Lucky Larry
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Posts posted by Lucky Larry
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sounds like things are 'out' right now.
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Mostly easier stuff to lead and moderate to follow-alpine or rock; unless i am feeling really hungry. put me on the c-list.
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Any suggestions for whats in condition for moderate technical alpine climbs this time of year in Washington Cascades/sans big approaches if possible.
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well, I had Madame Bovary to read; the poor thing just can't make up her mind who she wants to co-noodle with. Sleep? Not much cause too excited/amped.The last two nights I sorta slept and even had a non-sexual intriguing dream about 3 sisters that were checking me out and passing me around-I'm not joking. I did make a run back to the car to grab more fuel/food. The only thing I ended up with on the way out was too much coffee, too little sleep, and a big-old-hard-on. OK, maybe not that big; but it was hard. Really hard. And old. And thinking whats next. And laughing more than once at myself for stupid thoughts. Now i have to hide the dry roasted peanuts or I'm going to blow chips. And recover, hopefully, enough for the next thing.jeebus larry, you humped a week's worth of shit in and hung out alone all that time - you bring a book or really catch up on your sleep?
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I guess you can't judge a book, or owner, buy it's cover.Tell that to the 90 mph winds I had to deal with recently and oh yes we actually have glaciers and big ones here in Wyoming because it gets COLD.Having spent my fair share of time using tarps (blue) and other primitive and improvised shelters in the Wind River Range, yes they do work and no you don't need a $600 tent and no I didn't even say that, I merely opined that some piece of crap Walmart tent don't belong here.
$600 tents are much more of a Colorado phenomenon since there is so much yuppie trash (although to be fair we do have Jackson) there, just love it when we get overrun with CO plates. Funny thing is that tends to be in August when we have such nice weather.
Anyhow, it can be quite amusing to see all the hordes of out-of-staters and their rico tents all over the Cirque and Titcomb, but fortunately they seem to be nice folks so I don't really mind even if my $90 tent isn't nearly as nice.
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Trip: Three Sisters Wilderness - N. Sister, M. Sister
Date: 8/31/2010
Trip Report:
Date Aug 31 to Sept 7. Did N. Sister to summit snow patch and turned around because sketchy looking scree after snow patch. Did M. Sister twice. Reg route: had two small snow patches, one just above notch, and one near summit; collier glacier route w/second highest snow field to E. ridge to summit-sketchy, interesting, talus blocks to summit. Snow was perfect neve' before sun hit. Practice crampon technique. Short re-con to east side. Fatigue/weather coincided at nearly the same time for trip out.
Gear Notes:
crampons, one tool; should have brought two for second highest snow field?/glacier to play around on it more: probably around 40 degree angle; not sure, but would have felt way more secure.
Approach Notes:
Obsidian TH
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this is getting funny. i did have a cheap-o yrs ago for the valley slum and i think it ended up costing me 25 cents a nite before it shredded. I hate to admit it but I was consumed by brand name shit 4 awhile when i worked in retail outdoor and made a few bad/impulse purchases. i should have researched what the big boys use-not that i will ever be on par/w them but 4 re-sale value. i am always amazed, I shouldn't be, at peoples remarks, such as, 'looks like you have good gear', with the implication in their voice that that's all it takes. Sometimes the product hype,(heres the bait) like Goretex is just like politics; all hype.
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good luck, I had a pair i sold 4 $200Two fine ice tools used only 2x. In near new condition (some scuff marks). Selling as a pair for $400.00. These sell new for $220 ea plus tax. If interested send email to ged3@msn.com. -
well now I will probably seal both sides now as the seams seemed to have stretched out some. yes the quiver of tents; I just took a Siltarp tarp 4 below t-line in the rain and the highlight 4 above t-line/sans rain. good combo. plus the Siltarp still works as a bivi sack if things get real ugly-haven't had to do it and hope i never will, and makes 4 a good pillow in a stuff sack.Yes, I do need a pillow 4 my good neck or it goes bad.TMI but i am considering having a panel w/ guy line put into the 1st light; many tents have reinforced areas w/guy points. what do I have to lose? my life if i can't depend on the tent. oh, the threads of this post, when will it end?I did just that...not that I was worried about the seams bursting, just don't want any precip leaking into my tent. I've had mine for 5 years and it IS my go-to tent. It is willow-light, but has put up with all the weather and abuse I've come up against. -
Where is Strobach or is this hush hush? Just up in 3 sisters and the snow/snice was excellent before the sun hit. I kind of blew it though cause I only had one tool w/me but it was exciting even if I only did maybe 200ft of 45 degree; but did a lot of lower angle training anyway.I'll second Strobach. It has some good stuff that comes in regularly. The approach takes about 2 hours and isn't that bad (hardly any bushwhacking). Everything from WI3 to 5+/6, mostly single pitch stuff. -
Fees blow; they go against freedom of choice, liberty, pursuit of climbing and are discriminatory. For example: remember when it was poor people that went camping? Boycott these places, dollars speak louder than words, meetings, and bureaucracy. History is in the hands of the powerful. Freedom of choice is to go elsewhere while you still can.Folks, I got word that Denali has increased the special use fees for climbing from $200 to $500 without any public input on the program. I am not sure of rules regarding such fees but in previous discussions Denali said that they would solicit public input. They went back on their word and slipped the increase through this past week.Rainier is also looking at fee increase. However, they are just beginning the process.
