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jstluise

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Everything posted by jstluise

  1. I emailed Dave Page and asked about re-gluing the outsole. He said I'm guessing that means resoled? Anyways, it is $75 for the pair. I'll probably just do that since the uppers are still in great shape.
  2. Thanks! I'll check him out.
  3. I have a pair of Asolo Powermatic 200 GV boots that have served me well for the last 8 years or so. After my last climb I discovered the outsole is completely coming off at the midfoot/forefoot on both boots. Can anyone recommend a good way to fix this? It seems like pulling the entire outsole off and re-gluing it (type of glue?) after the proper prep would be the best way. Or, maybe someone can recommend a shop that can do this repair that won't break the bank (Seattle/Bellevue area). Thanks
  4. Great weekend for it, huh? How was the weather for you on Sunday morning for the summit? I wasn't expecting the cloud cover on Saturday morning but at least we still had some views...and it did keep us cool on the way down. It was sure getting hot by the time we got back to the car. I too noticed some inconsistencies with the labeling of The Hourglass and Fisher Chimney between the maps and info I found online.
  5. Trip: Mount Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys Date: 7/17/2015 Trip Report: We had a great time up on Mount Shuksan and the Fisher Chimneys route on Friday and Saturday. This was our first time up the Fisher Chimneys (previously climbed via the Sulphide) and we really enjoyed it. Lots of fun scrambling on this route! Brief summary of route conditions: Overall the route is in good shape; however, it will be interesting to see how the Upper Curtis glacier looks in a few weeks. Currently one snow bridge remains at the toe of the glacier that provides the only route up onto the glacier. Once that opens up the route may be out for the season. A guide we talked to mentioned the glacier doesn't usually look like that until September. Other than that, everything else was great. Chimneys and summit pyramid gully are snow free. Bivy sites open above and below Winnies Slide, as well as running water at both camps. Trip Details: -Day 1 With a excellent weather forecast for the weekend we were excited to try out the Fisher Chimneys route. Our last trip up Shuksan (Sulphide route) was in the clouds with zero views so this would be a good change. Our plan was to get up above the chimneys on Friday, camp, and then summit before heading home on Saturday. We were on the Lake Ann trail by about noon on Friday and it wasn't long before we passed the lake and were heading up the switchbacks to the entrance of the chimneys. From reading previous reports and gathering route info, it seemed picking the right entrance for the chimneys is tricky. Our problem turned out to be before that. Mt. Baker from Lake Ann trail Shuksan, the chimneys, uppper/lower Curtis, and Hell's Highway Baker Lake Lower Curtis Glacier Mt. Baker and Lake Ann The main Lake Ann trail ended but the climbers trail continued with cairns every so often. Eventually we hit a washout in the trail and couldn't quite figure out where to go next: up through a little gully that looked okay, or continue traversing up closer to the Lower Curtis. We chose the latter which turns out is not the preferred way to go. We did see a couple cairns so we weren't the only ones that took that route. Anyways, after some traversing we started to head up to what looked like the start of the Chimneys. Luckily everything panned out and we found the entrance, which included the big boulder with white painted arrow. On the chimneys We had no issues navigating the chimneys and it took us just under an hour to scramble up through the class 3 rock to the first camp. There we met up with a group of 7 that arrived a bit before us. We had also passed a guided group of two coming up the chimneys. So, there were plenty of spots to camp but we decided to continue since I read about some bivy site "above Winnies Slide". Here is where the confusion began. We climbed the first steep snow after the first camp and found more bivy sites, just at the base of the Upper Curtis glacier (with plenty of running water). With all the beta I got on the route, it should have obvious that we just climbed Winnies Slide and those were in fact the bivy sites, but we second guess it mainly because the USGS map mislabeled where Winnies Slide is. The map says Winnies Slide is on the north side of the Upper Curtis. That made me think the bivy sites were on the ridge just north of the Upper Curtis, so that is the way we headed. Above the chimneys We donned our glacier gear and hopped onto the Upper Curtis. The glacier was pretty broken up and heading directly northeast to the ridge wasn't going to happen