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kukuzka1

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Posts posted by kukuzka1


  1. On 1/31/2021 at 9:52 AM, Michael Telstad said:

    In it's current condition there is a direct ice line that bypasses the N-rib mixed climbing and goes straight up some sweet looking alpine ice. I wish we would have taken this, as it would have shaved probably an hour or more off of our climb. I would probably give the route in these conditions AI3- M5. 

    Yeah I seen that ice line above the N face bowl too, well worth a look for future parties. Index in winter... what's not to like?


  2. Not exactly a hardman or in the 80's or in a assisted care facility yet but almost!  good job finishing the crux pitch, I had twice tried to lead it and had to leave it, although I did top rope it. It's definitely some spicy climbing. I'm surprised you didn't see any of my gear I left(probably buried)  although I liked the name I gave it a little better :)  sorry about the huge photos, not sure what happened.

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    • Like 1
    • Rawk on! 1

  3. On 8/28/2020 at 4:48 PM, bellows said:

    Are blue collar classic climbs becoming in vogue this year?  I was the 18th person of 2020 to sign the Chimney Rock summit register this past Monday!

    Looks like Smoot's to blame. People love lists

    did not read earlier comments so nevermind


  4. On 8/28/2020 at 10:21 AM, Alisse said:

    The East Ledges descent was not a problem at all and Deb and I were both scratching our heads about how it has such a nasty reputation. Maybe if you got seriously off route it could be scary? I guess it all depends on experience, exposure to exposure, etc. etc. but for us, it was no problem. All the raps pulled cleanly and nary a pebble fell upon us. We got back to the notch approximately 2 hours from leaving the summit.

    I believe in early season it's because of icy places and snow covering some of the rap stations.  Always thought of trying it in winter but never tried it. yet...


  5. On 8/27/2020 at 8:24 AM, Off_White said:

    I'm only talking duration for the sake of a grade, I agree the routes have very little in common. We don't have a seriousness grade, which is too bad, because we could discuss that endlessly too. How cool you've repeated both of those recently!

    Well Kinda do because the I-VI grades are supposed to take into account the overall seriousness of a route, but a grade solely for seriousness is true


  6. I do not know exactly where their route goes but I am guessing this is the aprox line as he mentions in the post when they emerged onto the north ridge they were surprised they missed the access gully to the upper north ridge and they were close to the gendarme. I think I have seen photo with some steep good ice in the lower ridge. PHOTO CREDIT ED COOPER   Also at the base of the gendarme they finished on the NE face

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    • Like 1

  7. On 8/21/2020 at 7:01 AM, Off_White said:

    I was just looking at that in the guidebook yesterday and wondering the same thing! In Beckey anyway it reads like the route to do up there on that face, though maybe the '65 line would also be fun.  Has that hanging glacier receded and become less scary over time?  Also, got any more pictures from that climb? I'd love to see 'em.

     

    I have not been up there in a long time but at that time it (July 92) was cruiser up and we went down that way and there was a little rockfall, definitely not a place to linger, I believe we were un-roped. I'll check for some photos. Only a summit photo found.

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    • Like 1

  8. 18 hours ago, kmfoerster said:

    Perhaps next time, it'll be a while... Thanks for the recommendation, that part of the face is intriguing.

    I know the right most routes get pretty bad reviews but the 1963 route had good rock/pro and a few really nice 5.7ish pitches right before you hit the perm-snow up high. we did it c2c in about 14 hrs

    • Like 1
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