Attached is a joint letter sent by the Access Fund, Alpine Club, and the AMGA.
http://www.sci.utah.edu/~allen/misc/J.Jarvis_fee_letter.pdf
Note that not only is the letter sent to the NPS but also to many congressional Senator and Representatives.
I would suggest that folks start talking to their Senators and Representatives - I have never been happy with the fees. Especially, on Denali for a variety of reasons. Seems they are trying to use climbers as a cash cow for services that many do not want. Rainier has been better but I still have reservations.
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JO has the real shit Dave: alien beings, people living in center earth, Armageddon, the poor Israelites being oppressed,buy gold(he hasn't in the 25 yrs he's been telling me to), Jesus is the only way to heaven; and more. just 4 fun stuff.WHERE THE HELL IS TRASHIE to tell us all how it REALLY IS/WILL BE??? He can't post and climb at the same time? Maybe he is not as smart as he thinks he is afterall???(Um, no, we all know that is impossible).
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a couple of people have told me that dyneema slings will cut themselves when knotted; any truth in that?
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would like to add a comment about tradition: a lot of traditions actually suck the big one--to blindly do things because they have always been done a certain way may also be the definition of insanity: doing same thing, expecting different results. Joe: believe it or not we do share a lot in common. Thanks 4 sharing on a lot of stuff I was clueless about. Best wishes, Old clueless Larry
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Thanks Dave, I couldn't have said it better.You know what they say, point a finger and there are three pointing back at ya. nineteen eighty-four (is today); eric aurthur blair pen name george orwellPut the 44 mag to yer skull and pull the trigger if you think EITHER PARTY is going to bring hope and change to the working folk. This country, and the world, for that matter is run by big business and nothing is going to change that (IMO). The power is just going to continue to get more consolidated and we will just struggle more to keep off the streets.Funny to watch the opposing sides battle it out, either side always pointing out all the flaws of the other, yet never recognizing the same (or worse) flaws on their own side. Fawk'n politics.
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Sure. If the only thing a person is hearing is bitching then they are probably not going to hear anything else someone may be trying to say; like how things might be done better in the future, or something that might be constructive. I do not want any routes or bolts to be chopped, erased, or otherwise: no one learns anything from something like that. I wanted to try and open things up to a dialogue, not a diatribe; my apologies to Joe. If we as individuals cannot admit to our own mistakes, or the possibility that we made one, then we won't see how we can do anything better in the future. If Joe doesn't see his re-bolting, replacing, or whatever the hell you want to call it as an indiscriminate act, so be it--what the F do I care; it's not my problem. If stupid bolts or traffic or cold coffee ruin your day then look at yourself for an answer. We are all entitled to our own f'in opinions and belief systems. In the end who gives a fig? There are much bigger issues in the world today than stupid climbing. I'm sure you can come up with your own examples. IMO climbing is just an ego/vanity trip anyway-ooo, I'm so cool pursuing something that risks my life and helps no one. I'm just pissed my ankle is injured and I can't climb--boo-whoo, poor pitiful me. I am just killing time posting stupid shit that doesn't amount to shit. All this is a joke compared to all the real shit that's happening, isn't it? Best wishes, Old pitiful LarryLarry could you clarify what you mean by this post?
Well, if all you hear is bitching, and not opinions...I rest my case. -
Well, if all you hear is bitching, and not opinions...I rest my case.
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alright already, thanks 4 all ur bolts and work Joe. I have never placed a bolt and I am just curious why u did not use the safer swiss system of bolt placements, vertically, instead of the more questionable horizontal, side by side, placements? RE: YW 1st pitch bolt placements; if they worry u u can actually use nuts and a cam right next to three of the dam things. RE: the route climbers L of Flying Dutchman-why three bolt stations in 180 ft Joe? If your answer is because they were historical that's hysterical-totally unnecessary bro. If we lead by example then what is it we are teaching? While I'm at it why the bolts at the start of the 3rd pitch of YW? Perfect bomber crack there right in your face with an even more bomber upward directional at your feet. Historically there was never a bolt rap station at the base of the slab on SE corner. Just saying a lot of stuff should have been left alone because 1. it was historical 2. routes should not be changed from the way they were first put up unless your talking about the over bolting on YW or any other over bolted routes 3. a lot of routes were never put up to be rapped off; ground up, commitment and all that 4. how about personal responsibility when climbing and using your own head to figure when something is safe, or not safe, instead of making everything safe-because it isn't-and it sounds like the sport route mentality; which isn't fool proof either: everyone has seen them. I am not saying this to piss you or anyone else off. Tradition does have value and in a lot of cases is better than most of the beliefs we have been consumed by, and are consuming the planet. As far as legacy you were not around when the climbers were going to all the meetings in Vancouver and Olympia and such; so you have that part wrong Joe. The BRSP let the climbers down Joe; they never set up the yearly review meetings that they themselves agreed too, and the climbers never got on their ass about it because they wanted to just get along. I have made a lot of mistakes Joe, it's just that i admit that I have. One person on a quest, for right or wrong, does not make a locals tangible effort- it's takes communication and more than one member to build a locals effort. I am not against re-bolting, just revolting. Best wishes, Old LarryWell, you're definitely right about the selfish part. I rope-solo YW on summer full moon nights without a headlamp which makes p1 / p2 a bit spicier then normal and ups the possibility I might actually dive on one of those bolts. After the Index bolts came off I started looking at the YW bolts and the more I looked the less I liked what I saw given what I'd seen of the bolts in all the anchors I replaced.And legacy? Ha, that's a good one! The only 'legacy' I'm interested in when I'm old is being able to remember my name, not piss on myself, and show up in public with my pants on.
