Dave A.
-
Posts
108 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Dave A.
-
-
I had climbed the North Ridge. For your scenario of a nice day climb I would suggest you have them climb the West Ridge. The somewhat common mistake of getting into Ulrich's Couloir on the descent instead of the Cascadian could easily put them on your sloping ledge. Dave
-
Spooning is the best way to conserve heat,at least half of each of you is warm. If it comes to saving your life you spoon with anyone available. I think the ten essentials part was right on, most of us don't carry what's on the published lists. Since there's nothing to burn up there your lighter and firestarter is pretty much useless, once you're done burning your map. I'd rather have a bivy jacket and someone to cuddle with.My last unplanned bivy was on Mt. Stuart, a couple hundred feet above the Cascadian Couloir.
-
Rock Climbs of Central Washington by Rick LaBelle shows climbing at Goose Lake near the potholes. The book was published by Mountain Gear in Spokane and should be available though them. If you don't mind hitchhiking you're close to climbing at Frenchman Coulee (Vantage) and Banks Lake. Dave A.
-
I've been using the Canon A1100IS for over a year now. For me the deciding factors were it uses AA batteries (readily available,easy to replace on long trips) and the optical viewfinder ( old man eyes can't see the screen).Easy to use, pictures are fine , works in the cold.I can turn it on with my gloves on and I don't baby it and i've never had any trouble with it. I sometimes wish it had a wide angle lens , but it is a point and shoot; the zoom works fine. I'm a certified techno-idiot,if I can make it work, anybody can. Dave A.
-
If I were single and lived close by it might be a chance to meet some hot chicks.
-
I like that idea.I'd certainly order some.
-
People name these climbs because they enjoy talking about them and sharing their fun with others.Since it appears you don't share these interests maybe you might find another place to spew. If you don't have anything helpful to say (like "self-sroking douche fest") STFU. Dave A.
-
Personally I like the idea of two pair of shell pants. One would be a quality sturdy pair for longer trips when you know you'll be needing them. The arcteryx beta would be a good pair IMO. For shorter trips or in fine weather a lighter pair of packable would be the best option. They wont be as durable as your high-dollar pair but they will be fine for just in case. Some people don't like the full zips due to weight, but I don't like removing my boots in a rainstorm. The Marmot Precip is a good buy, somewhere in the last day or 2 I saw them on sale(maybe Sierra Trading Post?) Dave A.
-
Beckey mentions a 5.3 route up the south face, but no pictures or topo. A quick google search yielded a trip report with no photos but described the route as directly below the summit. The face looks pretty friendly in your photo,shouldn't be much trouble finding a reasonable route.
-
Absolutely agree- Soul of the heights is probably my favorite photo book. High Rocks and Ice by Ira Spring is another excellent book of Cascades photos.Tom Millers 1964 The North Cascades covers the Ptarmigan Traverse and is the inspiration for Bob Kandikos book.Chessler books has several copies available for under $100 (used, of course). I'm sure that would be a cherished gift for any Wash. climber.
-
This site has at least 1/2 doz. trip reports on Ptarmigan- Google gives you dozens more.You can preview the book( every page) on the blurb.com website. I can't imagine anyone that enjoys photos of the North Cascades being disappointed in this book.
-
The title of the book listed above from blurb.com is North Cascades Traverses by Bob Kandiko. I ordered mine last week and it arrived in 3 or 4 days. The book is fantastic, highly recommended. Dave A.
P.S. I suspect a lot of people will be using this for a ticklist. All the routes look great.
-
Mission Ridge had peaks of 120 yesterday afternoon. I've seen it as high as 138, was up there one year when the average for the hour was in the 80's, peak was 135. Snowboarding was difficult to say the least.
-
Agreed, Adams in July would be your best bet. With your limited schedule I would suggest making it to the campground by the night before your climb. 6,000 ft.of elev.gain and 8 mi. each way can be done in a day if you start an hour or two before sunup. You should be back to camp by dark.I did it at age 50 and i'm not near as fit as many posters on this site. You youngsters should be alright. Make sure you're ready to bail if you're taking too long. Really though, you'd be better off if you allowed more time.Don't forget your camera and keep moving steady.
-
For some nice photos,trip reports and maps of the skiing on Mt. Cashmere try wenatcheeoutdoors.org. Look at guidebooks-skiing, also photos. Dave A.
-
Yes, that is Ulrich's Couloir.
-
This question has been asked numerous times, and the best answer I've seen is get up when everybody else gets up (god-awful early),and try to leave after two guided groups and ahead of a couple guided groups. The guides will have a nice route picked out that should be "safe". You'll certainly want to practice your self rescue techniques, you can anchor off a post or doorknob and practice pulley set-ups.
-
-
I've had the same experience. My mountain boots are shorter than my highbacks so there is some discomfort. Since I spend hours going up for minutes going down it's not that big a deal, and it's way better than packing extra pounds of boots and the hassle of changing top and bottom of every run. More important is taking the time to make sure the bindings are properly fit to the boot.
-
John, is Abe's nose Lincoln Rock by Rocky Reach Dam?
-
Sounds like BOB wall. 5 or 6 short climbs with walkoff sraight up or off to the left? If so it's in Leavenworth Rock.
-
I have to agree with Dane's statements regarding length of time needed to assess a coat. If you tried out every coat for a year with manufacturers constantly making changes you'd be comparing this years offering by company A to last years offering by company B; by the time you'd reviewed 5 jackets The first would be hopelessly out of date. I recently bought a coat, I tried everything I could find that was close to what I was looking for, but not more than a few minutes on any given garment. I think this is typical shopping for most of us. We drop 100's of dollars on items we have never really tried in the field. When reading reviews for anything, be it clothing, electronics, music or whatever you must take into account your faith in the reviewer. If you don't trust them, don't read the review. Personally I appreciate Dane's well thought out and researched reviews.
-
Mark, I've been very pleased with the BD Spot headlamp, $40 list and worth it in my opinion. I've seen it on sale for $30. In a recent Mountain Gear catalog in the center clearance section are Omega Pacific screws @ $31.50 buying 4 or more. This price doesn't show up online, you might have to call in and talk to a person. I've never used these screws but the price is certainly good for a new screw. Haireball or others could probably advise.
-
From Jeff Lowe's "Ice World": "Using 70cm bamboo-shafted Chouinard axes and prototype Snargs my brother Greg had made specially for us, Mike and I free-climbed through the brittle bulges,insubstantial pillars, and numerous overhangs. In the conditions of the first ascent, and climbed free, the route was WI6+."
Book help needed
in Climber's Board
Posted
P.S. For your backcountry ski trip the safety kit referred to generally contains a delightful green herb, a brass or glass utensil, and a Bic. I assume you don't carry such things while skiing with your kids, and didn't know if you knew what they were referring to. The kit is usually used at "safety meetings".