I personally know 3 climbers who've been seriously injured in falls on R&D. You might glean from this that all my friends are lousy climbers, but I would put it down to the fact that a lot of inexperienced climbers lead R&D because of it's moderate difficulty and location right next to the road. I've anchored from the rock at the top 4 times, even though I'm not someone who's reluctant to reject an anchor if I think it might not be strong enough. I also read the analysis of the Sharkfin accident, and know at least one of the authors, and have been even more dilligent about evaluating potential anchors. That said, that rock ain't movin'. I don't know how accurate Bug's calculation is, but 8000# wouldn't surprise me at all. The biggest problem with that rock is that it's about 61 meters from where you started the pitch, so I always make sure to move my belayer right up close to the wall in hopes that I can make it to the rock without us having to simul-climb a bit.
I agree that it doesn't make sense to put bolts everywhere someone has difficulty anchoring. On the other hand, local rescue personnel are all too familiar with that route, and if THEY felt they needed bolts installed to facilitate rescues, or avoid some, I'd support that.
I'd also point out to sport climbers that, while you may be stronger than me, that doesn't mean you know how to climb trad, and the learning curve for it is a lot longer than the one for clipping bolts. You need to get competent instruction, and anyone teaching you to lead on gear should also be teaching you self-rescue. Oh, and I climb sport quite a bit, too so spare me your US vs. THEM flaming, I was just making a point, that's all.
