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rocketparrotlet

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Posts posted by rocketparrotlet

    Classic Index moderates on the UTW?

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    There are plenty of moderates at Index, you just have to be creative to link them up. Here's another option for you: Take Lizard/Aries (tons of variations) to the top of the LTW, then scramble up from there to the Winkie Dinkie Cliff and do Gorilla My Dreams (you can also throw in Timberjack while you're up there for extra milage) and then scramble up from the top of GMD to the Mid Wall and do Plum Pudding (there are a couple other good moderates up there as well). The hardest pitch in that linkup is GMD which is rated 10a. (BTW - GMD is bolted like a sport climb, but I highly recommend bringing a few pieces to protect getting to that first clip.) You can also do the same linkup starting with Roger's Corner and Breakfast of Champions, but it's a bit harder that way. If you return to the base of the LTW by hiking out the Mid Wall trail, you can also hit #9 and Starfish, which are both entertaining moderates located near the Blues Cliff. (Check out RCNW for details on those two, as they are relatively new). You can also descend from the Mid Wall by rapping, and if you choose that option, I'd recommend scrambling down to the anchors for Dr. Sniff (follow the trail down from Winkie Dinkie toward the top of Breakfast then go skier's left to the Dr. Sniff anchors). That way you can top rope it on your way down. Never a lineup on that one. After toproping it, you'll see why. Can't wait for Index season!

     

    What you have described has been on my mind for a long time! My plan was to head up some route on GNS, do Timberjack, Plum Pudding, then Waiting for the Sun...sounds awesome however you slice it. Plenty up there that I've never had a chance to do. I'll probably throw a rope over Thin Fingers on the way down.

     

    Another plan of mine is to do Princely Ambitions pitch 1 and 2, then Lamar's Trust. Does that top out the Lower Wall?

    Classic Index moderates on the UTW?

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    I was browsing a thread on Supertopo and I saw this:

     

    "What's really weird about Index is that although the Lower Wall and the Davis-Holland area of the Upper Wall are now almost always so crowded that virtually every route has a line-up, most of the Upper Wall areas, and often many of the little sub-crags, are still empty.

     

    Example: Darryl climbed a three-pitch gem on the Upper Wall five or six years ago. Beautiful climbing, with one of the longest pitches at Index, good pro, a summit top-out, and... Drum Roll... NOT HARD!!!!

     

    [explanation] For those of you not familiar with Index, its biggest drawback (aside from being wet in winter) is the almost complete lack of moderate routes. [end explanation]

     

    So, for there to be a new 3-pitch 10a trad gem about 5 minutes from the popular Davis-Holland area, should have drawn hordes. HORDES.

     

    Not at Index.

     

    Mari & I got on it last summer, five years after the first ascent -- five years -- and as far as I can tell we were maybe the fourth or fifth party to climb it. We recommended it to a friend, and he came back saying "Best moderate route at Index." -

     

     

    What is this route mentioned? I want to climb it. Are there any other similar hidden gems that are 5.10- or so? On a similar note, how is Dana's Arch after the sport bolted section?

     

    -Mark

    Bad experience at Feathered Friends

    in Local Gear Shops

    Posted

    Eddie: thank you for the response. I agree with you here...what must not have been made clear, even though I stated it quite a few times at the store, is that the route in question has NEVER been done clean or freed. It is a nail-up route. There are at least 4 pitons in it right now; I guarantee that.

     

    If I saw someone hammering on City Park, I'd be angry too. But that's not the deal here. What I got wasn't advice. It was, frankly, a misinformed rant based on incorrect information- specifically that the route in question could be done any other way. I get that you and many others care about Index- so do I. I did my Eagle Scout project there because I wanted to contribute in a helpful way to our new climbing park. All I know is that the employees in Second Ascent and Marmot Mountain Works have always been very supportive and helpful and sincerely listened to what I have to say before passing judgment.

     

    -Mark

    Bad experience at Feathered Friends

    in Local Gear Shops

    Posted

    It's in my plan to aid Iron Horse, Narrow Arrow Overhang, Stern Farmer, and some other clean aid routes before even attempting a hammer route. I just wanted to know the difference between Bugaboos, Lost Arrows, and knifeblades (still don't really get it that well...didn't get the best advice) and also I didn't/don't plan on leaving any pitons on Snow White if I do end up climbing it. I just wanted information. Also, Index is a fine place to practice hammer aid climbing...on established hammer aid routes. Not routes that can go free or clean aid, but things where hammer aid is required. I need to practice if I'm going to be climbing any walls this summer.

    Bad experience at Feathered Friends

    in Local Gear Shops

    Posted

    I went in to Feathered Friends today to ask about pitons and maybe buy one or two for aid climbing, mentioning that I'm a beginner at aid climbing and trying to get the appropriate gear. There are some routes at Index that can't be done without them that I would like to climb (for example, Snow White, an A3 route near Princely Ambitions with some mandatory piton moves.)

