t_rutl
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Posts posted by t_rutl
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Alpine Ascents added some more dates...
Rainier Dates Added
Please note we have added 3 more dates to our Mt. Rainier 3-Day Climb of the Muir Route
September 23-25, 25-27 , 27-29
http://www.alpineascents.com/rainier-climb-muir.asp
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Trip: Mount Baker - North Ridge
Date: 7/11/2009
Trip Report:
With hopes of standing atop Alpamayo, Artesonraju, Cook, Ama Dablam and the likes over the next few seasons it was time to take on the alpine ice. While on an excursion to Ouray this past winter I ran into Matt Wade in the Ice Park who recently established Peak Mountain Guides (www.peakmountainguides.com). As we got to talking, come to find out he spends his summers guiding in the Cascades. We decided to connect while he was out here for a shot at Baker’s North Ridge as intro to steep, committing alpine ice routes. Done deal and set for mid-July. The plan was to bike Glacier Creek Road and camp at Merkwood Friday. Spend Saturday as a rest day/playing on the ice and move up onto the Coleman. Sunday would be our summit day then pack out Monday.
As the forecast unfolded that sounded like a bad idea. We ended up biking Glacier Creek Road, lugging the packs up onto the Coleman and camping on the “Football Field” around 6,600’ all on Friday. Crashing at 10pm the alarm went off at 1:30 and shortly thereafter we were on our way.
Camp
Glacier Sunset
Route finding across the Coleman proved to be trickier than anticipated. We approached the “Cutoff” as dawn approached.
View back towards camp
The ‘schrund was fairly established so Matt pitched a short run onto the slope above.
After 800 or so vert feet up 45 degree slopes on good nevé things backed off a bit until reaching the crux onto the upper ice cap. After a short section of vertical ice Matt set a belay to attain the upper ridge which we ran out in two pitches on 50m rope.
Once atop we short-roped up the slopes starting at 50 degrees easing back slightly until the final steep section crossing a sketchy bridge onto the summit plateau.
All in all: 11 hrs on route to summit (includes more tricky route finding on the Coleman and an on route “new boot blues” foot patching session). We hoofed it down the Coleman/Demming to camp in just a shade over two hours and collapsed after a long day right after a long day all while running on next to no sleep. 5 Hour Energy and a fistful of Advil…the breakfast of champions!!
Even though exhausting, our new itinerary proved worthwhile. The clouds, wind, rain, lightning and thunder moved in Sunday which would have kyboshed our summit attempt. As we rode down the 7 mile windy road it poured and we were soaked to the bone. Thankfully dry clothes were waiting.
In summary: The Coleman is still in good shape but things are really starting to open up. The cutoff is still attainable and snow/ice conditions were close to ideal all the way up ridge. Crossing onto the summit plateau is still relatively straight forward but could change at a moments notice. Decent down the Coleman/Demming was cake compared to the North Ridge up. Bikes are by far the way to go and grab one of those child carrier trailers (brilliant Matt!!) for the packs. It was truly a wilderness experience. Didn’t see a soul but for two on Heliotrope on our way out. Will post some more shots from the other perspective as soon as I get them.
Our approx. route as seen from camp...lower X marks the cutoff, upper marks the crux
Gear Notes:
Glacier gear, crampons, 2 tools, 8 screws (6 x 16cm, 2 x 22cm), 2 pickets, 50m x 8mm rope and bikes!
Approach Notes:
Bikes for Glacier Creek Road!! Heliotrope is in good shape. Things are snow free atop Hogsback. Plenty of running water.
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what's the binding system on the Vasak's?
