Frankazoid
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Posts posted by Frankazoid
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I could see it becoming a worthy destination if people put some work into it.
Well there ya have it.
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My 9.8 has taken tons of abuse. I put my ropes through a lot! I dont think you need a monster 10. something... I lead with it, lower on it, rap with it, jug it, explore through dirtyness with it (don't take that one the wrong way... And it's still solid.
For a climbing only rope, my next buy will be a petzl 9.2.
I have lead a few pitches with my friends 9.2 and love it. It's hard to tell it's even there. So- if you want something that can take some abuse i would check out the 9.8's out there.
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Of course i'm in! Lets do it!
Ben,
can you make it fri, sat or sun? I have a chainsaw (which) can be brought out later if needed), handsaws, loppers, hand pruners... A new trail would be absolutley Scrumtrelescent! Lets find that damn thing!
Eric,
you still hyped?
-Frank
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dude!! Thats gnarly!
Well, if it was solid chunks, then the person probably should have been able to control it. Seeing as it was more on the juicy side it could have been unexpected for the person. I'd bet they took a shit before roping up too... Sounds like they were having a bad day too. Anyhow, that's how shit goes sometimes eh? Would of been cool if they fixed the rope, and returned with multiple gallons of water do dilute it. I dont blame em for having to squirt there, but at least make an effort to clean it up!
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Sweet! That flake doesn't look like it belongs in eastern wa, eh? I was climbing at deep creek (spokane) that weekend. original plan was to go to Marcus and China Bend, but the locals were saying it was super wet. Have yet to make it to Banks!
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I was out there almost 2 years ago. Let me get the story straight though- I never did make it there. I feel confident that I would be able to make it next time though. I would be interested in going out there sometime. I'll catch ya on whatever, maybe climb the 11's myself. Iv'e got a nightmare wrist that is acting up again so... I'm available this coming thurs-sun. PM me if your interested. Are you good with a compass? Once you know how to get there, it won't tkae as long for future trips. it's a relitivly short distance.
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park where the book says at 14. something miles, but then hike up the clear cut on the opposite side of the road (right side if driving in) and you can see across the river and get a view of the monster cave. That will be neccassary to get your barings, most definetly. now, either draw a straight line and go for it (which is what I would reccomend) or try to navigate it some other way. It is a serious mission- don't give up! There is NO trail and the creeks back there change the landscape often. I have had two failed attempts because I didnt draw a straight line. I would reccomend bringing water shoes, or surfing booties for the river crossing. If the river is too deep you may have to go the long way around further down the road and cross the bridge, park, traverse back in and up. There is still an OLD rope hanging down from the lip of the cave and that thing is most definetly garbagio. actually now that I think about it- I think you drive to the next clearcut past where you would normaly park and hike up that clearcut to get a view... (only 10 secs drive and 5 min walk up the hill)
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Ya, Ao Nang is kinda touristy and lame IMHO... Lame only because its so damn tourist packed. Ao Nang really is just a hub to go to other places like all the islands and tonsai/railay. If you can climb 6c-7c I would reccomend hanging out in chong plee for a couple days at spirit mtn. Ask the shops at Tonsai about it, or look it up on on rockclimbing.com or mountainproject.com for general directions. If you run into my friend Mike Weitzman who lives in chong plee, you might get to bolt some new routes with him if interested. Theres also another wall near spirit mtn called bon voyage wall. We put a few routes up there too. Basicly I would rent a shack at spirit mtn, eat in the village, climb, eat in the village, climb, sleep, repeat. Its off the beaten path so you will get a localized experience if you want one. Maybe try and talk some Tonsai people into coming out too... all in all, when you leave tonsai on the boat the crag is only 25 mins away. Drive around the farm lands and look at the dozens of unclimbed karsts with full on arches on your rest days... Rent a motorbike in Ao Nang. Ohhh I can't wait to go back!
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When you get to Thailand make sure to step away from tonsai for a couple days and visit spirit mountain only 15 minutes inland from Ao Nang. New routes. High quality stone that rivals tonsai and is not polished. Ask about the place when you get there. Spirit mountain is in the village of Chong Plee just up the road from Ao Nang. Make the land owners happy and rent a bungalow that they built for the climbers. quality toilet rooms, with showers too. cheap, and localized. get away from the madness of tonsai, and all the damn euros!
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I didn't heard about the fruit boots before. Can you post some of its pics??
Michelle, here is an assortment of fruit boot photos. I have always refered to roller blades as fruit boots, and was unaware of the ice climbing version until now...
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So limestone in the gallations as well as gneiss? Nice!
I am definetly interested in checking out bozeman pass. I have heard of limestone around helena, but there is a lot of driving one could do...... I'll take yall's advice and ask at the shop.
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Thanks David. I'll give that a shot!
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Heading to Montana soon and i'm trying to find beta on sport crags... i'm having trouble finding out anything besides whats on mountainproject.com. The state is huge and has mountains and hills- theres gotta be more sport crags. What gives? I heard of limestone hills south of Townsend, MT. Know anything about Townsend area limestone?
Also, I will be in the Great Falls area for most of my stay.
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global warming baby! I would expect similar weather patterns in years to come.
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Thanks Josh.
Ben must be having a blast up there... I would imagine he might often have the place to himself.
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Nice, thanks for the link C'climb.
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when it is raining at smith are there any particular walls or routes that stay dry (up to low 12's)? If I go this weekend it'll be my first trip.
aren't pretty much ALL 5.12's dry when it rains?
That would be nice.... unfortunetly, no.
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And how about the Horne Lake crags on Vancouver Island? anybody been there? I know it has very steep climbs...
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Smith will be dry, I often climb there with 80% chance of rain in forecast and do fine.
I hope so!
when it is raining at smith are there any particular walls or routes that stay dry (up to low 12's)? If I go this weekend it'll be my first trip.
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Any "dry" ideas out there for the 4 day weekend?
Leavenworth, NE Washington, skaha, smith, lovers leap, castle crags (CA) are all going to be wet apparently.
Red rocks looks like it will be nice, but 34 hours of driving doesnt work well with a 4 day weekend
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Okay so I know this was recently discussed somewhere on here but I could not find the thread.
Who is the other shoe cobbler besides cascade cobbler and dave page? started with an "R" I thought? Need to resole some shoes asap...
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If the group is larger than 12 they should get popped by the USFS for violating the Wilderness Act.
The Tooth is not in any wilderness area.
When the south face is gummed up with big parties (which is quite frequent IME), drop around the corner and do the SW Face. Fun climbing that's no harder than 5.5, with lots of room for variations. The N ridge is also a consolation if you aren't into the adventure of the SW or W face routes.
Im surprised that didn't get mentioned earlier... people always assume the tooth is in wilderness.
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yep the arete is pure joy
wish I had remembered to take photos of it- and the jugs at the top. next time.Glad you were able to climb such a great piece of stone with your finger injury Rad.
I need rope advice!
in Newbies
Posted
Well said! A friend of mine buy's a 9.2 once a year, but climbs 4 days a week- working hard routes and taking lots of whips. If your not putting your rope through hell 208 days a year, then buy a skinny and enjoy the weightlessness and easy clipping for quite some time.