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mjack

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  • Birthday 11/26/2017

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  1. Dave Pagel, author of many articles in Climbing, R&I, and Ascent, has just published a collection of stories, interviews and verse. You may remember his articles, written from a average climber's mindset, (although I think his climbs and writing style were anything but average) as some of the funniest, insightful, and engaging pieces of climbing literature out there. I've been disappointed these days in climbing writing in the magazines, and think back on the times when climbing writers wrote stories, not just another list of ten pieces of gear you need, or monotonous accounts of some rock stars's latest send. If you are looking for some great storytelling, look through your old magazines, or get his book! Dave was one of the people who first taught me to climb and it was his descriptions of Devil's Tower, Eldorado Canyon and Chamonix inspired me to go to those areas. Check it out: https://www.facebook.com/coldfeetbook https://www.createspace.com/4873079
  2. Can I toss in a photo or two of my collection?
  3. I am going to be in Chamonix this summer and will be looking for alpine climbing partners. I will be looking for people who want to climb easy alpine routes, up to grade AD depending on conditions. I am a cautious climber and I have taken glacier rescue classes and practice it every year. I like to do routes that are on snow and ice more than on rock, and am not interested in doing pure rock routes. I'll go cragging at le Gaillands or Vallorcine on iffy weather days, but I'm not looking to do big rock routes up high. I am 45 and have climbed rock and ice for the last 25 years, mostly in US and Canada, doing a lot of cragging on ice and rock when I was younger and moving into the alpine in the last decade. I have done a fair amount of easy alpine climbing, with a goal of improving my skills along the way. Here is a quick rundown of the last few seasons: Grand Teton (Owen-Spaulding) Mount Rainier (Eammons Glacier) Mount Assiniboine (NE Ridge) Mount Athabasca (N Face) Dreamweaver, Mt Meeker Black Ice Couloir, Grand Teton Chere Couloir, Mont Blanc du Tacul Contamine-Grissole, Tacul Table Couloir, Augille du Tour Gouter Route, Mont Blanc Cosmique Arrete, Auguille du Midi Point Lachanal Traverse North Face, Augille du Thoule Gooseneck Couloir, Gannet Peak, Wyoming Mount Whitney, CA Could Peak, Wyoming None of these climbs were with guides, instead I have climbed with friends and mentors, most of whom were better than me and have helped me get stronger and more experienced in the mountains. I have a partner who I will be climbing with from 1 July to the July 14th, but I would like to do more climbing and some acclimatizing before he arrives. In the mountains, I am comfortable leading US grade 2-3 ice, and up to about 5.5-5.6 on rock, although I can follow much harder. I climb harder than this, but in the mountains, with a pack, I take it down several notches.I prefer long easy routes to short hard ones. I want to make sure I am not overestimating or exaggerating my abilities to potential partners. I will not have a car during my trip, and will be based in Cham, probably at the Vagabond although I would be willing to go to other places as well. I figure that we would have to do some kind of getting –to -know each other, see-how-fit/ experienced, warm-up route together to start with, I like to know the people I am climbing with fairly well before heading up on something bigger. I would be willing to repeat most of the Chamonix routes listed above, and have ideas for others as well. Please send me a PM if you would be interested in joining me for some climbing.
  4. Still looking. Hoping for alaska picks.
  5. Looking for alaska, or older reverse curve picks to put on Black Prophets, I don't care if they are used as long as they are usable, looking for cheap.
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