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Mammut Lucido TX1
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Trip: Sahale Peak - Sahale Arm/Glacier
Date: 7/4/2009
Trip Report:
with a climbing partner just off PT for an ankle injury and a tenderfoot who's never worn a pack...due to it's rep for a moderate approach, great alpine views and straight forward snow and rock we decided to make a run up Sahale as a warm up for the roomie and intro for the newbie. plan was orginaly a day trip but decided to camp not knowing how both would take to the outing and to add to the experience...i'm a shutterbug so dont mind the pics
left the trailhead around 4:30 Friday afternoon...new guy was huffing and puffing so didnt roll into camp until after 9...with clear skies and a near full moon it was gonna be good!
route looks straight forward from the arm
set up shop, ate, prepped for the morn and hit the sack about 11...alarm buzzed at 1:30 and after some breakfast we were off about an hour later...i'm glad we made it an overnighter...the pain in the ass slush was now cooled to perfect cramponing conditions...we cruised across the "glacier" and up to the summit rocks well before sunrise...spent a few waiting for it to lighten up a bit soaking in the pre-dawn glow then headed up...great frozen stairmaster steps from the previous postholers led us up without travail
the rock was straight forward...opted for a more challenging line straight up the middle rather than attaining either ridge line...mostly class 4 with about three very short low-5th stints...stayed roped, simuled and slung a couple slings for the newbie's sake but he was a stud and did work...had the summit to ourselves an saw no others on route
the on the summit for a glorious sunrise...does it get any better??!!
roomie, me, newbie on a self timer shot
good 'ol "Boston Peak"
Glacier Peak & Rainier
Baker, Shuksan, Eldo, Forbidden
descent down the rocks was cake and the snow was still firm...even after spending an hour plus on the summit we were back to camp by 8:30
i think he's got a little captain in him?
brazen little food thieves...
then out for some whitewater rafting on the wenatchee with the girl!
Gear Notes:
crampons for early am cruising, axe for chasing marmots and making day hikers up cascade pass ask questions, iPod for the jog out, 30m glacier floss and a few slings/biners to give my buddy some confidence on his first shot out but you can easily get away w/o them
Approach Notes:
normal traffic up to cascade pass. small patch here and there but really is snow free up to the arm. running water just below the talus field climbing up to camp. good snow coverage right up to the summit rocks. i prefer a 2am start vs. sluff to the knees that and the solitude and sunrise cant be beat. pick a line up the rocks. some 3-4 lines...some 4 with fun little 5 moves...snow right now goes right up to the base of the good stuff...no scree...no talus
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The Momentum AL does look like a good call. It seems like a good all-arounder.
I've checked out the new webbing-style harnesses by Arc'teryx and BD - they're interesting, and seem super light (if that matters?), but it seems like the edges of the leg loops and waistbelt would cut into you when you weight it. I just tried them on at REI though, so you can probably tell me how they are in practice.
I loved my Arc'teryx Targa - it was like a $60 version of the Vapor back when no one else made harnesses that could touch theirs.
The Momentum comes in at 405g and my Arc'Teryx R320 at 320g so the weight difference is negledgable as far as i'm concerned...to be honest i bought it because i'm a gear whore and it was one of the coolest new things that came out
it is quite comfortable and does not dig in...the momentum is super comfy as well...also it requires you to double back on both the waist and leg loops...the R320 has fixed legs and an auto double back on the waistI dont think anybody can go wrong buying the Momentum...especially at $55!!
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like most said you should be just fine...if you feel the need to upgrade but trips will be few and far inbetween just rent a 4 season
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BD Momentum AL (or Primrose for the ladies) is a great choice for a new harness IMO...light, comfy, adjustable, rear haul loop, thick belay loop and only like $55
i have a couple for loaners when new people hit the crag...i use one for most alpine stuff
not all harnesses are "auto doubled back" although there are starting to be more and more
companies are starting to go to a new method of load bearing...rather than padding an almost linked webbing contracts to distribute the pressure (look at Arc'teryx's Warp Technology)...makes for a nice gig when hanging or taking a whipper but expensive (think ~$130)...i use my Arc'teryx R320 for sport and long, hot trad days
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my reverso bites just fine on a 8mm...6mm prussiks bite fine too as long as they are a more limber cord
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great TR and that is an awesome variantion
well done
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http://www.komonews.com/news/local/49630757.html
MOUNT RAINIER -- A climbing ranger was injured while skiing down from Mt. Rainier's summit Wednesday afternoon.
