Dave A.
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Posts posted by Dave A.
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Road is open. You will find little to no snow. For the ice climbers nothing is in that I could see. Drove up as far as Hubba Hubba and walked up to the Millenium Walls today.
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My recollection is the climbing gym lost their lease due to expansion/remodel at the airport and were unable to find a suitable replacement location.
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The tree would be on the ledge below, climbers left of the start of the last short pitch of R&D (and directly below the rap bolts on top). The crack between the flake and the main wall directly behind the tree is not really suitable for protecting as the flake is quite rotten. As the SAR deputies don't climb, and CCMR's limited pool of volunteers is usually climbing somewhere out of phone range bolted anchors are a reasonable solution.
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The two rap bolts on top were placed for rescuers to access the ledge below. There are also more bolts behind the large tree on that ledge. The Chelan Co. Sheriffs office does practices there and rescues from that ledge average one per year. The large tree has become somewhat shaky and is no longer suitable for use as an anchor.
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Thank you.
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I would be happy to help out if you need a belayer or whatever. PM me and I'll give you my phone # and e-mail. I'm in Wenatchee.
Dave
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Self-belay with prusiks would be impractical and time consuming. Climbing with two ropes and the second following the third works OK. Typically the second does no leading, the first and third swing leads to avoid restacking the ropes. Climbing on doubles as Genepires recommends is usually the best and most efficient way.
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Never had any problems when flying Seattle to Vegas for climbing at Red Rocks. Ditto what Steve said about watching weight in your checked luggage.
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A recent trip report on Mt. Cashmere mentioned that the summit register was gone. I've seen a number of similar reports this year here and on nwhikers. Anybody have any idea why someone would do this?
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Nice TR, beautiful photos! Those upper meadows are lusher this year than I've ever seen them.
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Brent, welcome to the site. I would like to thank you and your fellow rescuers for the work you do. I was involved in the incident on Aasgard Pass last month. The corpsman who went under the snow to retrieve the victim, risking hypothermia in the cold and wet conditions, is a hero in my opinion. Definitely above and beyond the call of duty, and deserving of some sort of commendation.
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P.S.Leavenworth Mountain Sports or Der Sportsman might still have a copy of 75 Scrambles in WA. nwhikers.net would almost certainly have trip reports, usually with maps, for anything I've seen mentioned here.
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Mt. Cashmere is a good one. Mt. Stuart is not really a day hike from the Leavenworth side, and is strenuous from the Teanaway for a noob. Mastiff and/or Howard leaving from the Merritt Lake trailhead would be a good introductory scramble. Wedge Mt. is one of my favorites,fantastic views into the Enchantments, but finding the trailhead can be a little iffy for some people.Grindstone Mt. off the Chatter Creek trail is fun, the road closure adds a few extra miles but it does give your body a chance to ease into hiking before you start uphill. All in all I'd say Mastiff or Wedge would be the best intoductory scramble.
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I couldn't help but find some humor in Raindawg's post- "As they say... scroll on by if you don't want to read it." Wouldn't
that be kinda like climbing on by the bolt without clipping it or strolling past the offending crag and climbing somewhere else?
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Don't plan on using the garda hitch without practicing first. I've tried using it several times in self-rescue practice and never found it easy to use. I finally decided I just don't like it and won't use it unless I can't figure out something else.
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I've got three of the Spots. I like them. I'd recommend them to anybody.
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Try buying "Freedom ofthe Hills". It will answer many of the questions you have posted on this and other websites. Also, browse the archived threads on this and other sites, all your questions have been thoroughly discussed many times.
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How old are the kids?
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The location is in the thread title. Leavenworth Mountain Sports. In Leavenworth. Dave A.
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I agree with genepires, agree more with DPS. Girls are fun. It looks to me like the whole group was having fun. I've not climbed in the Snoq. pass area, from the freeway it looks as though there must be other objectives in the neighorhood. If you have your heart set on climbing the Tooth (or Ingalls or any other popular beginners climb) maybe you could check their websites to see if they will be there that day. I spend a lot of time up the Icicle. If there are a lot of cars below an area I either move on or go ahead and walk up so I can talk to the pretty girls.
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Thanks, Genepires. You expressed what I was thinking much better than I did. Whenever a newbie asks about a climb the answer is usually to get some insruction. Mountaineers,etc. are the most reasonable option for most people. I was fortunate to meet some great mentors. Not everyone is so lucky.
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So if the easy routes just off a major freeway are for only the hardcore Cascade Climbers where would you like to see the newbies go?
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Quit your whining. A group of 10 in the Snoq. Pass area is hardly excessive. If solitude is your desire head deeper into the mountains.
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Weight is not the only, or even the most important cosideration in a pair of crampons. If you do wind up on some rocky terain you will dull your aluminum crampons quickly. Aluminum will not penetrate hard ice like steel, a short section of hard ice in the middle of some crusty snow can end your trip, or worse.
2011/12 Washington Ice Conditions
in Ice Climbing Forum
Posted
Drove up the road as far as Hubba Hubba, nothing even close. Walked up to Millenium walls, nothing there. Too lazy to continue up to check out Nada Falls.