Dirtbag Packwork

What size pad do you want. I have a revolution commando, which has been used maybe six times sine I bought it two years ago. http://www.revolutionclimbing.com/Commando_p_12.html

Wow--I think I've actually gotten dumber while reading through this f-ing ridiculous thread. I tried to read through it to find out what the exact problem is, but to no avail. Is it that us PDX folks are uptight bitches??? Now I hate all the fucking hipsters in this town as much as the next self-respecting person, but in the four years I've been living and climbing here I have never, run into one of these "crag cops" (I'll exclude the ones that once gathered at the base of a route telling me I was going to die without a rope) You talk about man to man, with cold beers, but you tossed the opening volley from your desk??? I'll give you a shout the next time I'm in L-town and we can have a beer, talk about the routes your friend put up. I'll even help you poke up of Portland, but the bitching has got to stop. Yes, there is some sorry ass BS, that happens in this town. Especially in regards to a certain guidebook (which by the way makes this place look like the backwoods of climbing) I was even complaining about it today. But guess what!! You have a choice! You can choose to not read it. I don't, and I live here. Maybe this thread should be moved to "counseling" because of the amount of crying that's been going on. I mean goddamn. I thought I was bad, talking about my feelings all the time. Apparently I'm not the only one who needs to be on medication. You threw down the gauntlet, knowing full well that it would get a response. You got it and now you're talking about how things shouldn't be settled over the internet??? Well I'll see you in L-town and we can talk about how "awful" everyone is. First round is on me. Lastly, I don't know a single climber my (self included) who is either normal or well adjusted, let alone both.

I'd be available for a session on Monday if you're still looking for a partner.

Here are a couple of things I had to consider when I left my job. 1. I was FUCKING miserable. I worked at a soul sucking job with a bitch of a boss, who made my life even more miserable when I failed to fawn over her like ever other man. I was so dissatisfied with my life that I once considered taking the big leap and staying six feet under. That dissatisfaction lead to the end of a relationship with a girl I wanted to marry and help raise her two kids. That shit sucks. If you feel like that, then cut the cord. But it doesn't sound like that's how you feel. you 2.Maybe its a life/work balance thing. If you work a ton of hours over what's required of you then perhaps a talk with your boss is in order. Failing that, maybe you can take some time off, climb your ass off then move to a place that has better weather and more high quality crags close to town (SLC!!!) You can be secure in the fact that you have a degree that allows you to gain employment not like having a BA in Anthropology or some unemployable shit like that. I'll add that I'm fucking broke and have had a hard time finding work, but thats that Anthro degree working for me. But with all that said I'm no longer having the life sucked out of me by that ominous black box in downtown PDX and I'm no longer contributing to the sucking of money out of other peoples pockets for medical costs not covered by their insurance and I'm happier because of it. Plus everything I've been through since that job has caused me to really focus on what's important to me and what I need to do to make some money and be happy at the same time.

That's sad. With all the other shit that goes on there you'd think they could find some better to pester. Better they ride there than ripping up some planters or railings somewhere. Though they should be allowed to do that too. I've always wondered how those jumps were.

Wish I could get someone to climb through a storm with me. Keep getting after it.

Thanks. I'll give them a call.

Is there an online resource for these old journals, or does anyone know if an area library has them (in Seattle) I'm going to check Multhnomah and Washington county(Portland) libraries. I've got a project I want to work on and might\will need access to older climbing journals. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance Bob

Wouldn't that be called a homemade chest harness? That's how I roll.

HA! Need a job first!

I agree! For the last couple of years I've been using a Mini Traxion by Petzel. I'll tie the middle of the rope into the anchor and use a gri-gri to descend the free stand. For the end the mini is rigged to I tie my pack off at the end (with stuff in it) as a counter weight.

Back in November I was told about a post detailing how people modified a pinky rest for these tools. For the life of me I can't find it now. I've tried a bunch of different variations in the search field, but with no luck. Any suggestions??

I agree However with no bike and no car I'm stuck with Dirty Butte.

I think part of what helped me was the fact that reaching the anchors I was using would be a little sketchy for those that don't climb.

I'm not talking about cams and draws. I'm not talking about adding to the plethora of condoms on the ground. I'm talking about a helmet and perhaps a large implement capable of beating the shit out any fuckers who throw rocks. I've spent a lot of time climbing there by myself and have never had any problems, until today. I was climbing (solo TR) at Silver bullet on when two high school aged kids poked their heads over the side and told me to smile for a picture. After snapping my photo they started to hurl rocks down at me. Small ones at first, then volleys of larger ones. Luckily I was on "Last Tango" which is to the right of "Silver Bullet" and was tucked behind a corner. This lasted for a few minutes before they left and ran around to the other side and started chucking rocks again. This time far from where I was hanging. By the time I made it to the top they where gone. I was already having a shitty session, so I took it as a sign to start the long bus ride back to West Portland. I was fuming the whole way. Again, this is the only time I've had this happen to me in over 30 solo trips. I've always thought "I should bring my helmet here in case someone starts chucking beer bottles off the side" but never did. That's going to change now. Ok, I think I'm done...