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tomio

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Everything posted by tomio

  1. Has anyone tried these out yet? Can't find anywhere that carries them. I'm trying to get a feel for sizing.
  2. I love my Princeton Aurora. Just a simple headlamp.
  3. Trip: Mt. Adams - South Spur Date: 6/27/2009 Trip Report: After a long ride car ride from Seattle, we arrived at the trail head at about 10 pm and slept. We woke up at 2 AM and set out. It was a little chilly, but after 10 minutes of hiking, clothing was reduced to a shirt and Mountaineers-style bottoms (shorts and long underwear). As the sun cam out, there was starting to be a lot more traffic and we could readily feel how how the day was going to be... One guy commented on the snowboards we were carrying and suggested that we leave the boards at the false summit and board down from there; we didn't listen to him. There were nice, kicked out steps until we got closer to the false summit. We opted against an overnighter, so we trucked past lunch counter making good time. Closer to the false summit, we strapped on crampons because steps weren't as well kicked out and it got a lot steeper. This also made life easier as we didn't have to tailgate slower hikers. On both our sides, we saw many glissaders of which only 80% knew how to properly self-arrest. There were some pretty interesting ways people were doing it... One guy even yelled at this woman for doing it wrong. We got to the summit where we could see nice views of St. Helens, Rainier, and Hood. There were people EVERYWHERE. Snowboarding down to the false summit was not fun. The snow was suncupped and rocks were poking out everywhere. Snowboarding down from the false summit wasn't fun either... more mogles. We got some nice spots, but the novelty of snowboarding down a summit had already past. Gear Notes: Leave snowboards at home You can do without crampons, but they had their uses Proper self arrest skills if you plan on glissading Approach Notes: You can drive all the way up to the trail.
  4. Did someone get their climbing gear stolen somewhere between Tacoma and Seattle? Ice axe, ice screws, a ridiculous amount of quickdraws, nuts, cams, rap racks, carabiners... etc. If this strikes a lightbulb, let me know. for $100 and it's worth like 2000. I'm going to buy the lot and leave it for a month or two OR until someone can correctly identify it. If not, I will sell the gear out for cheap. Very sketch. Let me know.
  5. tomio

    Bent Gates

    I know that bent gates shouldn't be used to clip to bolts or pro, but does that apply to bent wires too? Is it alright to have the 2 bents clip into the bolts? I've seen what can happen when you climb above a biner and realize that it's easier for bents to get torqued across it's gate and become unclipped, but does that apply when if you are just setting an anchor for someone to top rope/follow up if they won't be climbing above it?
  6. So I have a grigri that has paint on it. My friend gave it to me. It doesn't have paint in any of the bolts, just on it's surface and where the rope runs through. She has shown it to the local gym adn they said it's fine for use. The only thing I'm worried about is the paint getting rubbed into the sheath of my rope. I've seen it used and it locks off just fine. I just wanted a second opinion. I was thinking about just sanding all the paint off or maybe use paint thinner, but I don't want to mess with its safety. Any thoughts? Thanks
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