pioneerian

Any word on getting to the mazama glacier via bird creek meadows? Hoping to hit it earlier since there was a lack of snow this year.

Continuous snow just past the creek crossing around 5500' It was nice and solid until 7000 or so and then you run into the new stuff.

Trip: Middle Sister - North Slope via Pole Creek Date: 6/11/2012 Trip Report: Time to break away from the pack and climb off to the mountains on a solo mission. Not to summit (although of course that is the intended destination), but really to feel the solitude of silencing glaciers, the drama of the rough surrounding peaks, and mostly to find that breathtaking moment which is seemingly the perfect blend of pure contentment, wonder, and awe. The Three Sisters Wilderness has filled this need many times before and my most recent trip was no different. With limited time on my hands, I loaded up my gear and drove the rickety F150 through Sisters, stopping to supply myself with passes and a post climb Fosters – I don’t know why but it’s the only time I can drink that stuff, just love the 24 oz can! Made it up to the Pole Creek Trailhead around 1ish and met some OSU students who were also plagued with limited time and were tortured by the fact they couldn’t tag along. I know that feeling all too well. It hits every time I see others pack for a long backpacking tour or trip up the mountains. I often wonder how far we are from just staying in the wild. The approach into Middle Sis was the usual for this time of year. Clear of snow and trees to the Green Lakes trail intersection at the creek crossing. Poking around here and there, I settled down for the night just below the Hayden at 7100’. Treating myself to dinner and a movie – salmon, cheese, and hot sauce filled tortillas with some wasabi almonds on the side while watching the first stars appear through the fading sky was just what I had hoped for. It was an unusually warm night only getting down to around 40, so I decided to get a jump on things and took off around 4:30 am. Looking up, I knew that the day wasn’t going to be one for the photo books. The clouds rolled in over the night and covered everything to the west from about 8500’ and up. I made it to the saddle around 6:15 am through a day or two old 8 inches. From here, it was a low visibility climb with winds sustained around 30 mph and nice and wet from the clouds. Conditions weren’t great so the climb up was a little more sketchy than normal. The new snow was deep enough that my steps were not getting to the base layer and the new snow hadn’t quite bonded and wanted to slough off. Slow and steady was the name of the game both up and down. I made it to the summit around 7 for a 30’ view. That didn’t offer much temptation to hang around for very long, so I was quick to head back to the saddle. The decent was a little trickier as my downward steps made the new snow want to displace. Taking my time burying my axe to the head on every other step added on to the decent. About half way back to the saddle the long awaited moment came and it was just what I was hoping for. A 30 second break in the clouds was all that I needed to be memorized once again by the view of North Sister. Her rocky ridges and staggering slopes demanded my attention but too soon faded away, hidden by the all too familiar blanket of clouds. I still managed to get back to camp around 9. After a quick jalapeno and cheese bagel and a quick repack, I headed out. Pole creek by 11:00 which meant for an emotional reunion with my awaiting Foster’s. All in all, a fantastic climb that will remain one of my favorite places in the Cascades. Based on the conditions, I wouldn’t have turned down a rope, pickets, and a few fellow climbers. Gear Notes: Helmet, Axe, Crampons, GPS*

Anyone been up the Leuthold lately? Thinking of going 3rd week in June but I heard the route falls apart around then?

TR for the Old Chute http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1068791 Pearly Gates did have some pretty good ice last week. I would have used a screw if I had one. Went through the chute instead.

Trip: Mt Hood - Old Chute Date: 5/16/2012 Trip Report: Tis the Season for the long list of Mt Hood south side TRs. This report isn't so much a report on the climb itself but instead on a good lesson learned. The preparation started a week or so before, watching the high temps, special avi reports, and seeing the numerous posts from people saying they'll be staying home. All the data was pointing towards not the best time for a summit attempt. I also tend to lean a little more towards the conservative side of mountaineering as well. When it came time for the "go" or "no go" call the day before, I couldn't resist. I mean a day on the mountain not reaching or even attempting the summit is still a day on the mountain. When you think of it, it usually isn't much of a decision. My two partners and I headed out and camped above the Palmer. We wanted a little extra time to enjoy the mild weather and also to check out the Leuthold Route for the next climb. 3 AM came and the snow was still slop at 9000'. We decided to hit the "snooze" and go for some crevasse rescue practice instead. Then 7 AM came and when we strolled out of the tent, the conditions were perfect. I don't know how but everything set up solid as could be and the race was on. The sun was already over steel cliff, lighting up the crater lead to a feeling of disappointment that we most likely missed our opportunity. Conventional wisdom says, "it's too late in the day, it's too warm, other people are turning back, listen to the special avi reports." Maybe not the best day? I took a second to clear the conventional wisdom cloud and evaluated what I was seeing. No ice falling, solid snow, my partners and I cruising from the extra sleep, no rope teams clogging the route, and a solid wind keeping the snow melt at a minimum... It's perfect! We decided to make a run for it. From the hogsback to the summit via the Old Chute and back to the hogsback took 50 minutes. Down before any major ice fall (>6"). It was good lesson that listening to and watching the conditions and being aware of the environment is one of, if not most important tool you have while climbing. We finished up the day checking out the crevasses and recent avalanche slides on the Reid (there were 9) and interrupted a photo-shoot at the Silcox. I've never been much of a peak bagger, always going with the philosophy that the mountain will always be there. But wow, does the beer taste that much better after standing on top of a cascade mountain. Gear Notes: Axe, Crampons, Helmet, Rope, Picketts, and the kitchen sink.

Great stuff folks, thanks!

Sorry, CAMP large mobile. I've heard the mini's bend and wanted to steer away if that was the case. Thanks though. How's the friction with the ATC or biners?

Quick question on an issue I've been having when setting up my Z-pulley system. My prussik knot between my anchors and load is getting pulled through my primary pulley and not obviously stopping at the pulley as it should. Does anyone have a fix for this other than buying a different pulley? Would appreciate any incite on this as it is driving me crazy.

The road is open to the Marble Mt Trailhead for any type of vehicle. Went up Monday and had about 100 yards max visibility the whole time. Didn't need crampons and it would have sucked without snowshoes. Glisading wasn't great either but nonetheless still a great time on Helens.

There is a current special conditions report for avalanches at: http://www.nwac.us/forecast/avalanche/current/zone/8/ I haven't made it up there this year, going Sunday. St. Helens is a straight forward climb however if you don't have much experience judging snow pack conditions to determine avi danger you may want to consider waiting. I assume you will take the standard S-side route which doesn't have a lot of critical avalanche track areas but they still do happen. Alpine start because of all the recent snow I would say is a must (again not seeing it in person) and stay away from the rim! Let me know how it goes if you decide to go.

I am looking at doing hood the first week in June (most likely Wed or Thursday if the conditions are good). Don't have much for mountaineering experience but I've at least done South Sister and Helens. So if anyone is interested in showing a newbie the ropes, I'll pack the wild turk to the top!