jspitzer

I've got a Black Diamond Speed 40L for sale. This is a size Medium Torso Color Red Condition: Used, but in still really good condition with plenty of climbing life in this pack. Asking $50

Trip: Canyonlands National Park: Moses - Primrose Dihedrals Date: 9/28/2013 Trip Report: Rachel and I got lucky and climbed Primrose Dihedrals on the Moses before the Government shutdown. Hopefully the National Parks will open again soon as this tower is not to be missed. Road Condition: The road up Taylor Canyon is in good condition and I was able to drive my Subaru up the whole way to the trailhead. Route: Great sustained steep desert climbing on this tower. There is lots of beta out there online. All the bolts on the "Ear" pitch are in place and good condition. P1: Climb an inverted V slot (5.11+) to a 2 bolt belay at about the level of the notch to the east. or climb down a few feet (but not more) and then up onto an exposed ledge which leads around the corner to the west. Follow this ledge to the belay bolts (5.8). P2: Work up to the left edge of a roof, and fire up a beautiful finger crack to a roof . Continue up via liebacks and steep jamming P3: This pitch is very short and actually starts about 10' below the previous belay. Downclimb from the belay). From here, stem and hand traverse left to a thin crack, and climb this (5.10-) for only about 30' to a huge sloping ledge with 3 bolts. This ledge is only a little bit higher than the previous belay. From here the upper section of the route is visible and awe inspiring. P4: Follow a straight in crack to a pod, then up a right facing dihedral (5.10 hands and then fist) to a 2 bolt belay. This pitch looks tough from below, but a convenient foothold off to the right at one roof makes it easier than one might think. Awesome Pitch! P5: Continue up a weird 5.9 crack to the base of the ear (large cam may be useful), optional hanging belay here. Lieback or offwidth the ear (5.11+), using 6 bolts to the right of the corner. After the last bolt you used to have to free climb 15-20' to the top of the ear. The crack here is over 6", but halfway up this section look for a smaller crack inside that offers some protection. P6: Chimney behind a large flake and head straight up (5.8) to a 2 bolt belay. Alternatively, you can follow 1 or 2 bolts above the belay (5.10 face). P7: This is the same as the last pitch on the Dunn Route. Face climb past 2 bolts to the top. Gear Notes: 2 60m ropes for rappelling Pale Fire Cams: 1 blue TCU 1 yellow TCU 1 black FCU Black Diamond cams 2- 0.4 3- 0.5 3- 0.75 3- #1 2-#2 3-#3 set of nuts (useful on pitch 5) 14 draws/slings Approach Notes: Drive up Taylor Canyon Road

Red #1 Cams still for sale. Rest of them sold already!

Hey CC I've got a couple more cams i'm trying to sell. These cams are in good safe climbing condition. All of them have been re-sewn by the manufacture. All cams at $20 a piece! 2- BD Red #1 cams 1- Blue Met 1- Yellow Met 1- Orange met 1- Red Met Let me know if you are interested at jonathon(dot)spitzer@gmail(dot)com

Trip: Sahale Peak - Boston Basin - Quien Sabe Glacier Date: 5/19/2012 Trip Report: Did a 6 day mountaineering course for Alpine Ascents in Boston Basin May 13-18th with Lee Lazarra. Here are some of the observations from our trip. Cascade River Road blocked a few hundred feet before the Eldorado parking lot. Boston Basin Trail: The trail Is slowly melting out with mixed snow and dirt for the first 1/2 mile. The steep tree tunnel section can be avoided by climbing a snow slope on the climbers right. Midas Creek is starting to melt out below 4200ft and could be come difficult to cross in the short future. Can be easily avoided by just going further up hill. We traversed into Morning Star Creek and ascended moderate angle snow slopes to Boston Basin. We camped on the lateral moraine just south of the Boston Basin low summer camp. Sahale: On 5/16 we had excellent cramponing conditions up the Quien Sabe Glacier to Sahale. The summit ridge is heavily corniced on the East side. Only a couple small crevasses are opening up on the Quien Sabe. Several large moats and glide cracks are forming on the slabs below the Quien Sabe glacier. By early afternoon snow became deep and punchy. Avalanche Activity: Witnessed several large D2-D3 avalanches off north side of Johannesburg. Boston Peak and Sahale Peak had many loose wet avalanches on steep terrain but did not entrain much snow. On the lower East ridge of Forbidden Peak the hanging Slab bowl avalanched producing a R4 D3 coming within 500ft of Boston Basin high camp. Flotation: Surprisingly we did not need to use our snowshoes at all. Happy climbing, Jonathon Spitzer IFMGA Guide snowrockandiceadventures

Climbing Shuskan via the Sulphide route can have many hidden avalanche obstacles along the way. Here are some of the few that come to mind. 1) At the Col when you cross from Shannon Ridge into the Sulphide zone you cross several steep East facing slopes with steep cliffs above you. Also that zone is known for having large cornices this time of year. 2) Passed the col you still have several zone of steep rocks and cornices above you until you are on the Sulphide GL 3) Summit Pyramid: I have seen several large wet loose avalanches come off the South side of the summit pyramid. The South East ridge stays clear of avalanche danger. Hope this is helpful and be careful out there Jonathon

Awesome film and editing work! NWO looks like an amazing line. Here is a getto film from climbing in the AK range in 2010 youtube

Nepal Extreme's Sold Muir's SOLD Five Ten Guides Sold Eider Pants SOLD Skins SOLD OR Jacket Still for Sale!

