Jump to content

LukeShy

Members
  • Posts

    74
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by LukeShy

  1. Nice work on climbing Dome, it certainly is a haul in there!

     

    Here's what the schrund looks like to get on the Chickamin Glacier as of June 6th. To the left and right sides were wide open and required a big jump to cross. I heard a team went in the weekend after to climb Sinister as well and went the same way across the schrund.

    Sinister Peak - Flickr Set

    [img:left]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3938/18293459263_33dccc067d_b.jpg[/img]

  2. Trip: Mt. Goode / Storm King - NE Buttress / Standard Choss

     

    Date: 7/26/2014

     

    Trip Report:

     

    Lots of beta out there on NEB and SK. So I'll stick to the pictures and current route conditions.

    Flickr Photo Set

    Our Route (caltopo map)

     

    Hike in was uneventful 15 miles. Grizzly Creek required boots off crossing 3x times and the North Fork Bridge Creek was easily crossed at the first clearing. (other party out that day found a log to cross just upstream) Once across we climbed the slabs just right of the left-most waterfall and through the "magical alder tunnel" to the open meadows and bouldery slopes below the glacier to easily find 5,200' camp.

     

    Looking up from the NF Creek Crossing

    14748530866_b6112c3643_z.jpg

    5200' Camp Photosphere

     

    No glacier death blocks were heard falling all night so we were stoked that getting onto the glacier would be feasible.

     

    The next day we awoke at 4 AM, packed up, and headed up and left towards the 5,400' bivy. From that bivy we went straight up the slabs to the base of the glacier than did the rightward traverse below the hanging glacier quickly crossing to the snow ramp and safety.

     

    Crossing the DANGER ZONE

    14585087697_854599cff5_z.jpg

     

    We roped up and did a big 'S' route to get above the crevasses, following a bootpack from the day before (thanks!) to get to the moat. Once there we found the awesome fatty snow ramp that lead right to the base of the route. No moat shenanigans were had.

     

    Easy Moat Crossing via Snow Ramp

    14584859350_f193d716b1_z.jpg

     

    Matt and I headed out first, simuling up and towards the buttress crest. From there we swapped leads, I took over and headed us towards the class 3-4 portion. Our other team took a bit different way, trying to be more direct, it didn't work so we waited a while for them to catch up. Once they did we headed up class 3-4 terrains until the buttress steepened.

     

    Matt climbing the lower NEB

    14768400221_aa478ec0e5.jpg

     

    From there we got back on the crest (clipped an old Beckey piton!) climbed, manteled, climbed, manteled, etc. until we got close to the big bivy ledge (2 simul leads). I traversed up and right into the gully below the ledge to access it. We took a break there allowing our partners to catch up a bit.

     

    Dustin and Nips on route (taken from big bivy ledge)

    14748569766_aa7b9063e8_z.jpg

     

    From there it was another couple mid 5th simul pitches to the summit. It felt great to finally get to the top after a ton of climbing. We waited for our other team, snacked, signed the register and enjoyed the amazing weather and views.

     

    Summit Views

    14768413271_8e06a70e8b_c.jpg

     

    Mt. Goode Summit Tiny Planet and Summit Photosphere

    14793751583_c98fbe9b19_z.jpg

     

    The decent was fairly simple. 2 raps got us to the black tooth notch ledge traverse. Than 2 more down the SW couloir to infinite class 3 choss. It was nearly 8:30 PM by the time we got to great bench at 7,700'. We quickly made dinner, fed faces, and than passed out (after fighting off the rats, apparently they have a taste for human flesh) to get up early to climb Storm King.

     

    SW Couloir Descent - Views very nice! Choss not so much...

    14791463013_94b32ba822.jpg

     

    Sunset Pano (Camp was down at the heather bench)

    14585132787_311060e768_z.jpg

     

    We woke up early and were out by 5:45am heading towards SK along the 7400' traverse. The snow hardened up so we put on 'pons and cruised to the base. We climbed the far right gully to get to the north side and than began the exposed traverse to get to the final scramble.

