MrGecko
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Posts posted by MrGecko
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Thanks y'all, nice to hear the history and not lose totally the exploration that was done. Micah is putting together a guide(s) for the region and it would be nice to capture all this goodness including the folks who scratched away at those lines.
I'll go take a look and see what I can piece together from what you shared.
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Ivan,
do you have any pics that you can show where those lines go? Maybe super impose a rough guess?
Thanks! Would like to hit the Soup line with you sometime.
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We are seeking an experienced climbing shoe resoler. You can work flexible hours so that you can still go out and climb rock. Work when it rains, work early mornings or late nights that's up to you. You will essentially be running your own business within an existing shoe repair facility which will provide you with a work space, materials and equipment. You bring your know how, friendliness and desire to grow the business.
Want to move to the NW and live in Portland or maybe you already live here and want a flexible position.
Requirements:
Experience resoling climbing shoes
Knowledge of various shoe brands
Knowledge of climbing shoe rubber materials
Knowledge of adhesive materials
Process oriented
Able to operate power tools/machinery
Customer service know how
Friendly
Honest
Trustworthy
Basic command of the English language
Good communication skills
We look forward to hearing from you and please share accordingly. This post will be removed or updated when the position is no longer available.
Thanks!
resoler@miraiusa.com
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Big Wall Tips & Tricks with Mark Hudon
Friday, June 3rd, 2016 ..... 5:00PM - 9:00PM
Mazama Mountaineering Center
527 SE 43rd Avenue
Portland, OR 97215
This clinic was previously held with great attendance through the Mazamas Clinics & Special Presentations. It was a full house, packed with great information and very well received. Mark will be back from another season of winter & spring climbing fresh to tell tales and share tips about his latest sessions on the big stone climbing some serious El Cap routes in Yosemite.
Please spread the word.
Thanks
SIGN UP: http://mazamas.org/education-classes/clinics-and-special-presentations/
CLINIC DESCRIPTION, $45
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If you have already embarked on your path to big wall climbing, have a few or many ascents or are just about to open that door but have a good idea of the logistics involved then you might want to join big wall master Mark Hudon for an evening of big wall tribal knowledge.
Topics to be discussed and/or demonstrated include:
Advanced hauling and docking
Solo bag movement
Packing a haul bag
Nice to have extras and specialized tools
Unique/uncommon gear placements
Cheaters
Efficient leading and following
Fast belay setups
Communication or lack of
Preferred aiders and ascender setup
Big wall racking
Fast ascending/following
Portaledge setup
Faster transitions
About Mark Hudon
Mark Hudon first climbed El Capitan in 1974 when he was 18 years old. Over the next 6 years Mark would climb El Cap 8 more times by a number of different routes such as the Mescalito, Magic Mushroom, New Dawn and the Zodiac, not to mention nearly free ascents of the Salalthe Wall and The Nose. In 2009 Mark was bitten by the big wall bug again and lead The Nose route in a 15.5 hr push. The next spring he soloed Grape Race to Tribal Rite in 11 days and has done 15 routes since, including two more solos. With various partners Mark knocked out six El Cap routes last year including Tempest, A4+ and Genesis A4+
Mark was recently featured in Accidental Production's El Cap Bridge Web Series
[video:vimeo]158762502
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Big Wall Tips & Tricks with Mark Hudon
Friday, June 3rd, 2016 ..... 5:00PM - 9:00PM
Mazama Mountaineering Center
527 SE 43rd Avenue
Portland, OR 97215
This clinic was previously held with great attendance through the Mazamas Clinics & Special Presentations. It was a full house, packed with great information and very well received. Mark will be back from another season of winter & spring climbing fresh to tell tales and share tips about his latest sessions on the big stone climbing some serious El Cap routes in Yosemite.
Please spread the word.
Thanks
SIGN UP: http://mazamas.org/education-classes/clinics-and-special-presentations/
CLINIC DESCRIPTION, $45
-----------------------------------------
If you have already embarked on your path to big wall climbing, have a few or many ascents or are just about to open that door but have a good idea of the logistics involved then you might want to join big wall master Mark Hudon for an evening of big wall tribal knowledge.
