aikidjoe

I'm looking for a climbing partner in the Seattle area interested in climbing this Sunday (10/20) and potentially beyond. Most of my experience has been on glaciers/icy slopes (Mt. Rainier via DC, Emmons, Gib Ledges, Fuhrer Finger and Thumb; Baker via Coleman-Deming, up the steeper section of the Roman wall, Park Glacier Headwall), but I'm trying to broaden my horizons into vertical rock, ice, and mixed, so I'm hoping to increase my experience in these arenas. I can follow up to 5.9 right now, and would feel ok about leading up to 5.6 trad. I have access to a trad rack. I'm hoping for someone with similar experience, or more who is willing to teach! Have car, will drive. I'd be happy with a long alpine day (Shuksan? Something in Snoqualmie Pass?), or just rock climbing. I'd also be interested in heading to one of the local mixed climbing crags to practice mixed climbing, which I have very little practice in.

I have the first week of September off and am thinking of hiking the Bailey Range Traverse in that time. I've climbed on glaciers quite a bit in the Cascades and elsewhere, but have never been to Mt Olympus yet (for shame!). I'd like to make a full loop by crossing the Humes and Hoh glacier, then down the Blue glacier, but I'm wondering if those with more extensive knowledge of the mountain can tell me if this is a viable option at this time of year? Or is it usually too broken up by now? Thanks for your input!

A friend of mine and I climbed Mt Stuart W Ridge this last weekend. It was our first time on the mountain and we had a lot of fun figuring out the route. Inevitably we got off the standard route once or twice. We were aiming for the standard 5.4 dihedral near the end of the route, and I thought we found it, but if so, we both found it to be the damn hardest 5.4 we had ever done (We are both 5.10 sport climbers for reference). Suffice it to say, I am curious if we were on the right one. So... Here's a photo of what we climbed up. Is that the standard 5.4 dihedral? If not, we're curious if anyone knows what it's rated? For reference, from the ledge I was belaying from, there was an old pin hammered in, hip height or so above the ledge.

Blake - just to be clear, you're referring to Sherpa glacier, not Sherpa pass?

A friend and I are thinking of climbing Stuart via N ridge this weekend. We are thinking of approaching from the N side, and I am looking for beta on descent route to get back to the N side (trying to avoid descend Cascade Coulouir and slogging back around). SummitPost suggests either Sherpa Glacier or Northwest Buttress; I'm guessing Sherpa Glacier is perhaps not in good shape at this point (if anyone knows otherwise please let me know!). All I can find about NW buttress is it's class 3/4 with some rappelling. Can someone point me to more info? Or does anyone have other suggestions?

Erik - Thanks for info. I've been up there a couple times, but it's been a few years - was any of the road gravel/dirt? Thinking I might try biking, but my buddy and I don't have mountain bikes... just road bikes. JonW2 - I will let you know.

Hi, Thinking of heading to Baker to climb Coleman Headwall this weekend. I know that Glacier Creek road is closed about 7 miles from the trailhead. I am wondering if anyone has been up there recently and knows if the road is skiable? Also, more generally, how are conditions on the north side of Baker? Thanks!

Hi all, I'm an intermediate skiier (for reference - can ski black diamond, and dbd but it's not pretty) who is just getting into back country skiing with a friend who is an advanced skier, but also just getting into the back country. I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for good places to start touring? Looking for areas. My hope is to one day add ski mountaineering to the repertoire. Thanks!

Does anyone know the White Chuck River Road is open? A friend and I would like to attempt Glacier Peak via Frostbite Ridge and I am having trouble finding updated information about the access road.