     

    Storm King-landia Basin

    14584971398_748e9551eb.jpg

     

    SK Ledge Traverse - we set up a fixed line for the actual 'duck down' move

    14584966859_fbf9530c4a.jpg

     

    Dustin - Maximum Stoke

    14791491123_ee8f446332.jpg

     

    Storm King Tiny Planet and Photosphere

    14587170110_9ba8d35931.jpg

     

    One rap, exposed traverse, down climbed the gully, and the simple backtrack along the ~7400' traverse got us to the base of Goode. WE than headed down the meadows below to find the climbers trail on the right side of the creek. It was 1 PM when we hit the trail, maximum heat, so we began our slog out. It was warm and uneventful until we were almost back to N Fork Camp where we found 2 bears feeding their faces full of blueberries giving 0 craps about us no matter how much noise we made. They finally wondered off the trail and we quickly moved on and hiked to the junction at N Fork Trail where we'd stashed trail shoes. Sadly my bag hanging in a tree was stolen/taken/eaten (WTF!), but Matt's shoes were OK so after a little break we hiked the remaining 10 miles out getting to the TH at 9:30 PM.

     

    Bear feeding face

    14585153847_99500509cf.jpg

     

    Nipples is tired of hiking

    14587229998_55400fa93a.jpg

     

    Amazing trip climbing a classic route (and a choss pile) with some great friends. It was an awesome way to spend my birthday weekend. :tup:

     

    Gear Notes:

    Alpine Rack

    60m rope - worth it for raps (we shortened to 35m to simul)

    rock shoes not required - mountaineering boots only for few intermittent 5th class moves.

     

    Approach Notes:

    Long hike in via Bridge Creek TH, 4 creek crossings, find the "magic alder tunnel", bivy sites at 5200' or 5400'.

     

    Long hike out via Park Creek Trail to Bridge Creek TH, 18+ mile slog on good trail.

  3. Thanks you for the work on this, its great to see all the forecast in one place to see where to chase the sun!

     

    For those looking for an immediate mobile solution to look at NOAA forecasts try Unofficial NOAA for Android.

    It pulls the daily forecast, hourly data, discussion, and radar (not the best, but it works) into a fairly easy interface.

    You can save any location you select on the map so you can pick anywhere for a localized forecast.

     

    Demo video from the Google Play page:

    [video:youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH1ZNIQGIr4

     

    I'm unsure what apps are available for iPhone, I'm sure there's got to be a similar app.

  4. Trip: The Tooth - South Face

     

    Date: 2/10/2013

     

    Trip Report:

    After getting ourselves in prime climbing condition on Saturday (Long a$$ Rock Mtn. Ski tour for myself and partying at Alpental for my partner) we set off for Pineapple Pass around 8am.

    The cat track/trail was nice solid hard pack, which made for some fast travel to Source Lake. The early morning bluebird sky and views of peaks around were a welcome sight as we were hoping some of the route would be melted out to climb.

     

    8471844657_42a94d5a03_b.jpg

    Source Lake

     

    The snow got soft beyond the lake so we put on the slow-shoes from there and headed up, trying to stay on old ski/board tracks for extra flotation. We made the upper basin in no time and followed the steep boot pack up the gully just right of Pineapple Pass. Thanks to whoever chopped the cornice back at the top.

     

    8472941174_1c25c34bcb_b.jpg

    8472945474_6c09b41bf7_b.jpg

    heading up to the notch

     

    From there we geared up and traversed over to the start of the route, which was looking in good shape.

     

    8471856257_4817a6b3de_b.jpg

    leading first pitch

     

    My partner lead out on the first pitch, working his magic to find the holds buried under the snow. Since neither of us had climbed Das Tooth prior, He ended up climbing past the dead tree stretching the standard P1 and P2 into a perfect 60m go.

     

    8472949834_16af20a034_b.jpg

    Climbing up to my partner (the dead tree on the right)

     

    I quickly followed behind, realized that some moves were a bit more spicy in the nice snowy/icy/wet conditions, a fine lead from my partner!

     

    I lead the next pitch. Once again combo-ing the standard P3 and P4 into a 60m mixed snow and rock climb to the summit. There were 2 snow patches, one fun exposed snow traverse and plenty of trees and fixed gear to the top. (tragically no booty was acquired.) I used my ice tool a few times, but was mostly nice to have for the snow traverse.

     

    8471859473_b4b2748172_b.jpg

    My lead - snow, rock, snow, fixed gear, than rock

    8472965700_98f0eaf364_b.jpg

    first snow bit

     

    We were unsure of the true summits condition so I belayed out my partner to the top, better safe than sorry.

     

    8471872429_48d16d2857_b.jpg

    Summit Stoke

     

    We swapped places, I tagged the summit than we began our decent.

     

    8471873591_e8d8b6cf4a_b.jpg

    More Stoke

     

    Getting down consisted of “find an exposed tree and dig to the bottom cause you know there’s a sling and at least 3 rap rings on it”. We ended up doing 5 raps, simply because we were uncertain of where all the standard stations were located. No new trees were slinged or rap rings added.