because of the crevasses. Instead, we took the only route we saw which meandered up through the middle of the glacier. We were the first ones up on the glacier for the weekend since we didn't see any tracks. Once on top of the glacier it was a straight shot to the ridge. We found a lone and tiny bivy site there. Still not convinced we were in the right spot, we figured it was good enough and set up camp anyways. We weren't about to go back down! We made it to camp by about 7pm. The worst part was that there was no running water, so we had to melt snow. Other than that, it was a good spot with nice views all around. Sunset Mt. Baker sunset Mt. Baker sunset Pink glacier Sunset -Day 2 We slept in and after a quick breakfast, we were back on the glacier by 630am. A light layer of clouds rolled in overnight and it was a bit breezy, but we couldn't complain. It was a quick shot over the glacier and up Hell's Highway without any issues. We saw some fresh tracks in front of us: the guided party. No sign of the large group. Near the top of Hell's Highway North cascades Glacier Peak The Sulphide looked good and we had a pretty direct line up to the summit pyramid where we dropped our crampons and ax before heading up the main gully. By this time there was a couple parties in the gully and one on the ridge. Almost to the summit pyramid We met up with the guide at the base of the summit pyramid. He mentioned the large group left before he did and ended up bailing after not being able to navigate the Upper Curtis. It was early (3am I think he said), so maybe they didn't see our tracks? The guide mentioned the Upper Curtis doesn't usually look this bad until September and he wouldn't be surprised if the route is out in a few weeks. We didn't get involved in any traffic jams and made the quick scramble up the snow free gully. We were on the summit by 8:45a, just over 2 hours from leaving the camp. A bit windy on the top so we didn't stay long, but had enough time to soak in the views. View from the summit We kept the rope stowed and downclimbed the gully, mainly because rappelling with the short glacier rope we brought for the two of us probably would have been more trouble that it was worth. Once back on the glacier it was pretty uneventful going back down to camp and heading back to the top of the chimneys. By that time clouds were burning off and the sun was coming out. It was going to be a warm day. Heading down the Upper Curtis Glacier Looking back up the Upper Curtis Coming down the chimneys Like the gully, we opted to downclimb the chimneys. There are plenty of rap stations if you want to use them, though. When we hit the bottom of the chimneys, we followed the correct route this time back to Lake Ann. After a quick stop at the lake for some water and to dip our feet, we were back on the (now very warm) trail to the car. Entrance to Chimneys (center of image) Since we both like scrambling up rock, this route was pretty fun. Would definitely do it again, but this time we would stay above the actual Winnies Slide. While our makeshift high camp saved us a little time on summit day, the lack of running water made it much less desirable. Our route. Green - Ascent, Magenta - Descent. You can see where we dropped down before getting to the chimneys entrance. Our times: 4hr30m from car to top of chimneys (base of Winnies Slide) 2hr from top of chimneys to our high camp 2hr15m from high camp to summit 7hr from summit to car (with 30m stop at Lake Ann) Since I didn't see any GPS data anywhere for the route, here are some waypoints: Chimneys Entrance: N48° 49' 53.3" W121° 37' 26.0" Camp 1 (below Winnies Slide): N48° 49' 54.4" W121° 37' 02.8" Camp 2 (above Winnies Slide): N48° 49' 52.7" W121° 36' 56.4" I tried to attach my GPS data, but it seems I cannot attach .GPX files anymore. I'll try to find an alternative. Gear Notes: Standard glacier gear. We climbed the gully of the summit pyramid so we did not need any rock pro.
  6. Thanks, makes sense now. Forgot to ask...is there any running water above the chimneys?
  7. Great! Thanks! Even though it was a couple weeks ago it at least give me a gauge for what the conditions are. Sounds like it should be pretty good...we'll see how those crevasses look. Good to know the gully is snow free, I heard it can get hairy when there is still snow left over. Last time we were up there the gully was bare and the ascent/descent was not bad at all (besides the obvious loose rock). We'll be heading up to camp at Winnies Slide on Friday, so maybe we'll beat the crowds. Last time up Shuksan we did it all in one day, so it will be nice to take our time and enjoy the views this go around. I didn't follow you here...can you explain? Did you take a different route down? Excellent pictures, btw! I'm excited to actually use my camera on this trip...last time we were in the clouds all day.
