Frankazoid
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Posts posted by Frankazoid
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Nice gym but the clips are literally twelve inches apart on the leads in some spots. At many places they are 18". Hard to get into a flow and get into the movement of climbing.
So then to maintain your flow you can clip every 36 or 48'' if you like, eh?
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Im looking foward to seeing what Wednesday morning will look like after the smoke clears... Today was quite a bit different than forecasted. Snowing steady from 9-1pm when I left. I can't speak for this afternoon and evening- Kevin?
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Quite possible for a mon or tues chair 2 opening.
Iv'e heard rumors of the weekend, but my feeling is it will be later than that.
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2 inches of snow in the X38 parking lots, and you can pretty much call it 2' at the top of chair 2. There's a good chance it will be double that by Friday!
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I thought this was about Boing resorts and how they own Alpental and no longer let people park campers for the winter season in lot 3. Well, you can still do it- it just costs $15 per night, lol! The hours and wage I receive there doesnt really make renting a room doable. If im working for them they should at least let me park my rig in the lot! You can have the thread back now...
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Yo Rad-
Excellent work sending that thing man. It was cool to see you persevere through the mental (and physical) challenges on that thing! Do you have any more detailed beta for that pitch? lol.
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Joseph,
I have heard of that before and ummm... ya that doesn't sound very awesome. Heard of people being dropped with the cinch, then last year I witnessed 2 climbers in the RRG getting dropped with a cinch. seriously, 1 at the boneyard crag and 1 at the solarium. Both times the belayer managed to stop the free fall too close to the deck (lucky at all though). My friend had also told me some of his accounts with it that he didn't like. I just don't think i'll ever be able to get a cinch. Thanks for the ideas, but im definetly going to stick with the M-T for fixed rope soloing. I might even do the double M-T setup! Based on the research iv'e done up until this point, it seems to me that the easiest method to switch to lower is to throw the gri on a second fixed line beside you, weight it and let the MT's roll free. After messing with it, it is quite pain free and quick. So I guess now that would be my own answer to anybody else with this question! Definetly interesting though to hear how other people are ropesoloing.
I guess I should also add that I do use a loose kleimheist above the M-T for a backup.
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So iv'e been rope soloing for a bit now with a mini traxion and I always find it a bitch to switch to rappel... it usually involves multiple steps before im off the mini traxion and rapping. When your trying to go up and down over and over to work out moves on a route its really a hassel. Does anyone know of an easy way to work up and down the rope when using a mini t?
The only thing iv'e thought of is to switch onto the other fixed rope with the gri gri, take on that, the mini T is now freed of its tension and can be unlocked, then lower on the gri gri... Maybe there is something even easier?
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Cool! Is the Oregon Mt. Baker near the Oregon Olympic National Forest?
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Yes, perhaps I should practice diplomacy...
Really just wanted to let people know that some dude put a lot of bolts in some really shitty rock up there, and to be careful. Bolts in hollow faces, dectatched flakes, huecos etc... Almost no cleaning/trundling. If this crag were down at the main area the bolts would have been removed very quickly. I ran into a couple guys who were at the crag while the "developer" was there, and they said he was calling routes that climbed like a mid-11 a 12+ etc... apparently some dude with money for bolts, a drill, and too much time on his hands. That was their opinion too. If you go the zoo I would probably stick with the original lines there and stay away from the dozens of shiny fixe hangers. Just to stay safe. Of course he won't respond to my post and say "it's me!!". I'll have to work on better style when attempting to call someone out.
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Hey there,
Trying to get a hold of the person who put up quite a few new lines at the Zoo crag at Smith.
Is your name Kevin by chance?
I definetly have a few questions for you... The first one being, what were you thinking? Why did you think the rest of that rock needed to be developed? There is a reason the person who first developed that crag only put up a few routes. There is some serious safety related things going on there that you must not have considered too.
Thanks,
Frank
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I know that the route "Giant 11c" in the actual cave (x38) see's signifigant traffic from people wanting to get on their first super steep climb. Those bolts were looking kind of not so awesome last time I was there. The location of a couple of them could be moved too. A closer 2nd bolt would elimnate mega pendulum death when failing to clip the 2nd bolt. There certainly is a high potential for that.
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cant figure out how to upload my photos...
July had some good skiing at logan pass, then 5 feet of snow melted in 2 weeks. I didn't do any skiing on my last trip. Instead I just hiked down to Hidden Lake which was amazing. Kevino- stoked your getting turns in the Alpental area. I wish I was there. Anybody hear the predictions for the winter coming up? Iv'e searched the internet and cant really find anything.
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Just wondering where my fellow WA skiers are getting there turns in...
I have been working in great falls MT for a couple months, and on my one day off a week I am able to drive to Logan Pass at Glacier NP and get some good lines. Lots of snow at Logan Pass. Come join me on Sundays if you can! I'll try to remember to put a TR together for this coming sunday's trip. Im going to ski what I beleive to be Mt. Clements.
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I think going climbing is important for people who like climbing.
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pm sent...
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well i just bought some new planks butt'uh...how much? which skis/size? small or large dukes?
-Frank
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im guessing most people wouldnt want to sell their dukes...
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Looking to buy dukes. My alpine boots are 27.5/28 so would that be a small or large model in the duke? Im assuming small.
Thanks!
-Frank
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the 11c flared crack thats east of the other routes might need some scrubbin inside the crack. It looks light a fun tr. too bad its even closer to the freeway than the other routes.
Behind funforest is another lone block with a few routes, including a short chimney thing and a hard, but good looking flared finger crack/seam. The bolted route that starts under a mini roof /bulge is also really fun- on the main block. I think that route gets climbed more than anything else there. On that route you can go straight up through the bolts to make it harder, or start traversing up and left with some small gear after you pull the bulge- finishing on far left anchors.
Fun forest is one of my favorite spots for some chill- low commitment climbing. Have fun!
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Things should be in good shape... just give it a few days of sun before attempting. Fee demo wall now becomes dry after 2 days of sunny weather (and it is north facing).
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Very accurate to say its a bit like index. The climbs and the grades. The stone is some of the best in the area, and different than most of 38. I climbed Free Radical, and thought it was one of the best aretes iv'e been on in a while.
If you have the time, I suggest you take Rad up on his offer.
Rad, do you have a topo in the works?
stolen -trail equipment
in Climber's Board
Posted
I must say I was happy to see the NW Trails people pull there monster equipment out of the rainy lake trail in the middlefork last year. Still havent figured out why we need 4 lane highways stomped through our forests. Less time consuming and invasive to just use hard work with picks, shovels, saws, hard rakes and rock bars. In no way am I condoning the theft though. That is sad.