pierceadams

hey all, thanks for the encouragement. To tell you the truth, I have been questioning if we should've pushed a bit further or not. It was only 7.30 and I am curious as to what time most people coming off the JPG end up descending. That shit was slushy though, I placed a three foot picket and shoved that thing all the way in with my palm. not too encouraging. And yes JLag that was us at the Rack and Roll, green tacoma, red cab... a Christmas truck! seriously though, I need a new cab, one that is bigger and not uhh, red. Cheers, yall!

Hi all, recently (6/28-7/01) my friend Brian Gibbs and I tried to climb Jefferson, but got turned back near the top of the Whitewater Glacier route cause we are noobs. Or maybe it was because of the huge rockfall we saw, or the fact that it was getting real warm on the east side of that mountain, but if I had more experience, I might have been there earlier in cooler conditions, but, to quote a good band called Ween, "what can you do?". Regardless it was still good trip, we came all the way up from the southwest, so we got some good climbing in at Smith in the gorge and around Bend. To the two guys that told us to turn around at the trailhead, hope you liked the beers. Pabst "Light" is a new thing to me, but they are AWESOME! Ours melted out of the snow by the time we got back, but a couple were still cold. I'll post some pics and actual route info in a few days when I have time. Thanks for the beta leading up to the trip all!

good looking out for the safety of others and many thanks for using personally bought gear.

just wondering what you all use. been checking out accuweather, anything better, more along the lines of mountaineering related? Thanks, Pierce

awesome TR. Thanks for the pics, they are great beta, cause I got one week till I get up here!

I started a thread a while ago looking for some beta and got some real helpful replies. My question now is has anyone been up there recently? Did the heavy snow fall of the winter last longer than usual? And one other, I talked to a lady at the Detroit Ranger station asking if I needed a permit to camp and climb up there, she said I didn't. Is she right? thanks for the time, Pierce Adams

irrationality comes to mind. On somewhat a side note, last time I stayed at the Skull Hollow campground outside of Smith Rocks, they were counting cars and doing surveys. Anybody know the reasoning. I dig on that campground, though the bathrooms are trashed, it seemed like a good spot. Are they goin to start charging or limit numbers? just a question cause i am curious. And this same thread is on Supertopo... and I am a proud member of the AAC.

oh yeah, one other question. Technical ice tool at all? like one technical and one glacier for the bergshrund? Thanks for the input, Pierce Adams

hey thanks all, great beta. seeing as the topic went from beta to close calls to close calls with lightning, here is my bit. When I was first learning how to climb I did some tech. mountaineering courses with AAI, all three in a row. It was a great month or so when I was nineteen. Anyway, the third part I went up into the Bugaboos with Matt Anderson who was a guide with AAI. We climbed the NE Ridge of Bugaboo spire, topped out and started descending the Kain route when this storm from hell came in. We were about three raps with some down climbing down from the top, on this hand-railish ridge when it started to hail and thunder. I am on a ledge with the rope flaked out, Matt is looking for the next anchors when our ice axes start buzzing. Matt hustles back over saying he thought he was about to get it and we promptly remove all our metals and put em in a pile and sit down in the lightning position. We proceeded to get buzzed three times though the rock, once in my right knee, once in my left elbow and the third was big enough to knock my helmet into the rock and put me on my ass. REAL scary, like no delay between the lighting, the crack and the jolts. I had a real interesting time contemplating all the possibilities, you know like dying Anyway, the storm passes and we hear this rumbling and we are all like, Sh!t, what now? big rock fall beneath us, got to see the debris on the glacier after we finished descending. My scare story at least. Thanks for the sage wisdom of knowing when to back off, climb early and keep my eyes on the horizon. And fat chance about stayin home and watching the boobtube, where the heck is the fun in that?

Thanks liquor, that is the type of info I am looking for.

I was thinking the Jefferson Park Glacier route, that ridge looks awesome. It is on the north side though, right? Is that going to be too prone to rock fall in July? Also, how many days, like hike in, setup camp, get up early climb descend and pack up and leave, or stay another night. And gear, pickets a few screws, slings and stoppers? thanks again, Pierce Adams

Hi, I was thinking about trying to climb Mt Jefferson this July. Asides from climbing Baker via the Easton Glacier route on a mountaineering course with AAI, I haven't climbed a mountain like this (i.e; glaciated), but I figure it would be a good start. I was wondering if anybody agrees. I was thinking about doing one of the route in Alan Kearney's Classic Climbs book, I forget the name. It seems like a pretty moderate route, but I wondering about the conditions and about the summit pinnacle. Is it just easy rock climbing, is it sometimes plastered w/ ice? I know it was a heavy winter in Oregon, but I left in March. Any info is much appreciated. Thanks, Pierce Adams

I left my black metolious rope bag with a blue 10.5 edelwiess 60m rope in it at the smith rocks parking lot. The little stickers on the ends had been removed so they don't stick on raps. I also left in the bag a Smith Rocks Guide book and a Kleen Kanteen water bottle. The guide book has my name and number in it, so I don't hold out much hope on the return. someone thought they had a good ground score. Left it around late March? early April? pm or email any info pma1212@gmail.com