d_sowerby

I haven't been up there in years, so don't know if there's any new stuff. The obvious bolted prow I did and the route behind you as you look at it was done by Gary Rall. Ok climbing in a nice setting. Worth going up there at least once. :-)

thanks mksportn, hope you do send it. I assume the "downgrade" was tongue in cheek :-). I think that in a few years you might change your mind and think "well I did it before the roof bolt". Enjoy Chimney Rocks - especially the prow.

in reply to the last part of your message: So when I climbed up "Angle" the first time, I wasn't going for a "true" onsight? That's interesting - I thought I was. Yes Ozone has lots of bolts - so? Maybe there's room there for a challenge? Something that doesn't involve just hanging off a bolt? I got a good cam placement near the old fixed piece (11/2 friend - I think) and probably could have got more gear there.

I'm against the bolt. All the ascents so far have not needed one. We all risked the groundfall, because obviously the fixed piece was indeed a POS. We trusted the cam we placed as you have so far. Only you know if it's worth the risk. If it's not -- don't do the climb.

thanks Bill, don't have a cast on, the plate means as long as I don't do anything really stupid (climb) I don't need one. 4 weeks today since the break, another week or so and maybe I'll try some .10's at Ozone to see how it feels. Any longer than that and I'll go crazy. So you have another week or so to outclimb me :-) This is Oregon and loose rock is the norm - sadly. re the bolts, I just expect the ones I clip to be in the right place, put in there correctly. If I think they're too far apart I don't do the route or sack-up and don't fall off. ---------------------dave

thanks joseph. At least with the plate in the arm I can do without a cast so am more mobile and hopefully won't lose much fitness. Gotta keep trying to keep up with the young'uns. Just noticed I wrote "Tom" - duh! sorry Tim. ---------dave

yeah shit happens sometimes. Three weeks ago I was checking out a new crag with Tom O. when my rope dislodged a 50-60 lb block 10 ft above me. Just enough time to get my arms up to protect my head. The wounds on the left arm are almost healed and the right now has a 5" scar where they operated to set the bone and add a metal plate. Probably would have killed me if not for quick reactions. Another 3 weeks before I can get back to climbing, ho hum! Be careful out there --------------dave

all the fixed draws are necessary - that's why they're fixed :-) We're trying to get all the webbing replaced with chain - but it takes time and money. After all there's only about 10 of us who climb there. ----------------dave

sounds like you're doing pretty much everything you should. How about short falls onto your gear? Put in a bomber piece and move above it and let your belayer know what you're up to and fall off. Confidence building. Obviously back up the pro and don't do it where you'll hit the deck :-) Some areas take multiples of certain sizes, you tend to build up a rack to suit your chosen area. I like to go with a double set of nuts Wild Country and DMM, maybe even triples in the mid sizes. How about not placing the obvious size of nut/cam and instead look around for the not so obvious? If looking ahead it looks like I'll need a lot of say the larger stuff, then I'll start looking for for smaller placements right now and save the bigger stuff. Practice makes perfect, good luck ------------------dave

You're kidding right? Keep the hexes, get rid of most of the larger tri-cams, or as suggested kill something with them. As most have said you have a more than adequate rack for most things you're likely to try. Without a mentor/teacher it sounds like you're being pretty sensible about learning the basics. Be safe ------------dave

Different crag, but in the same area. couple of miles apart. They are on different sides of the same ridge. -------dave

I would need a bit more info about the line, but lacking that I would invest in some 1/4inch bolts. A skyhook is also handy. Is it pocketed limestone? then nuts and cams. Get the first bolt ( 1/4" or 3/8" ) in as high as you can safely reach, then alternate, try and work out clipping stances as you go. 1/4" bolts can be removed or tapped all the way in afterwards. You can get quite a reach from aiders - the 3/8" bolts will be about 6-8ft apart. Down bolting is probably the least successful. Have fun --------------dave

the "verifiable facts" referred to my comments about Kevin's need for more bolts and Joseph placing them. Nothing else. :-) ----------------dave

I didn't "place" them, but merely rebolted existing anchors. My gig didn't involve more than that and if were up to me personally, which it wasn't, a raft of them would be gone. Joseph I know what the anchors were like at Beacon, and over 15 yrs ago we tried to convince Jim et al to replace them with Metolius Rap anchors - no go. The anchors were a mess, rusty bolts, pitons, webbing looped everywhere. Just waiting for the Parks to say what the fuck is this shit hanging all over the wall? Finally the place is getting fixed up, about time. Thank you. People will bitch but as Bill said - They'll clip 'em Kevin - read the last line of my post. ------------dave

Hey, just say the word and I'd be more than happy to pull those anchors and any number of other climbs where they are clearly unnecessary... well there is a certain irony to this argument, don't you think? Kevin (who thinks that all climbs at Broughton need more bolts) arguing that his beloved YW has to many bolts, with Joseph (who seems to be anti-bolt and anti-sportclimbing) who placed them. Sweet irony Disclaimer: This email may contain no verifiable facts. The said email may in fact have been sent merely to annoy. ----------------dave