Moonlight

Anyone know what the bolted line is just to the right (slightly around the corner) from the climb 9999 (5.6) is at the Southern Tip in Smith Rock? Didn't look like it was in the guide book, and couldn't find a reference online. Guessing in the 5.9 to 5.10a range? Fun climb - just curious what it is....

It was great meeting you on the cliff-side! Beautiful day to be up on the mountain, our first time on the West Ridge. Here's a couple of pics that we took of ya. A little like where's waldo - you're up in the top middle

We were up on Saturday and ended up climbing Castle. The road is completely cleared but not yet open to Reflection. The snow in the lower portion above Reflection was pretty loose, even with snow shoes we wallowed a bit. Conditions were better higher up in the bowl and better packed. The 4 inch layer of fresh snow sloughed and slid a bit on the crust below.

We climbed Mist Falls yesterday morning - a route on climbers left. Not too bad, we were able to get a couple screws in. Middle and right looked a little thin yesterday morning - and there was some ice fall coming down from above that was hitting the middle and right climbs (and a little bit on the left). Lots of spray with the wind, we got pretty wet. Still can't beat climbing close to home!

Great summary - it was such an amazing trip and spectacular way to start the season! Can't wait to keep exploring new areas - thanks for the introduction to Hyalite!(the wife

Trip: Mt. Adams - Mazama Glacier/Headwall Date: 7/16/2010 Trip Report: Though easy to see from Portland, I'd never taken the opportunity to climb Adams. Since I was travelling back from work on Friday, we decided to split the climb up between Saturday and Sunday. Steve did some route investigating and found a potential alternative to the main route where it would likely be quite crowded. Instead we opted to go up the Mazama glacier and hit the headwall just before the false summit. Since the parking lot on that side wasn’t yet open, it did require some traversing from the main trail over. We weren’t sure if we could get through higher, or if there were cornices, so we chose a path that would stay fairly low around the mountain. However, as we were crossing ridges we ended up climbing up until we decided it was better to continue up and look for a way across rather than go back down. We ended up crossing on the Gotchen glacier to get across to the Mazama glacier. Topo shows in red the route we went, yellow the route we should have went, and green the route back down. We left the parking lot about 5:30, and arrived at camp at about 8,000 ft on the left side of the glacier at about 9:00 – spent some time route finding. We found a great bivy spot with some rocks blocking the wind and some nice flat snow. Headed up in the early morning on the Mazama glacier. The route was straight-forward, pretty much just point uphill along the most obvious line. There were a couple of crevasses open, but they were easy to see and avoidable. We roped up, but the snow felt really solid and the snow bridges were good. Right before the false summit we decided to veer right and do a bit of the steep headwall. Since we were already roped up, we set a couple pickets, mostly to stop a slide into the bergshrund below, but I think otherwise we both would have been uncomfortable unroped. We could have gone further right for a longer headwall pitch – but my legs were already feeling it, so I pushed to head on up. From there we followed the main route to the summit, and some fabulous glissade trails all the way back down the mountain. All in all a fun trip – and pretty isolated! Few more pictures check here.

Hey, I heard that!!

Climbed Tanner Creek Falls on Saturday - made it out before the bad road conditions hit and had I-84 all to ourselves on the way back. Great Climbing! Climbed the first three falls (third fall was pretty wet). First Tier Second Tier Third Tier Right Side Third Tier Left Side

The person who led will be glad to to hear its closer to 11.b - he got a little frustrated with the crux. We didn't get to Y'ar - we ran out of daylight and didn't have headlamps , evil winter season! Sounds like you guys get out to Ozone quite a bit? We climbed about once a week all summer after work, now we're down to the occasional weekend. Definitly our fav local crag. I guess its back to garage bouldering for the winter...

There were three of us with only one rope - so one person led Rolling Thunder, the second followed, then we threw down the rope to the third person who climbed Jacob's Ladder. For the second pitch, we actually led Burrito Killa, and then top roped Tipp Topp.

Did Tipp Topp on Saturday. Fun but needs some brush cut part way up the crack - maybe next time!

That's really cool to hear that it was one of the first climbs, it seems to be an awesome climb - we've been climbing several of the mid-grade trad routes out there this summer. I noticed the other day that someone had also done some work on Siddhartha too, its just still a bit dirty, but getting better. The routes just need some traffic to keep them clean. And I agree the start is definitely a stout 5.9, but a really fun sequence!

Good to keep in mind - this was using a soft bristle brush to sweep the dirt off that had collected on ledges and in the crack from above. Wasn't really much lichen on this route - just a bush growing out of the crack that had taken over. What do you consider the preferred method for lichen removal?

Just wanted to let folks know that Redhorn Gate (5.9 - Gear to 4") on Middle Earth at Ozone was cleaned the other day. Its definitely climbable but slightly dirty and could still use another brushing. Tree in middle of crack gone, moss scrubbed, dirt brushed off. Hope it can see some traffic to stay clean!