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Posts posted by t_rutl

  1. they bolted Everest this season and i find that sad... :(


    any portion of a mountain "could" be bolted but imo takes away from an alpine experience...it's not unreasonable to think there could be some, but it would be a rare case ya do so never bank on it unless it's established beta...even if there are some reported prepare for them to be unusable and have plan B...miles from camp and at the crux of a climb who wants to find a busted anchor and have nothing to use as an alternate???


    Shuksan has plenty of spots to throw a rap sling around...was up Memorial day and some are still left...but as was stated make sure your team has whatcha need to get to the rock...keeping the horse before the cart so to speak...but Shuksan is a beautiful peak and i'm sure you'll enjoy it regardless!!





  2. Mt. Erie outside of Anacortes. Plenty of low-mid 5th routes with bolts up top and a short jont to the bottom...good learning enviroment...killer view...can be busy when it's nice...tourist spot due to the viewpoint...climbing guide available at the Lake Erie Grocery



  3. Maybe nothing? I'm not exactly from the area.


    There are a few in Nelson's Select where it is listed as a recommendation. Don't have it with me at the moment, but it's in there.


    I'm not limiting myself to the Cascades, per se - I would like to find something this summer that features some degree of difficult ice.


    North Ridge or Colman Headwall on Baker, North Face of Shuksan, take a more difficult line up Adams Glacier on Adams...those are a couple that will run you into situations where a second tool would be useful if not necessary...earlier in the season the better but they've been done as late as August


    if you can track one down...grab a Grivel Matrix light...pair it with an Air Tech Evo or BD Venom and you'll be solid...or even your straight shaft axe will do

  4. Headed up there early tomorrow morning. What were you able to use for pro on the pyramid?


    didn't set any but for a sling around a well positioned rock on a sketch spot...there were deadman pits where pickets have been set but I didn't lay any...we just simulclimbed it for efficiency


    but the snow is still good enough for pickets so that'd prob be your best bet


    good luck and lemme know how she treated ya!

  5. Trip: Mount Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier


    Date: 5/25/2009


    Trip Report:

    I hope ya'll like pics!!


    With an actually favorable forecast for Memorial Day decided to brave the crowds for an ascent of Shuksan. To our pleasant surprise we found solitude. As we descended from the summit there wasnt a sole in sight.


    Left the car Sunday mid-afternoon. The snow started about a mile or so into things but was nice and consolidated and made good time onto Shannon Ridge. At that point it quickly turned to sluff and was a post-hole trek up the notch and onto the Sulphide.




    Although Baker was on quite the display!




    As evening crept in we found ourselves with spot for the tent, some alpenglow and a view of the summit.






    Set up our bivy, melted snow for H2O, packed down some calories and crashed for what was more of a catnap around 11:00. The alarm buzzed at 1:00 am and after some breakfast, shortly thereafter we were off. The snow was firm and we cruised to base of the summit pyramid in a smidge over 2 ours.




    Took 15 or so to refuel and up the couloir we went. Word had it that things were nasty by mid-morning so I was eager to get up and down and as far into the descent as we could before then. As the sun rose the N. Cascades put on quite a show and Baker gleamed.






    Steps were good up the couloir minus a couple sections where an previously attempted ski descent wiped them out. Booted up pretty smoothly for the most part. Followed some steps to the right which dead ended costing about 45 min but if that's it for problems not a bad day! The snow got thin in a spot or two so set up a belay on an outcropped rock...but conditions were quite nice over all.






    Quick pose for the summit shot then down and out!






    Great time to be out and how about the vis?!?!




    Gear Notes:

    Ice Axe, Crampons, pickets (never placed), slings (used once), SUNSCREEN!!, iPod for the slog out, snowshoes would have been nice when things where more firm but would have been useless for the plunge stepping out


    Approach Notes:

    Good boot pack all the way up. Snow starts a mile or so in but is melting at a rapid rate. From the notch to the Sulphide, soft slides ABOUNDED and you have to traverse right in the thick of them. Be aware...

  6. Trip: Whitehorse Mountain - Neiderprum Trail


    Date: 4/26/2009


    Trip Report:

    On a whim gave the Neiderprum a hoot...wanted to take the glacier direct but couldnt track down a partner for that route...passed a trio coming off and was quite jealous they caught that day for the Whitehorse Glacier!! They did some serious work and it looked too fun!


    Started out cold and clear with Whitehorse beaming in morning hours




    After exiting the tortuous miles of switchbacks we landed on a trough of avy debris. With the cold night before the neve couldnt have been better although, some sections debris were ankle twisting chunks of ice. All it all it was much nicer taking a direct route up to Lone Tree Pass rather than bush whacking.




    Great view of the summit and weather to boot!




    Just shy of Lone Tree some recent snow fell. Some nice sugar that made things a little more interesting. After continuing along the ridge snow conditions were still quite good and took a direct route down to make the traverse to High Pass. After crossing through the last section of forest the sun started to warm things up and the immense amount of ice on the cliff bands above began to melt and break away. We scooted past that had lunch and dropped any extra weight (snowshoes, stove, ect).




    After making the arduous ascent up to High Pass we were socked in with clouds and light snow. Due to the low vis we moved slow, very slow. As there was a small break we took steps until we could see any more. Thankfully the party ahead of us on the glacier direct were descending the Neiderprum giving us a path to follow in less than ideal conditions. As we booted up the summit it was nice to see that the snow finger led straight to the top!




    After a min or two at the top it was time to head out. No view and it was getting cold up there. Just as we descended the snow finger onto the glacier the weather broke revealing some amazing photo ops...




    After 30 min or so the system passed and we were back under blue skies...if we only this view once we hit the glacier!




    Made the trek down High Pass, picked up the cached gear and traversed to Lone Tree. As the sun set atop Lone Tree I knew it would take a bit longer to make it to the rig. Set tracks with the GPS and had spare batts and headlamps so weren't concerned. Made it out and headed home!




    Gear Notes:

    ice axe, crampons, snow shoes (not needed), stove (for water...no natural sources yet), rope


    Approach Notes:

    Snow free through the switch backs of the "official" Neiderprum trai and easy to follow. Exited east to continue up avalanche gully to Lone Tree

  7. was up there a couple weeks ago...used a snowmobile for the approach (cheating I know but was short on time) to the TH but left the chainsaw...deadlifting a snomobile is no fun...the road is only 4 mi and some change...over the first 2.5 you'll end up with about 8-10 downed sections then it's free and clear to the turn off where the trail head is...also the snow was only a few inches deep in some areas so may be spotty by now...but that was a couple weeks ago

  8. alright...thanks for the info man...plan was to take advantage of this nice little weekend weather window...hump it out today up to Lone Tree and summit tomorrow...gotta love it when your climbing partner delays things until noon and you gotta call it off...looks like a winter ascent it is...


    when the snow recedes and that thing gets exposed late in the year...it worth bringing any rock pro?

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