  8. We're looking for some route conditions for Fisher Chimneys. Anyone been up there recently? We're thinking about making a trip up there this weekend...I imagine is it pretty bare right now? Any info on the Chimneys, Hell's Highway, and the gully of the summit pyramid would be appreciated. We climbed it mid-August a couple years ago via the Sulphide, we we're looking forward to trying out the Chimneys. Also we had zero views last time because of weather so this weekend should be much better!
  9. Thanks for the report. Sounds like the road should be mostly clear by now. Will call the ranger to see current conditions. The road conditions website still list the road up to Cold Springs (NF 8040) as closed, but that was last updated in February.
  10. Any updates on Cold Springs access? Thinking about making a trip up the south route mid April. Sounds like it should be driveable, pending if the gates are open or not. I'll make a call to the ranger in a couple weeks, but just wanted to see if there has been any new developments since the last post.
  11. Rub it in, why don't you!
  12. I had a Mountain Hardwear G50 softshell jacket for the last few years and it was my go-to everyday jacket for fall thru spring. It has the conduit membrane so it always kept me dry. Anyways, I haven't worn it since the beginning of summer and I must have left it somewhere because I can't find it anywhere! Looks like I need a replacement. Hoping to find something comparable since they don't make the G50 anymore. Any suggestions?
  13. I was up on Little T yesterday and the route looks to be as direct as it gets. I'll pull some pictures off my camera tonight so you can see the route from a different perspective...should be a nice addition to mthorman's GPS data. When are you heading up? Lots of parties heading up yesterday. It was pretty cool seeing the cleaver lit up like a Christmas tree while we were crossing the lower Ingraham Glacier at 3am
  14. I heard on the radio this morning that the climber wasn't wearing a brain bucket, but I couldn't find anything online to back that up. If he wasn't, he's damn lucky. Here is the article about the teen who died near Pilchuck this weekend
  15. I just went through the application for life insurance and, IIRC, I was asked if I did any extreme sports. I said I am into mountaineering, but I wouldn't call it extreme (he brought up activities like SCUBA or sky diving). He didn't seem to make a big deal about it. I was more concerned that by me having a motorcycle endorsement that that would increase my rate. After I was approved I met with the guy again and he said I got the preferred rate and there was no mention of additional costs for anything else. I asked about the motorcycle stuff, and he basically said that as long as I'm not doing anything professionally (or semi-pro?) at the time of signing up (e.g. racing motorcycles), then there isn't any problem. The only time restriction he mentioned was that I have to wait at least two years before I commit suicide. I'll keep that in mind. So from what I understand, at least from my meeting with the agent, is that I'm free and clear to do anything I want, without having to worry about my policy not holding up. I could go and become a mountain guide without issues, since I was not one (or never was one before) at the time of signing up.
  16. Thanks for the info. This won't be until the beginning of July so I'm sure we'll have a little more road to work with.
  17. We managed to get a couple permits for St. Helens for the beginning of July. Thought it might be fun to Adams while we are down that direction. We are coming from the Seattle area, so my question is: If you were to climb St.Helens and Adams, which driving route would you take to get there and which would you climb first? I've been to Cold Spring CG, and we took the route from the north side through Randle. What I don't know about is the route between the climbs, Forest Road 90. Seems to be a well-traveled road. I'm thinking maybe do Adams first, coming down through Randle, then heading over to Helens via FS90, and then back up I5? Any advice would be appreciated! Regardless of what route we choose, it is going to be a lot of driving!
  18. I have a Columbia 3-in-1 (interchangeable) Ice Dragon jacket for sale. Size Large, color blue. I bought this jacket years ago but barely used it because it ended up being a bit too big for me. I have: -Ice Dragon Shell. Omni tech waterproof, seam sealed, water proof zippers. Removable hood, powder skirt. Like new. -Fleece vest. Like new. Bought this as an add-on for warmer weather skiing, but never used it. -Fleece full-zip jacket 1. I wore this by itself a lot more. Signs of wear, but in great shape. -Fleece full-zip jacket 2. Same as the other fleece. Signs of wear...good shape. A really nice jacket and interchangeable fleece insulating layers...I would totally keep it if it fit me better. Photo Album Looking for $150 for everything. I am located in Renton but travel up the east side every day...but I will consider shipping. Let me know if you are interested.