Topics to be discussed and/or demonstrated include:
Advanced hauling and docking
Solo bag movement
Packing a haul bag
Nice to have extras and specialized tools
Unique/uncommon gear placements
Cheaters
Efficient leading and following
Fast belay setups
Communication or lack of
Preferred aiders and ascender setup
Big wall racking
Fast ascending/following
Portaledge setup
Faster transitions
About Mark Hudon
Mark Hudon first climbed El Capitan in 1974 when he was 18 years old. Over the next 6 years Mark would climb El Cap 8 more times by a number of different routes such as the Mescalito, Magic Mushroom, New Dawn and the Zodiac, not to mention nearly free ascents of the Salalthe Wall and The Nose. In 2009 Mark was bitten by the big wall bug again and lead The Nose route in a 15.5 hr push. The next spring he soloed Grape Race to Tribal Rite in 11 days and has done 15 routes since, including two more solos. With various partners Mark knocked out six El Cap routes last year including Tempest, A4+ and Genesis A4+
Mark was recently featured in Accidental Production's El Cap Bridge Web Series
[video:vimeo]158762502
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All this talk of soup and not much about the routes to the left or right of it.
Left of Stone Soup is a route called Smoke Signals, 10c from what I can gather. Bill Coe made reference to it having 13 bolts and being called Crossdressing Fool but I think that was his April 1st post.
Right of Soup is what, anything?
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Kenny thanks so much for posting this, what a great article.
Joseph you rock!
Thank you so much for risking your freedom and well being for a cause that you believe in and which many other people believe in. It makes me proud to know that you took to protesting in a peaceful manner that brought attention to the harm and destruction that is happening to our environment. I think of all those folks who recently hung from the St.John's bridge in protest of Arctic drilling and like you they too were willing to hang it all out there for the benefit of us all.
Bravo man!
Just in case anyone needs a little light reading this evening.. And in case your chums in WA State Parks were curious about your previous conservation strategies, here's a non-slanderous update for them, courtesy of the Chicago Tribune archives, May 2nd, 1978!
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Is this up the valley towards the terminus of the Nisqually Glacier? The same valley with Mikey's Gully?
Thanks!
Peter leading Nisqually Belle WI5 - full 70m pitch.
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Rock gear and fuel bottles SOLD
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MSR Evo Snowshoes & Flotation Tails
$125
Portland, OR
MSR Evo Snowshoes are a favorite of snow-shoers around the world, delivering legendary dependability and all-condition traction that's built for rolling terrain and trails. Built on a solid foundation, the Evo Ascent snowshoes deliver a level of security that tubular frames can't, and will take on tough traverses on mountain terrain.
These new and never used shoes include the detachable tails which allow one to create more flotation when carrying more weight. The Evo Modular Flotation Tails add 6 in. of on-demand flotation to any MSR Evo snowshoe. Simply slide them on and twist down the adjustment knob for float in deep snow, or when carrying a heavy pack.
REI's current retail cost for these items $250, this is a 50% discounted package.
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Price drop $50
[video:youtube]NVnglL6l0KQ
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I wanted to post this here for those not in the various FaceBook climbing groups and since I know a bunch of you guys are local if not all.
[font:Century Gothic]Big Wall Tips & Tricks with Mark Hudon[/font]
Saturday, December 5th, 2015 ..... 1:00-5:00PM
Mazama Mountaineering Center
527 SE 43rd Avenue
Portland, OR 97215
Last spring we held this class through the Mazamas Clinics & Special Presentations. It was a full house, packed with great information and very well received. Mark is just back from a full season of climbing completing one of his projects by sending all the 12a's in Rifle on Colorado's Western Slope. This fall he spent yet another long session on the big stone climbing some serious El Cap routes in Yosemite.
Please spread the word.
Thanks
SIGN UP: http://mazamas.org/education-classes/clinics-and-special-presentations/
CLINIC DESCRIPTION, $45
-----------------------------------------
If you have already embarked on your path to big wall climbing, have a few or many ascents or are just about to open that door but have a good idea of the logistics involved then you might want to join big wall master Mark Hudon for an evening of big wall tribal knowledge.
Topics to be discussed and/or demonstrated include:
Advanced hauling and docking
Solo bag movement
Packing a haul bag
Nice to have extras and specialized tools
Unique/uncommon gear placements
Cheaters
Efficient leading and following
Fast belay setups
Communication or lack of
Preferred aiders and ascender setup
Big wall racking
Fast ascending/following
Portaledge setup
Faster transitions
.