Arcteryx Pants and Jacket SOLD!

OK, i'm cleaning up the garage and selling some of my girlfriends stuff. AND Yes she knows i'm selling it!!! Arcteryx Soft Shell Jacket Size Medium: $40 Condition: Used but in good condition Arcteryx: Climbing Pants: Size Medium: $20 Good condition but a small tear in butt (less than 1/4"). Some small sewing could makes these pants excellent again. Perfect pant for Index of WA pass climbing The North Face Soft Shell Jacket: Size Medium : $40 Condition NEW. model Nimble Jacket

BD Snow Saw SOLD!

Ok CC'ers. I am cleaning up the garage and i'm looking to sell some stuff. I live in Seattle and willing to meet or mail items. La Sportiva Nepal Extreme Evo's: Size 45 $65 Used but in good condition, plenty of mileage left on them, never been resoled Outdoor Research Furio Jacket gore-tex jacket: Size Medium $75 Good Condition, used probably 20 days Eider Gore-tex pants: Size Large $ 35 Ok condition La Sportiva Muir rock shoes Size 43.5 $35 Resoled 1 time, great shoe, plenty of life in them BD snow saw: $15 Black Diamond Ascension Skins for BD 186 Drift: $40 Excellent condition Five Ten Guide Tennie: Size US 11. $20

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Are you still looking for a travel pack?

I found a Lounge Chair base of Godzilla/City Park yesterday (4/10). Let me know if it's yours and we can meet up. I've attached a picture of it. Levi is not include with the chair!

Trip: Thailand - ThaiTanium Wall and Ao Nang Tower Date: 1/11/2012 Trip Report: On December 13th, Rachel and I escaped the drizzle and rain of Seattle, WA in search of tropical weather and sport climbing. After more then 24 hours of travel we arrived to the sport climbing mecca Tonsai and Railay Beach. The stories and pictures don’t lie about this tropical paradise being lined up with incredibly steep limestone cliffs directly off the beach and crags with short approaches. Endless fruit smoothies, Thai food and beer are easy to access while still being tied into the rope. There is so many routes to choose and to climb in Southern Thailand. Here is a trip report from two different multi-pitch routes we climbed on separate islands. No question these were both highlights from our trip. I highly recommend both routes! For me details and pictures you can check out http://www.snowrockandiceadventures.com/index.php?page=post&id=28 ThaiTanium Wall on Ko Yawabun ThaiTanium Wall offers an amazing 4 pitch route “To The Members” rated 6c, 6c, 6c+, 6b (5.11b, 11b, 11c, 11a). Rachel, Dylan, Rich and myself jumped at the opportunity to climb this classic route and hired “Cleft” our boatman to take us there. After the 45min boat ride to this hidden island, Cleft pulled up below the over hanging old fixed ropes, which we jumared (30ft) out of the boat to gain the start of the route. I lead the first pitch, which was an amazing 6c for just over 30meters. The scenery was mind-blowing and the climbing was unreal. Rachel lead the second 6c pitch which was incredibly steep on this heavily featured overhanging wall. I lead the third pitch which had a short crux right off the belay followed by some small technical holds to some step tufa climbing. Rachel took the last pitch to the top of the wall on incredibly sharp limestone rock. We rappelled down the route and back into the boat (for most of us). Rachel decided to jump from the top of the fixed ropes into the water. On the way back we encountered a typical afternoon thunderstorm and torrential down pour. Orange Chandeliers on Ao Nang Tower We hired our trust worthy boatman Cleft for a short 10min boat ride from Tonsai to Ao Nang tower. I teamed up with Rich from Australia while Dylan climbed with Mariyene from Quebee. The three pitch route “Orange Chandeliers” is rated 6b, 6b+, 6c (5.10d, 11a, 11b). The route comes into the sun after 1pm so we had to move quickly, so that we did fry in the heat. Cleft was able to get us close to the tower, then we scrambled up a 4th class ramp section with fixed lines that we traversed to access the first pitch. The first pitch was steep tufa climbing with great rests for 30meters. The next pitch was short and slightly overhanging. The long third pitch had several crux sections including delicate moves on shape rock near the top. Two rappels landed us back in the boat and before 1pm we were in Tonsai drinking beers! Both routes require two 60m ropes to rappel, 15 quickdraws, a belay device, and a swimsuit to jump into the ocean afterwards. Photo from Dylan Taylor (www.tayloralpine.com) Approach Notes: beach-boat-climb-rappell-boat-beach-bar

Yeah, Moster Tower is on my list. Did you do the North Ridge or the Kor? Looks loose from Washer Woman Cheers

Boots are still for sale!