  19. I have a BRAND NEW Neoair Xtherm up for sale. I ordered two, one for me and one for a friend, but then he decided he didn't want it. Too late to return, so here it is! Brand new, still in the plastic. Size regular. Retails for $189+tax. Yours for $165 + Free 2-day shipping! Paypal preferred...PM me if you are interested! http://www.rei.com/product/829850/therm-a-rest-neoair-xtherm-sleeping-pad
  20. I have an extra NeoAir Xtherm that my buddy ended up not wanting. Brand new still in original packaging. Size: Regular. Missed my return window to the store so my loss is your gain. I would keep it but I already have one! http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/spo/4266912165.html Let me know if you are interested. Looking for $180 OBO. If you are interested in me shipping it, let me know and we can work something out. Thanks!
  21. Bump! Free shipping!
  22. Trip: Mt. Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier Date: 8/18/2013 Trip Report: After some car-2-car suggestions from you guys here at CC (thanks!), the two of us decided to head up Shuksan. Planned on Saturday, but the weather forecast pegged Sunday as the better day so we postponed a day. Left Seattle on Saturday and made it to the Shannon Ridge trail head at around 8p. Almost full parking lot. Partly cloudy, but soon turned clear with the moon bright in the sky. Organized some gear and were in the tent by the car at around 9p. Woke up at 2:30a and took our time getting ready. Overcast now. After some hot breakfast and coffee, we were on the trail by 3:45a. Shortly into the approach, it began to sprinkle on us. Great. The already dewy vegetation made for a soggy approach to the notch. Visibility was also low. The approach from the car up to the notch was easy, with no problems following the route. We made good time, getting onto the glacier at about 6:00a. Filtered some water and strapped on the crampons. Since the visibility was low, we relied on the GPS and following along the west side of the glacier. Wasn't too bad. A few crevasses but nothing we couldn't navigate. Still drizzly and a light wind. We went unroped the entire glacier. We made it to the base of the Summit Pyramid at around 9:00a. It was finally getting light out and the rain was letting up. Still foggy, though a couple times the fog gave us a window to the snow-free gully and the scramble up the top. Two other parties were on their way up (roped), and one party was just getting back down. We stashed our crampons and trekking poles and started the scramble. We put our harness on, just in case we needed them. Didn't anticipate it, though. Our route up the gully was basically just find the path of least resistance and avoiding being underneath the parties above. Didn't want to get in their way either. They stayed mostly to the climber's left, and we managed to stay to the right. The scramble up the gully was a blast! Holds were plentiful and solid. Not a lot of exposure; I'd rate it a class 3 (some people maybe a low class 4). We hit the summit at 10:00a. Nothing to see up there, unfortunately. After a quick bite, we made our way back down. We planned to rappel since we brought a rope. Why not? Started down-climbing and found it to be fast and easy, so we didn't stop at any of the rappel stations. The scramble down was just as fun as going up! Back on the glacier, we made our way back down. A couple of breaks in the fog gave us a view of the glacier, so we could see a more direct line down. Still some navigating through. We made it back to the car at 2:15p. 10hrs 30min car2car. Probably could have shaved an hour off if it wasn't for the low visibility and having to navigate the glacier. Still, I was happy with our time. Total mileage according to the GPS data was 15 miles round trip. Even with the crappy weather and low visibility, we had a great time! We will definitely be back when we can actually get a look at the scenery! Sorry, no pictures, but here is some GPS data: Download .gpx data! Gear Notes: We brought along a minimal glacier rack and a 30 meter glacier rope. Neither were used. The ice axes stayed on the packs all day, too. -Crampons -Helmet -Trekking Poles Approach Notes: Soggy. But no route finding issues.
  23. Great! Thanks for the beta...Should be a good time!
  24. Isn't a backcountry permit only required for camping within the nat'l park? Or is it some sort of day use wilderness permit? So many passes/permits...all I have is my NW forest pass and figured that would be good for me at the parking lot.
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