dirtysouth

Cool trip! Nice to see some pics of seldom-traveled terrain up there. Good timing to get the stoke high for the upcoming season up north too!

Sorry, no Pencil pic. Looks like a really cool line though!

Trip: Mt Hood - North Face Date: 4/2/2013 Trip Report: Thanks to the added stoke from some recent trip reports, we headed up the North Face right couloir. Started from Tilly Jane Cabin, dropped onto the Eliot just past the rock shelter around 7000ft. Afterwards, we descended the Sunshine Route, which besides the upper bergschrund, was really straightforward and quick. For a route that "faces north" (actually northeast) we were surprised to spend almost the whole day in the sun. Approaching the schrund First ice pitch in good condition Just above the first ice pitch Second ice pitch Cathedral Spire saddle Dropping over the bergschrund near Horseshoe Rock on the descent Plodding down Snow Dome Gear Notes: Brought rope/screws/pickets, but with the hero ice, opted to keep it all in the pack Approach Notes: Cooper Spur TH - Tilly Jane Cabin - rock shelter - left/se side of Eliot - right side of bergschrund

Nice! Thanks for posting these. Had a blast climbing up there with your sis last summer!

Niiiiiiice! Thanks for the update. Right side's lookin good!

Current info + awesome pics = Great TR. Nice work harrai!

Always looking for other areas around Bend to get on some ice......any suggestions?

Trip: Newberry Crater - Paulina Falls Ice Date: 12/21/2012 Trip Report: Nothing too special, but we've got a little ice here in Central Oregon! Significant water flow behind the falls, but perhaps a couple short lines would take screws. Conditions are way fatter than they ever were last year. Gear Notes: We set up TR's using natural anchors above the falls. Could be led at WI 4-5 with short screws. Approach Notes: Park at 10-mile Sno Park and hike up the road or sled trail 2.5ish miles up to Paulina Falls Overlook.

pics!

Hey Greg, Indeed the South ridge and SE ridge join up. There are cairns marking where to go after they join. Continue across the traverse you mentioned (sometimes you can go up 30 ft and hop into a moat that forms here to avoid exposure or needing crampons and axes). However, I just spoke to someone who did that traverse yesterday and there was no snow anywhere on the traverse at all. After this, wrap around up and to the right into the Bowling Alley. There is a short (4 ft) step surrounded by choss to enter the Bowling Alley and on top of that step, you should be able to look up and right and see old slings/tat that mark the spot to belay from or rap off of at the top of the gully. It's usually safest to start at the bottom left side of the Bowling Alley and stay left, until traversing up and right (towards the old slings) near the top. From there, it's fairly intuitive to reach the summit. Scramble up and go left towards the higher summit. Doing this will require a short ridge walk, then some 4th class moves onto the summit proper. Hopefully this helps and my explanation isn't too confusing

Here's a view of the lower Hayden....looked like it would be decent in the early afternoon after it softened up.

Nice work boys......way to represent OR!

TR has been edited.....NW ridge of South Sister, not the North Ridge

Yeah you're right......We climbed the NW ridge on South. I've done the same thing before....traverse down and right (southwest) from Middle to link up with the NW ridge. Has anybody climbed both the NW ridge and the N ridge on South Sister (during a 3 Sis Marathon) that has a preference? Seems like the North ridge would be more direct/quicker?