     

    8471873779_5e8e25dbc5_b1.jpg

     

    Hike out was uneventful, just wish I’d had my skis, there was still plenty of nice pow to ski.

    It was a great winter climb, can’t wait for the next one!

     

    8472969766_66d62bf305_b.jpg

    Clouds rolling in from the West

     

    Flickr Photo Set

     

    Gear Notes:

    Tools and a small alpine rack. Rap rings unnecessary.

     

    Approach Notes:

    Means of flotation is nice.

  5. Trip: Inspiration Peak - East Ridge

     

    Date: 8/18/2012

     

    Trip Report:

    Short Version: We climbed the East Ridge of Inspiration Peak in 18 hours camp to camp. Starting off with a simul-climb from the glacier to the ridge, then we pitched out the rest of the climb. We brought one pack per team with the follower carrying the heavy loads/pack hauling on harder pitches. Descent was via the west ridge in 3 double rope rappels, followed by 4 more down the south face.

     

    Detailed Version: This was Brandon and Cody’s BOEALPS ICC grad climb, where they were responsible for all of the logistics and planning for the climb. Lindsey and I were the instructors that they ‘convinced’ to come along to the magical Picket Range.

     

    We started out Friday morning from the very nice trail head just before the Upper Goodell Creek group campsite. The trail is in good shape and the creek crossings mere boulder hopping this late in the season. We arrived at the turn off 4 miles in and found the appropriate way to head uphill. Cody had some issues figuring it out but he eventually got it. He claims it was the heat that got him confused…

    01_cody_points.jpg

     

    Now for the uphill super awesome fun climb! Up, up, up, and more up we went and luckily it wasn’t too hot in the forest as most of the climb is in the shade. Multiple breaks helped cool us down too. We broke out of the main steep part at about 4800’ and once at the main creek crossing (2nd one you’ll pass) we found, after a bit of searching, that the trail goes up the creek bed for a while. Don’t follow the trails directly across the creek, just follow the cairns up and the trail will appear on the left side of the creek.

     

    02_approach_pano.jpg

    Approach views

     

    We continued on the trail as it continued up and headed for the 6245’ saddle. Once we arrived we saw the north side was a steep snow slope that surprisingly required crampons to get down.

     

    03_snow.jpg

    Steep snow to camp

    00_s_pickets_pano.jpg

    View from camp

     

    We arrived at camp at 3:30 PM, set up or tents, chilled out/napped, than ate some well deserved dinner. As we scouted the approach and glacier route and discussed what our plan was for the morning we were treated to an amazing sunset over the Pickets. 8:45 PM bed time for the big day ahead of us.

     

    04_sunset.jpg05_sunset.jpg

     

    3:30 AM came too early but we were all amped to go and rolled out of camp by 4:20 AM. We made our way down the broad ledges that took us to the outlet gully of the unnamed snow covered lake at ~5400’. We crossed over and worked our way up the slabs/snow to the Terror Glacier.

    06_slabs.jpg

    slabs

     

    We’d picked a conservative line out the day before, hoping for a quicker line to appear once we got closer. Luckily we found one a solid ramp leading up towards the peak.

     

    07_glacier_approach.jpg

    terror glacier approach

     

    Once we got below the south face we could see the snow moats were huge, but there was a nice ramp that lead down to the start of the route. We picked the right of two green/dirty ramps to start some hot simul-climb action.

     

    09_route_start.jpg

    start of the route

    08_classy_moat.jpg

    workin' the moat like a BOSS!

     

    P0: (low 5th + short 5.7 moves) Brandon lead out and we simuled a similar route to what is shown in this picture from Steph Abegg's TR. There was little pro on the start and some loose stuff to contend with. Once we got higher, the route got a bit harder; unfortunately the rock quality stayed the same – loose. Careful climbing is advised for the whole way up. We kept climbing up the ridge left of the left most notch to the base of the 5.8 lieback pitch. I had the pack on following Brandon and with the boots, axes, water it was a bit more awkward. Cody and Lindsey did about the same route, just left our our line to avoid any rockfall.

     

    P1: (5.8, 140’) I took this pitch and it was really fun! (Not awkward IMO) There were lots of great spots for gear, hand jams, and rest spots. The lieback flake part is easy if you’re tall – I stemmed/humped my way up it with style and grace up to the base of the steep wall where P2 starts. I was glad to not have the pack on for this pitch.

     

    P2: (5.9, 110’) Money Pitch time! Brandon chose the right hand crack system and styled up to the top. A few big cams and a few delicate moves got him up in no time. There were a few loose blocks in the crack to contend with, just be ready for them. Cody took the left crack and confirmed its 5.9+/5.10 rating. He got some extra stoke mid pitch from the climbing teams cheering us on from the summit of West Mac, very cool!