     

    So I asked about the difference between pitons and the sales assistant behind the counter went off on a tirade about how it's not okay to use pitons at Index and about how if I can't climb a route with hammerless aid, then it shouldn't be climbed at all. Overall, it was a very bad experience, the sales assistant was very unhelpful, and I would not want to go there again. I'll take my business elsewhere in the future.

     

    -Mark

    climbing gyms

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Vertical World in Everett makes you lead a 5.9 to be certified. You don't have to do any kind of check before it. There are overhanging as well as vertical routes to lead there, actually. It's a pretty relaxed environment as far as climbing gyms go.

     

    I went in to get the lead check a couple weeks ago, and they told me I had to lead a 5.9, and I freaked...I hadn't been rock climbing since September, so I had the guy take me around the gym and show me all the 5.9 routes...I settled on the roof route because it had the biggest jugs. My forearms felt like they got shot when I was done, but it was great.

    Joint stress solutions?

    in Fitness and Nutrition Forum

    Posted

    aren't you young? you should not be having joint problems yet.

     

    I think you may need to give more info for a diagnosis. How many gym visits and rests between visits? How long is the gym time? How much climbing experience do you have already? (looking for tendons to be strengthened which takes years)

     

    Does the shoulder pain occur with a specific move or all moves?

    Same question for elbow.

    What part of elbow hurts? Inside/outside/front/back/above or below elbow joint

    Do you think you are exercising the front (chest) or back more? (looking for muscle imbalances for shdr pain)

     

    Unfortunately the shdr is a very hard joint to figure out. It will probably come down to easing off whatever hurts, trying to do things that doesn't hurt, and work at creating muscle balance around the "injured' joint.

     

    It might be that your muscles have gotten stronger while the tendons haven't caught up. (typical for starter climbers) If this is the case, just ease off and do non painful stuff. Maybe take up snowshoeing or skiing.

     

    Supplements are meant to supplement a good diet. Junk food and supplements is no better than just junk food.

     

    Maybe you should work at training in the weight room for overall muscularity. (better for attracting chicks) Do whatever does not hurt. Be very careful with injuring/overuse of the elbow. It is a bitch to recover from.

     

    I usually go to the gym every 2 days for about 2 hours each. Tendon issues are likely; I have only been climbing about 2 years and I built up muscle mass very rapidly during certain parts of that. Shoulder pain is just aching for maybe 15-20 minutes after I am done or a little bit of strain when I am doing dynamic moves. Elbow is barely there, just a little bit of aching after 2 hours or so. I do work out in the weight room as well. My back is stronger than my front; my chest is significantly weaker than my upper back. (I'm working on it.) I've been trying to build shoulder muscle recently, this may have something to do with it or not. I don't know.

    Joint stress solutions?

    in Fitness and Nutrition Forum

    Posted

    I recently started going to the climbing gym regularly instead of just an occasional trip. This has been causing joint pain, mainly in the shoulders but in the elbows a little bit as well. I have always had trouble with chronic stress injuries running as well, not sure if this is related or not.

     

    What are some likely causes of this and best ways to fix it? I started taking glucosamine supplements yesterday, any other non-homeopathic supplements to take, or even better, something like strengthening excercises?

     

    -Mark

    Rock or alpine

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    Wish I had seen this before. I'm in Everett anyway, north of you guys (without a car), and I haven't been to Little Si before. How was it?

     

    If you want to do some climbing sometime, just send me a PM and we can work something out. I know Index pretty well, at least the easier climbs.

     

    -Mark

    Frozen toes

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Thanks for all the advice guys, I really appreciate it. I'll be sure to take this into consideration.

     

    When I bought the boots, I planned to use them for scrambling, I wasn't into climbing yet. They work great for that! But I'm now set up to buy a pair of plastics next time I'm in Leavenworth, so that should be a big help. I'll also get to use my old Salewa crampons that are more designed for ice climbing and see if they are any better than G-12s.

    REI Sucks

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    (someone returned - I shit you not - some Chouinard clothing!)

     

    that's funny - they likely could have sold it on eBay for more money than they received for a return

     

    I have some Chouinard hooks and carabiners...are they worth money for being old?

    Squamish partner situation

    in British Columbia/Canada

    Posted

    I had the same experience this summer. I found some people to climb with in the Smoke Bluffs alone, but I spent a lot more time waiting than climbing. I'm sure that if you post for a partner somewhere you'll find one though.

     

    You can camp at the Chief campsite, there'll be a sign pointing towards it. $5 a night or if you're really cheap you can camp in the boulders, but it's not encouraged.

     

    -Mark

    REI Sucks

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Things I've tried to buy from REI with no avail:

     

    -ice screws

    -aiders

    -hooks

    -1/2" tubular webbing

    -pitons

    -copperheads

     

    Actually, they don't sell anything for aid climbing and not enough for ice climbing. And I can't get down to a real store in Seattle from Everett because I don't have a car (yeah, yeah, buses...did that once. Not again.)

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