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Posts posted by dirtysouth

  1. Trip: Bugaboos - Pigeon/Bugaboo/Crescent Spires -


    Date: 8/7/2012


    Trip Report:

    Conditions update on the Bugs.....We were up there from 8/2-8/7 and climbed several routes:

    Pigeon Spire West Ridge

    Bugaboo Spire Kain Route

    Rest day

    Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge

    Crescent Spire Ears Between

    All routes were snow/ice free and approaches were fast. The hike from Applebee Dome to Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col was taking about an hour, with most folks opting to go without crampons. A couple of cracks were rapidly opening up on that approach. Temps were warm that week were around 17C/63F.


    We actually ended up climbing the NE Ridge in t-shirts all day from 4:30am til 2:30pm back at camp. People had warned us of cold temps the week before, when everyone was climbing in their Das Parkas!

    A few pics to get the stoke going.....

    West Ridge of Pigeon


    NE Ridge of Bugaboo


    5.6 pitch on the Kain Route


    Following the first pitch on the NE Ridge


    Soaking it in!


    Throwing the ropes to rap down the Kain Route


    Rapping down from Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col



    Approach Notes:

    Crampons might be more helpful as things melt out quickly and the approach routes change. Ice axe was nice for the way down the col in slushy afternoon snow.

  2. Trip: Mount Washington - North Ridge


    Date: 6/13/2012


    Trip Report:

    Had a great trip on Washington's North Ridge yesterday. Left the car at 10:45....alpine start, baby! Approach on the PCT was straightforward, although it eventually turned snow-covered and we saw no trace of the North Ridge climbers trail marker, so after an hour, we just headed east and uphill. Tree wells were pretty gnar and we did lots of up and down and around on the mushy snow....took lots of time and energy - maybe in 3-4 weeks it'll be melted out all the way up to the ridge. Got on the crest of the ridge and on route around 1:45. Plenty of snow and some melted out trail to hike on. Ditched the skis and boots low on the ridge. Had to scramble around some snow-filled gullies and had some scrambling traverses that won't be necessary in a few weeks when it all melts out. After finding our way to the base of the summit pinnacle, we opted not to rope up, being that placing pro seemed sketchy and not beneficial. Fortunately all the moves up the ramps and chimneys were mostly free of snow and ice and proved easy. Cool exposure. Topped out at 4:30...a little later than I'd liked. 3 raps off the fixed slings/rings on our 50m rope went easy and we scrambled back down and out. A few ski turns before the tree wells got the better of us. Back at the car at 8:30pm. Cool mountain - would love to climb the same route in 2 months and shave off a few hours with lighter packs and no snow.



    Gear Notes:

    Helmets, ice axe or whippet, 50m rope and minimal rack, but didn't place any gear - maybe I could have placed a piece or 2 for mental pro

    Gear we brought and didn't really use or need - skis, skins, ski boots, crampons, nuts/cams/extra slings.....I climbed most of the north ridge and summit pinnacle in five ten guide tennies, but would have been much nicer in light mountaineering boots or waterproof trail runners.


    Approach Notes:

    Brought skis, but wasn't worth it......20 lbs that we didn't need

  3. Yeah - forecasted temps for this coming week are 10-15 degrees higher than when we went up....could soften it up really nice! I'd start way earlier than our 11am "alpine start" though. All that rain in the area made the snowpack as stable as it's ever gonna be. You should get up there before the next big snows come!

  4. Trip: Diamond Peak - Pioneer Gulch


    Date: 2/1/2011


    Trip Report:

    We were able to drive up to about 4400 feet on road 1249. After parking and grabbing our stuff, we hiked/skinned up through road 2160 up towards the mountain from there. A fast and hard snowpack made it easy to bootpack or snowshoe up. The snow softened up a little bit as the day progressed, but forecasted temps were in the 20's which kept everything stable and fast. Left the car at 11, topped out at 4, and we were back down by 6, spending 30 minutes up top. First time on Diamond for both of us - we were stoked!!!


    Finding the ridge


    Higher on the ridge


    Arriving at the false summit


    Sweet views from the summit ridge!


    Fast and icy ski down



    Gear Notes:

    Skis, skins, crampons.....snowshoes, board


    Approach Notes:

    Able to drive to about 4400 ft

  5. Trip: St Helens - Worm Flows


    Date: 1/25/2011


    Trip Report:

    Great weather....fast and icy conditions made for a quick climb and a shady descent. Crampons would have been nice for the top 800 feet.



    Gear Notes:

    Skis, skins, some were able to snowshoe all the way up. Crampons would have been nice.


    Approach Notes:

    Marble Mountain

  6. Trip: Adams - South Spur


    Date: 8/8/2010


    Trip Report:

    not too much beta to give here.....just a conditions update. it's possible to stay off snow until about 8500 ft, although firm early morning conditions are making the snow travel very fast and icy. after starting at 1:30, we reached the lunch counter at 5:30. after a few gear malfunctions and athletic/duct tape solutions, we topped out at 10:30. there's still plenty of snow up there, but the sun cups are more like small penitentes above pikers peak:)

    for the descent, i was glad to have skis (for the most part). i was able to barely ski the top 300 ft or so, before i thought better of it and walked down most of the final summit headwall. however, from pikers peak to lunch counter was delicious....smooth and creamy around 11:30. from there on down it was mostly perfect corn as well, although i had to avoid several patches of large sun cups. i was able to string together the snow patches until just below 7k for a 5000ft august ski run!





    Gear Notes:

    whippet and skis


    Approach Notes:

    cold springs

  7. Trip: Hood - West Crater Rim


    Date: 3/6/2010


    Trip Report:

    Got to avoid some of the crowds by kicking up the West Crater Rim on Saturday. A nice variation to the SS slog, with a fun 45 degree slope to get up on the rim (maybe a 50 or so degree bulge at the end). Perhaps took us an extra hour over the normal Hogsback-Old Chute route.


    Our route in red, climbers left of Crater Rock


    Approaching the mini-coulior we climbed


    Getting after it!


    Near the Rim, Crater Rock in the background


    Nice resting spot on the Rim - good views of the Upper Reid below


    Looking towards the "ledge" and the Hogsback/Old Chute


    Lots of climbers on the Hogsback


    Looking down at our tracks from the Old Chute


    Shameless summit shot



    Gear Notes:

    We brought a 30m rope and a couple pickets for the initial slope - not necessary for the more experienced


    Approach Notes:

    Any ideas on how to fall asleep while skinning up the Palmer?

  8. Trip: Hood - South Side


    Date: 2/25/2010


    Trip Report:

    Heard about a tiny weather window for Thursday afternoon, and decided to head up to Timberline.

    Left the parking lot in high winds and snow at 7am

    Decided we weren't having fun and wanted to ski down - 7:30, 8am, 8:30 and 9am.

    Broke through the clouds above the top of the Palmer at 9,000 ft - 10am

    Decided it was too warm for my rime-ice-coated 9-layer system - 11am

    Hogsback sandwiches - noon

    Summit via icy Pearly Gates - 2pm

    Descended the old chute

    Gorgeous snow on the descent from 11k-9k, then back to the Palmer crud



    Gear Notes:

    Pearly Gates area was pretty icy in one spot for 20-30 ft. Bring a tool if you wanna climb it. If not, traverse to the Old Chute.


    Approach Notes:

    Uuuuuughh, I hate the Palmer.

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