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Quarryographer

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Posts posted by Quarryographer

    This makes no sense . . .

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Many folks girth hitch their Daisy to the harness, despite designers warnings. Bottom line is you should never fall onto your personal anchor. Even 2' could be horrible. This can be mitigated several ways. If multi-pitching, anchor into the rope via clove hitch. The rope is designed to absorb dynamic force. another option is the Purcell prusik for a personal anchor. This will also absorb dynamic force, albeit much less than a climbing rope... Hope that is helpful...

     

    Secret crag..?

    in Central/Eastern Washington

    Posted

    Looks like the small section of decent rock in the next Coulee north of Frenchmans. My Friend Aaron Stetzer developed that area about 5 or six years ago. He also did a bunch in Tieton and Banks, before he moved to South Dakota. I'm sure he'll be stoked to hear that somebody found his climbs and are havin fun on them!

     

    Sno park permit?

    in Access Issues

    Posted

    Howdy all. I was just wondering if anybody has the complete lowdown on the sno park permit rules around here. I've been googling around to see if any of the other myriad of permits will cover the places where they usually work, when not sno season. So far I've been lucky flying under the radar, but i'm wondering if I should just pony up for yet another permit. Seems a bit ridiculous...

    Thanks for any help.

    Moving to the Bay Area...need advice

    in California

    Posted

    You'll e close to Turtle rock, for bouldering. Berkley has a nice bouldering area as well, with a couple routes. Pinnacles is your closest crag, be careful there, it has a bounty of old school scary runouts. Lovers leap, and Tahoe are a couple hours away in good traffic. Beware though, peak season in the Bay the locals mass exodus turning what would be a 2hr drive into more like 5. This time of year "off season" though you'll be ale to hit the Valley in about 4 to 5 hours, with little crowds. And finally to the Sierras. My personal favorite alpine area period. If only it wasn't in Cali. Try to plan midweek trips to avoid the traffic, and crowds. You'll enjoy climbing perfect granite at elevation and be in heaven. Good luck!

    FS- Hilleberg Keron GT 4person, 4 season tent $700

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    I think the price is good, and those tents are the stuff, but it's more of a champagne taste-beer budget problem. I'd personally love to have this tent, but prob couldn't afford one any time soon. I think it's easier to shell out 300 clams on an ultralight 3 or 4 year shelter vs 7 bennies for a 3 or 4 decade home away from home. just 2c...

     

    I was not prepared...

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    This late in the season that group was probably forced to go to Smith. While rude, this tactic is pretty common, and happens more frequently than anybody is prepared for. WA has a law limiting group size, but many seem to ignore it anyway. It sucks that this happened to you. My guess is "Spiderman" from your post. You could have potentially done the variation start, and beat at least some of them to the first station. Or pushed a little harder and maybe tried "Trezlar" or "Zebra Zion", both popular climbs also. That small bump in grade seems to weed out many of the total gumbies, meaning if you do have to wait, you might not have to wait as long. I personally am pretty sick of this ethic, having arrived early many times to find some group has completely taken over. My personal pet peeve is with single pitch stuff, when they show up at the crack of dawn and string ropes on everything at the wall without leading any of it, then sit back and have a picnic teaching how to put on harnesses etc. Acting like they own these routes if asked for a quick run of 2 people.

    In this situation it's always acceptable to ask to go first, but in my experience it's almost never granted.

    That park is big, with many options. Next time head up to the Marsupials...

    sport climbing and erosion

    in Spray

    Posted

    I wouldn't give the fractures in the face much thought, but the hordes of people clearly has made an impact in just about every climbing area I've seen. The rapid erosion seems to affect the drier climates more. Case in point Bbq the Pope. But it isn't selective to sport climbing only, Ltown bouldering has seen some terrible impact at some relatively new areas. Whaddyagonnado?

     

    Where to live

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Index would be great, provided you work from home. Also, Glacier falls into that category. But, if you're like the rest of us and need industry to support a job. Look into North Bend, Ellensburg, and Cle Elum as CC mentioned. Many people like to dis the 90 corridor, but for access and convenience nothing else compares.

    new rap station on South Face Jello tower

    in Spray

    Posted

    Geez, this thing is still going?

     

    Vert. Thanks for the anchors!

    Sorry you have to be the whipping boy for all those clinging to the good 'ol days. Especially when you took the time (away from climbing) to do a community service, or at least what you thought was. I've always thought the best climbing was below there anyway. Since you're already getting flack, head on over to Index and get rid of that funky anchor on Toxic. That'll open up a whole new can of worms. bwahahhaahhaha

     

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