[Mixed training crags?]

A good place to go in the rain too (and get wet).

 

Was there in the rain today. Any more beta on the Mt. Baker area (not sure where the mixed place is at) or anywhere known that is closer to Bellingham?

 

Thanks

[[TR] Prusik Peak - West Ridge 9/9/2010]

Whats up guys. I ran into you on the boulder field and top of aasgard. Nice work getting it done.

 

Hey. We were talking about your pizza and beer on our hike back haha.

[[TR] Prusik Peak - West Ridge 9/9/2010]

SummitChaser,

 

After the Class 3 ledge I went straight up to the summit. It felt a little stiff to me.

[[TR] Prusik Peak - West Ridge 9/9/2010]

Trip: Prusik Peak - West Ridge

 

Date: 9/9/2010

 

Trip Report:

Josh had spent the good months of the summer down in the Dirty, Oily, South saving our shores from the BP Oil spill so we made plans to get out and do something this week. After most of our ideas got rained or snowed out we decided to try Prusik Peak.

Thursday Josh and I left the Sky Valley at 5:45 we were hoping to get to Leavenworth to get a permit for the Enchantments. Hoping that the weather lately had deterred people from coming out. Once again we were wrong and there is not much that keeps people from the Enchantments. We didn’t get drawn for the Enchantments but we were able to get a permit for Colchuck.

After a quick stop at Mc Donald’s we were off up the Icicle. We started up the trail at 9am. We got news from a pair of backpackers that the weather was not favorable and there was about six inches of snow at the pass. We thought that maybe we were just in for a backpacking trip and continued up the trail.

We set up camp in the boulder field and were off for Prusik Peak at 12. We figured we would just hike to Prusik pass and re-evaluate the conditions and see what we wanted to do. We reached the bottom of the West Ridge Route at 3:30 in about 6” of snow. We decided that we should give the route a shot and started climbing at 4:00.

The climb went well the roughest part was the 5.7 slab with no protection and I took a more direct route to the summit that felt a lot harder than 5.7 (It could have been a mixture of the snow, freezing temps and the 20-30 MPH winds).

After a quick summit shot we started down. During the raps I started to show signs of mild hypothermia, always a fun time. Josh ended the last rappel with head lamp and I scrambled half way up the first pitch to get his shoes and at about 8:00 out of the wind we went. Once back in the basin it warmed up to about 37 and the wind was gone we caught our second wind and headed for Aasgard Pass. Going was slow, we were both pretty exhausted. We got to the pass at about 10:00.

It seemed as though it took us longer to go down the pass in the dark then it did coming up. We got to the boulder field at about 12:00. I set up the tent and Josh went to go get water. Josh opted out of dinner, I had some Mountain House lasagna and warm Gatorade, MMMMMMM. The temps at the lake were about 40 degrees and the tent was cozy.

The next morning we sat on top of a boulder in the sun watched about 30 people go by. Admiring peoples boulder hoping abilities and finishing off some PBR’s that we didn’t feel like drinking the night before but couldn’t fathom dumping out.

We headed back to the car at about 10:30. We probably passed 30 more people on the trail, many of whom had overnight packs and no visible permits. Once back at the parking lot we ran into two rangers who were headed up the trail to install a new toilet. Our permit had fallen off but they had a list with our name on it and we just showed them some I.D. and we were good to go. They were very friendly we took their picture with the toilet backpacks for them and wondered how many people they were going to cite for not having passes. Off to Gustav’s we went sore bodies but refreshed minds.

A successful trip!

 

 

Gear Notes:

rack to 3" single 60m. Down jackets

[Grades and Differences Erie vs Frenchmans]

I feel as though Erie might be rated a little harder. I was out climbing that same 10 a few weeks ago and its the top move thats the hardest (at least for me) once you figure out the move up top it gets easy and next thing you know your at the anchors.

The main issue is the different types of rock I believe. Gritstone at exit 38 has some short 10s on it that are just a few bolts, easy to TR if you want or need to retrieve gear. People on here gave some awesome advice for me pushing into the 10s has been losing the few extra pounds and just climbing all the time. Good luck and hope that things continue to go well!

[Partner / Mentor]

Ok so im 21 male and looking for someone to kinda mentor me I guess, im in good shape and go to college (not some fat guy who is going to be a danger). Im getting into alpine climbing and mountaineering and think it would be cool to have someone experienced help me out a little more and maybe make some friends who do it cause I have none. I have part of a Trad rack...stopper set, 60m single rope, part of hex set, cams from BD camalots from .3-2, 10 quick draws... Looking for someone who knows what they are doing and wouldnt mind sharing their knowledge. Im a fast learner. I live in the index area i can always drive buy beer and dinner have a ton of free salmon to give out if you like that lol. sounds like a personal add or something but i guess im just trying to see what works. I can climb up to 5.8-.9 used to be able to do 5.10s pretty consistently but took a few years off sport climbing. The 8-9th im taking a lead climbing class in Leavenworth so maybe after or before that I can meet up with someone and go climbing...ok enough thanks for looking and any help...

 

 

"Sorry I cant hang out tonight im hitting the internet and going on a friend hunt!"