About Mark Hudon
Mark Hudon first climbed El Capitan in 1974 when he was 18 years old. Over the next 6 years Mark would climb El Cap 8 more times by a number of different routes such as the Mescalito, Magic Mushroom, New Dawn and the Zodiac, not to mention nearly free ascents of the Salalthe Wall and The Nose. In 2009 Mark was bitten by the big wall bug again and lead The Nose route in a 15.5 hr push. The next spring he soloed Grape Race to Tribal Rite in 11 days and has done 15 routes since, including two more solos. With various partners Mark knocked out six El Cap routes this year including Tempest, A4+ and Genesis A4+ . Mark was recently featured in Climbing Magazine - http://www.climbing.com/…/el-cap-pioneers-hudon-jones-plan…/
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[font:Century Gothic]Big Wall Tips & Tricks with Mark Hudon[/font]
Saturday, December 5th, 2015 ..... 1:00-5:00PM
Mazama Mountaineering Center
527 SE 43rd Avenue
Portland, OR 97215
Last spring we held this class through the Mazamas Clinics & Special Presentations. It was a full house, packed with great information and very well received. Mark is just back from a full season of climbing completing one of his projects by sending all the 12a's in Rifle on Colorado's Western Slope. This fall he spent yet another long session on the big stone climbing some serious El Cap routes in Yosemite.
Check the
http://mazamas.org/education-classes/clinics-and-special-presentations/
website for signup information.
Please spread the word.
Thanks
CLINIC DESCRIPTION, $45
-----------------------------------------
If you have already embarked on your path to big wall climbing, have a few or many ascents or are just about to open that door but have a good idea of the logistics involved then you might want to join big wall master Mark Hudon for an evening of big wall tribal knowledge.
Topics to be discussed and/or demonstrated include:
Advanced hauling and docking
Solo bag movement
Packing a haul bag
Nice to have extras and specialized tools
Unique/uncommon gear placements
Cheaters
Efficient leading and following
Fast belay setups
Communication or lack of
Preferred aiders and ascender setup
Big wall racking
Fast ascending/following
Portaledge setup
Faster transitions
.
About Mark Hudon
Mark Hudon first climbed El Capitan in 1974 when he was 18 years old. Over the next 6 years Mark would climb El Cap 8 more times by a number of different routes such as the Mescalito, Magic Mushroom, New Dawn and the Zodiac, not to mention nearly free ascents of the Salalthe Wall and The Nose. In 2009 Mark was bitten by the big wall bug again and lead The Nose route in a 15.5 hr push. The next spring he soloed Grape Race to Tribal Rite in 11 days and has done 15 routes since, including two more solos. With various partners Mark knocked out six El Cap routes this year including Tempest, A4+ and Genesis A4+ . Mark was recently featured in Climbing Magazine - http://www.climbing.com/…/el-cap-pioneers-hudon-jones-plan…/
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Stuff is available in Portland for pickup or I can ship for $6 small USPS Priority box.
BLACK DIAMOND STOPPERS $3/pc
Sizes available: ers: #4,8,12,12
WILD COUNTRY ROCKCENTRIC $5
#7, Yellow
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MSR fuel bottles, no leaky caps one is full of fuel.
2 x 30oz Bottles ........ $8 each
3 x 20oz Bottles ........ $6 each
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MSR Hyperflow water filter cartridges. Brand new, I have 5 of these and they typically go for $40 retail.
New Hollow Fiber Hyperflow Filter Cartridge ........ $25
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MSR Footprint for Carbon Reflex 1 Tent
Brand new never used and comes with stuff sack.
Footprint ........ $25
[img:center]https://post.craigslist.org/imagepreview/01515_dsnknHHkRdQ_600x450.jpg[/img]
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Any better pics of those daisy's, what brand?
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At least no one has resorted to taking each other out with a suicide vest but man you guys get cranky with each other.
:kisss:
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Anyone know when Young Warriors was first climbed and by who?
Me and Arent have the second ascent from the ground to the top. It was originally done in pieces. 3rd and 4th pitch was put up years before the first and second.
So I have " Jim Opdyke and Michael Jackson and they worked on it for years... I think Ken Pasquinelli did the 3rd Pitch..."
does anyone know the year(s)?
Is there somewhere to look it up, a guidebook not in publication for Beacon perhaps?
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Climbed the original line of Right Gull today. The second pitch went fine protecting with a couple cams (see earlier post 1 page back) where the pin is now missing. This was the first time I climbed the wide hand sized crack on the far right instead of the hand crack section of Seagull on the left. Awkward in places but definitely likes 2"-3" cams. The rest of the line is fairly benign. Personally I'd recommend the Vulcan variation, the far left Seagull crack variation and adding in Muriel's Memoir for the best combination up this route.
I was looking for the Crazy Horse pitches after the short stiff section on pitch 2 of Right Gull, does anyone know where that route goes? From the ledge above where the pin popped out you can look right and see the top of Fear of Flying. Somewhere on the wall is another wide crack but I couldn't figure out what was what. I know that the thin finger crack left of the last pitch of Jill's is the upper section of Crazy Horse but wonder where the original line went.