Hey anybody want to go crag tomorrow? Looks like it will be sunny

Trip: Canyonlands National Park - Moses, Standing Rock, Washer Woman Date: 11/1/2011 Trip Report: I got back earlier this week from climbing towers in Canyonlands National Park. There's a lot of different information out there about these towers. Thought I would summarize my trip, which I would highly recommend! Photos and more info can be found at snowrockandiceadventures.com Moses: Primrose Dihedrals IV 5.11 The Mineral Bottom road is full fixed and you can drive any type of vehicle down that road. Were the road splits and goes up Taylor Canyon (5miles) you need a 4 wheel drive, high clearance vehicle to reach the trailhead. From the trailhead follow trail to base of route. Pitch 1: 5.11+ or 5.8 scary traverse. 100ft Pick your poison. Fixed Anchor Pitch 2: 5.10+, climb splitter crack through several small roofs, for the crux keep an extra .75 cam which is near the top of that pitch. 130ft Gear Anchor 2-3"cams Pitch 3: 5.10, start by down climbing 5.8 then traverse 10ft and climb face and crack to next ledge. 40ft Fixed Anchor Pitch 4: 5.10+, amazing hands to wide hands to fist! awesome pitch. 120ft. Fixed Anchor Pitch 5: 5.11, classic "Ear" lie-back pitch. We bailed due to rain. Retreat was easy with fixed anchors Washer Woman: In Search of Suds III 5.10+ Approach by driving down Shafer Trail Road to access White Rim Road. Camped at Airport Campground. 1h30mins from ranger station. Highly recommend 4 wheel drive vehicle. From campground drive another 20mins to Buck Canyon or until you see Washer Woman. There is a couple cairns marking where to park and follow the path to the base of the climb 1hr hike. Pitch 1: 5.10, hands and fists in a corner system. 120ft. Fixed Anchors Pitch 2: 5.9+, climb through the "eye" and up chimney to wide hands to ledge. awkward moving pulling onto belay ledge. 100ft. Fixed Anchors Pitch 3: 5.10+, climb crack system to crest of tower. 60ft. gear anchor 1-2" Pitch 4: 5.9, traverse 4th class ledge system to summit block. Fixed anchor below summit block Pitch 5: 5.10+, bolted summit block. Fixed anchor on summit Descent: This is the more exciting part. From Pitch 4, make a double rope rappel over the arch of Washer Woman. Very exposed and free hanging getting into the rappel. Follow rest of the anchors down. Standing Rock (aka Totem Pole): Kor Route 5.11 We spend another night at the Airport Campground, then got up early in the morning and drove additional hour and half to Monument Basin. There is a fixed rope that we rappelled to access Monument Basin. The fixed rope is located 300yards away from the road in a gully with two bolts. Park in wash marked with a cairn when the road gets close to the rim and Standing Rock is directly to the south. Walk 300 yards west along the rim and look for the second gully marked with a large cairn for the fixed rope. Descend to Monument Basin and walk to base of standing rock. (good beta on mountainproject.com) Pitch 1: 5.10, climb up the crack and traverse below the roof. 120ft fixed anchor Pitch 2: 5.10+, traverse 20ft and climb up loose crack and flakes passed and old hanging anchor to ledge with 5 fixed pins. 130ft. Pitch 3: 5.11 or 5.10 C1. The 5.11 section felt pretty hard maybe there are some hold missing, anyways follow up and right to the summit Descent: Rappel to pitch 1, then rappel to ground, with two 60m ropes. More photo's on my blog snowrockandiceadventures.com Moses Tower Standing Rock Jonathon leading pitch 4 Primrose Dihedrals Gear Notes: Standard desert tower rack: Lots of cams, off-set nuts, two ropes, beers, and extra gas. Approach Notes: Get over night camping permit at Island-in-the-Sky Ranger station if camping in park. $150 fine for illegal camping.

The jacket is a Medium (i just double checked). I'm 6'1'' 170lbs and it fits me pretty good. Let m know if you interested Cheers

Skis and skins SOLD. Boots still available

Still trying to clean up the garage! I have a pair of 176cm Stigma skis with BD Ascension skins cut for them. Sorry no bindings, but they are drilled for a pair of dynafit TLT. The skis were only used on 1 trip in Ecuador. They are in really good condition with the bases being brand new and sharp edges. Asking $400 with skins. Boots: BD Prime size 27.5. They are in really good condition. Asking $250 Let's pray 4 snow! Let me know if you want more pictures.

Trying to clean up the garage! I have an OR Men's Medium Alibi soft shell Jacket $75. in really good condition. No holes or tears. It's a couple years old. BD Aspect harness New with tags on it $50 size Medium

I have a Metolius El Cap Haul Bag. I used it on 1 trip. It's in great condition! I'm asking $100 or best offer Let me know if you want some more photo's