No, the whole point of the anchor replacement project was to establish some demonstrable investment of concern, cooperation, time, money, and effort by locals so when the WSP gets around to re-forming the Climber's Advisory Committee (CAC), locals will have something tangible and documented to point in order to claim we are the responsible, knowledgeable, and cooperating party when it comes to managing climbing at Beacon. That came about in direct response to the AF repeatedly stating they, on the other hand, would be seeking a CAC membership that was a 'proportional representation' of the broader WA / OR climbing community and not be made up of just Beacon locals, i.e. a CAC with at most one Beacon local on it.
I don't know about anyone else, but I personally found and find that prospect totally unacceptable and so I set about attempting to establish some form of tangible 'legacy' that locals and the BRSP could point to and be able to claim that locals are the responsible stewards of climbing at Beacon. At the time I started that the only public legacy locals had was a long history of breaking the closure, shit-talking the agencies and people involved with managing Beacon, partying, and endless complaining. Not exactly what you want to point to when it comes time to explain why locals deserve majority representation on any reconstituted CAC.
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my only objection to the 3rd bolt is that it was placed so close to a crack; how safe is that?Oh, while we're at it, not three weeks ago Jim explicitly stated that the anchor for rapping into LoLP was "perfect" and "shouldn't be fucked with", and not a week or so later one of you pudknockers slapped a third fatty in there, unrigged the ring pin, and re-webbed the whole affair. So which one of you guys did the deed against Jim's explicit wishes and where are the howls of righteous indignation and moral outrage over it?[ P.S. Maybe next time just replace the two suck bolts rather than slam a fatty in third; and you might also want go back up there and melt the ends of those slings... ]
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thank uHey Larry, when you reply to a topic (or start one for that matter) there's a box you can check that says "add this thread to my watched topics" that should do it. You might have to edit your your preferences (MY STUFF on the top bar, pull down menu to Preferences) to make sure the box labeled By default should anything added to your Watch Lists be emailed to you? is checked "yes".Otherwise, yes, you have to keep checking threads to see if anyone has responded to you.
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Osama Bin Ladin is not a Muslim (one who submits to God) anymore than the Spanish conquistadores were Christens; he is a fanatical megalomaniac-like Hitler. He no more represents Islamic faith than those involved in the inquisition represented the Christen faith. 'Mission accomplished', says Bin. 'I have conquered America by dividing it's people into angry, bitter, auguring mobs of citizens and politicians; they will eat each other alive.'
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can't say I've tried everything and no one has ever been able to point at anything specifically after all the tests have been done but I have just had to listen to my trick back more and lower my expectations or suffer being laid up for weeks at a time in bed. I now cross train; never really use to : bicycle, hike, stretching (way less intensely than I use to; it was causing problems too), backpack (too boring?) and walking and smelling the coffee. I know this sounds like a real drag; it is at any age when your hooked on the high of rock climbing. I was/still am to the point of ignoring the inner voice of reason and throwing my back out dozens of times in the past. A lot of people pop a lot of pills just to keep going. Some go to surgery. I get depressed thinking of all the climbing I can no longer do. But wtf, there really is more to life than just climbing-I tell myself-especially when I am able to walk again after weeks in bed. Personally climbing is a neuroses in me and I have to watch myself or suffer the consequences-bed rest. Many would argue that it's a selfish sport that does nothing for anyone-exactly why I liked it: no cash, publicity, fans-completely meaningless in the moment shit. Pure selfish ego and no reward; just a drive to repeat the experience over and over.TMI? best wishes with your decision.
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nut sure homesI finally got up there and climbed last night. It was as bad as I've ever climbed - whatever the reverse of flow is, but I didn't see any signs that said no climbing anywhere. When did they take them down, or was it a joke? -
nice, and thanks 4 the biner capture rope clip jug reminder; although John long has never had a jug pop off the rope it doesn't mean it can't/won't/shouldn't/couldn't/wouldn't happenPlace thine protection well lest the ground rise up to smite thee.
Whats 'in' for moderate technical Alpine?
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