I also started up Left Gull with a pruner but there was just way too much invasive Himalayan Blackberry stuffed in the cracks. This needs a top down effort. Anyone up for a day of cleaning and seeing if we can relink the line where that pillar fell off?
Steve - I have a fun line waiting for you if you want to get out.
There is still a stuck cam down low on Little Wing if anyone wants to go booty it.
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Anyone know when Young Warriors was first climbed and by who?
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And who might be that beastly green monster?
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Took sometime to give the internet a break and got out on Right Gull with Joseph today. I wanted to check out if the fixed piece should be replaced. Right off the belay one could place a Blue #1 MasterCam and then just above that there is a good slot for a Black #6 MasterCam or Green 0.75 Camalot. If you are experienced at placing gear then you won't have any issue. The remaining pin is only a few moves away so there is no need for any replacement of fixed gear for that pitch.
We also did some maintenance on the belay on top of Ten-A-Cee Stemming. This consisted of 2 pins or a bunch of old tat around a big block. One of the pins I funked out with one swing, easily, the other seems pretty good. But none-the-less a nice long 3/8"x6" bolt and rap hanger went in to supplement the good pin. A bit of work on the Black Berry bushes and the Old Warriors Never Die and surrounding lines should be in much better shape and this will offer a rap station should one want to descend off of Right Gull.
Lastly, I will fess up that the 100lb block that came off of Young Wieners was me. We were rapping off the second belay and it was dark. Just above the ledge to the left and above of the YW's first belay anchors I stepped on that block and it was very loose. At first I caught it with my foot enough to tip it in and give me a chance to clear the rope before it shot off into the dark. At least that time bomb is gone now.
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I heard that it was the first pin above the anchor atop the column, and if I recall correctly, that pin was previously identified on this forum (Joseph?) as one of the worst out at Beacon. A short mini-angle.
I was out there when it happened and posted on CCC about it if you want more details.
Perhaps Ivan and write up a report in that prose of his.
In the meantime we will be gluing and screwing on Beacon.
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Saturday I was back out to Wolf Rock to finish rebolting the Barad Dur line with Juan. After climbing this line a few weeks earlier and noting that there were still a few 1/4" bolts on route as well as at a couple belay stations, I thought it was time to complete the upgrade.
A number of older Leeper 1/4'ers got chopped as did the thin hanger SMC 1/4" time bombs. Some of the bolts snapped as I tried to loosen the hangers and others broke with a single hit from my hammer with maybe 50lbs force!
Any remaining 1/4" bolts are either close to newer bolts (ie. you don't need to clip them), in places where gear could be used or are located at belay stations as a third bolt (I typically use those to hang, flake & organize the rope but not much else). The route is still "sporty" in places but at least you have the same level of protection as when those older bolts were first put in.
Apart from having to climb with a couple of heavy packs of bolting gear, we had a great time on the route and made fairly good time getting back to the car in about 7 hrs including all the rebolting.
Thanks to the Portland Vicinity Re-Bolting Group, The Mazamas and the American Safe Climbing Association for their support with this project.
This 1/4'er is no longer
This old SMC now replaced with this stainless steel beasty.
Belay station with 1 x 3/8" and 2 x 1/4" bolts. That 1/4" in the center looks reasonable but with about a half turn or so the nut it snapped off in my hand.
Belay station is now bomber.
These might as well been just glued to the face...snapped with one hit of the hammer at about ~50lbs force I would estimate.
Note that these bolts protected a 40-50' run out and that the belay station below was also relying on a 1/4" bolt!
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What remains:
BLACK DIAMOND & DMM NUTS, $4/pc
BD STOPPERS #4,8,12,12
DMM WALNUT #7
WILD COUNTRY ROCKCENTRIC
#7, GOLD $5
[img:center]http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0219/9358/products/Wild-Country-Rockcentric-7.jpg[/img]
SOLD - DMM Wallnut Set + Cams
in The Yard Sale
Posted · Edited by MrGecko
PACKAGE DEAL $100
otherwise price as listed
Set of DMM Wallnuts .... $45
Sizes #1-9
Also have an extra #7 I will add so 10 nuts total.
Great condition no frayed wires or marred surfaces.
-color-coded swage help you pick the right size
-curved taper with a vertical concave slot to seat solidly in odd shaped cracks
CAMP Jet Cam .... $10
Extendable Dyneema sling
0.5 Black size range 0.49 - 0.71" (same as Metolius #1 Blue)
Wild Country Helium Cams .... $30 each
Smooth trigger action, Dyneema slings
1.5 Silver size range 0.93-1.5"
2.5 Gold size range 1.35-2.18"