Two rangers had reached the summit earlier in the day and were skiing back down to Camp Sherman when one punched through a hole in the snow and fell 40 feet into a crevasse, said Rainier Park spokesman Lee Taylor.
The ranger's partner was able pull him out of the crevasse with the help of two other guides on the same route.
Taylor says it appears the ranger suffered a leg injury. A rescue helicopter from Ranger Creek was heading up to the site to airlift the climber off the mountain and take him to Harborview Medical Center in Seattle.
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Ascend the Qui'en Sabe and descend Sahale arm for a great loop climb.
that's my first choice and looks like a fantastic trek but this is my buddy's first trip out after a 6 week layoff...i think a repeat will be in order later in the season
QS has a few large crevasses to navigate. The Arm has one gap that you can walk around in two minutes.QS has a longer approach via Boston Basin, which is great for camping if you plan to go overnight. The Arm has a trail that's shorter, friendlier, more continuously scenic, and well suited to a day trip.
Both end on the summit, which has some of the best views in the state. Both have great views along the way.
So....that's a long-winded way of saying if you plan a daytrip go do the Arm.
that's the info i'm looking for...QS looks like more of a "challenge" but the Arm looks more condusive for what's needed
thanks all!!
peace,
-T
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Looking to take a quick jaunt up Sahale Saturday. The roomie needs a moderate trek to get back in the swing of things after recovering from an ankle injury. Haven't taken the time to mount up on Sahale yet and she looks like a good option.
How's the Sahale vs. Quien Sabe Glacier approach and route compare? I've got that both are realativily straight forward but any preference or is it 6 one way, half dozen the other?
-T
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sweet shot of the Shuk!
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fantastic TR and helluva route
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you'd be happier with something stiffer soled...if its mild enough out backing boots suffice just fine...gaiters would make life a little nicer...crampons should you need'm and axe for self arrest/brake on the glissade...or a trekking pole
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22 y/o guy on the main wall had a hand hold break loose...rock was big enough it busted his leg as it bounced and hit...missed his belayer...lowered him down and called 911...Anacortes Fire stabilized and walked him down where Skagit Couty Sheriff could pull him out on a litter...that is the summmary directly from Anacortes Fire
i find that odd but anything can happen when hit just right...
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I have a pair but only one has seen action. It's usually my Evo and Matrix. Anyway this one is collection dust and figured I'd offload it to make room for something else.
I bought it earlier this year from Moosejaw:
Brand new, never out on the ice...light, swings great and pairs perfect with the Evo.
Asking $100. I'm about 45 min north of Seattle. Would be willing to meet.
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eVent. Big raves on the new waterproof membrane from several sources. Tried a jacket and was impressed at the breathability although I have not had it out in any extreme conditions to comment on its weatherproofness. Was in the market for a new pair of boots; a 3 season technical boot. Local gear shops have raved about the new Kayland boots utilizing eVent so gave the Apex XT a go. Full shank, light and fit my foot.
After having it out on a few occasions I'm not impressed. I can tell they breathe better as the feet don't feel as stifling hot on the approach. But even on a one or two day slog through snow I end up with damp socks and, at times, serious moisture under the insoles.
Anybody else had positive or negative experiences with eVent lined footwear?
-T
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weather clearing across Whitehorse
descending the East Ridge of Eldorado
Mammut Mamook
in The Gear Critic
Posted
the boys at Second Ascent love them...they're a Raichle design so you cant really go wrong...reason they are lighter: more synthetic material and a carbon shank...might be a bit warm for summers in the Cascades but that can be alleviated with a change of socks...Altrec.com carries them and has a similar return policy to REI so if they fall apart in a season you can prob return them but knowing Mammut I doubt that will happen!