com/merino-wool-clothing/mens-short-sleeve-shirts/m-woolies-1-sleeveless
You will look a bit like you're cruising for action on Capitol HIll, but the vest/ tank thing kinda works since you keep your arms down if you're cold & arms up if you're hot and then ditch the heat from the pits.
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Your photography is wonderful. I particularly like the portrait: # 2. Speaks volumes.
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What's facebook?
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I am a big fan of Colchuck in early season. The rock seems better that D-tail. Something for everyone there, including what look like stout unrepeated winter routes by cc celebrities!
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"my pet goat"
Excellent diaphragm-work-out-chuckle-fest
@Ben
Into thin Goats. John Krakauer
Old school xgk
in The Yard Sale
Posted
I'll take the old XKG if still available. I go past Snohomish pretty regularly & can collect.
Email is best: jake evans 100 @ hotmail .com