     

    10_crux.jpg

    Brandon gettin' after it

     

    P3: (5.6, 100’) I lead out on this pitch which basically went up to the ridge crest from the belay and to some nice belay platforms in the shade, just below the false (east) summit.

     

    11_upper_route.jpg

     

    P4: (5.7, 70’) Brandon lead this airy traverse around on the south side of the false summit and could have been extended out further. The more you go the more rope drag you probably get. Cody and Lindsey chose to go around on the north side and said it was similar in grade and they made their belay at a similar spot.

     

    P5: (low 5th traverse, 200’) I lead out and walked down a ramp on the north side of the ride. After which I traversed along until close to the final summit. We simul-climbed for about 20’ until I found a good boulder to anchor myself to and then belay Brandon in.

     

    P6: (low 5th, 100’) Summit Time! I gave Brandon the final pitch (could have easily simuled to the top) and he lead out to the summit. Got some photos than I came up and headed over to the first rappel station about 50’ west of the true summit.

    11_summit.jpg

    Lindsey on the summit

     

    00_summit_pano.jpg

    Summit Views

     

    Descent: Steph Abegg's decent photo shows it best. We did 3 double rope rappels down to the west ridge. There is one shorter rappel station you can see from the summit, don’t use it, you can rappel to the next one down. From the end of the third full double rope rappel we found the start of the south face raps. The first one is nearly a free rappel and has got a bit of pucker factor to get going. From it, you can see the next rap station, rappelers right and is easy to get to. The third anchor is hidden from sight, but was easy to find. This is where we got messed up. Brandon went to rappelers left from the third rap anchor and found the next station but realized that there was a massive snow moat that was probably impassable. So Lindsey went next, and traversed rappelers right a bit more and found another anchor more towards the start of the south face route, it was a short rap down to it. She could even see a nice snow bridge to cross back onto the glacier, ding! Now we had to get Brandon, who was down at the other rap station back to where the three of us were. Luckily he wanted a bonus pitch to climb in boots and he still had the end of the rope so we belayed him up to us. The final rappel brought us to the big snow bridge and in no time we were headed back down the glacier.

     

    It was 7:45 PM when we started down, which meant we didn’t get back down to the slabs till about dark, this took some time to navigate, but we figured it out. By the time we crossed the outlet gully, found the snow ramps, and headed back to camp it was 10:30 PM. Stoke was still high from such an amazing climb, so we ate dinner and Cody busted out a huge tube of cookie dough (win!) and we proceeded to feed our faces as we watched some distant flashes of lightning north of the pickets as we recalled the days adventure.

     

    We awoke the next day and headed out of camp at 9:30 AM, but before we left we took some group photos and Cody just had to get in a quick snow boulder session.

     

    12_post_climb_stoke.jpg

    Climb Stoke

     

    Snow Bouldering Action!

    snow_boulder_1.jpgsnow_boulder_2.jpgsnow_boulder_3.jpgsnow_boulder_4.jpg

     

    Hike out was uneventful, got back to the car at 3:00 PM, and were cooling off in Goodell Creek by 3:30 PM, beer in hand. It was an amazing climb, with some awesome climbing partners!

     

    13_hike_out.jpg

     

    00_6245_notch_pano.jpg

     

    Fri:

    7:00 Marblemount for permits

    8:30 leaving TH

    3:30 got to camp

    4:30 nap

    6:30 dinner

    8:45 bed

     

    Sat:

    3:30 wake up

    4:20 moving

    ~8:30 base of route

    9:00 started climbing

    3:00 topped out

    3:30 all summited

    4:00 begin rappels

    7:30 end raps

    8:00 back on a rope, glacier time

    10:20 camp

     

    Sun:

    9:30 leave camp

    3:00 cars

    3:30 drunk cooling off in Goodell Creek

     

    Flickr Set Slideshow

     

    Gear Notes:

    Rack to #3 we brought doubles of #1 and #2, with a surprise 3rd #2 that we accidentally brought too. Lots of double slings as most pitches aren't vertical.

     

    Approach Notes:

    New parking area and a proper TH! The trail is in good shape and easy to follow to the notch. We had to use crampons to down-climb from the 6245' notch to camp. Lots of water flowing at camp from the snow patch above.

  6. I had though I lost my 70-200 lens the day before and had backtracked searching everywhere. Upon returning to the car a note was on my windshield. Someone from the party of the injured climber (I believe) also named Luke had found my lens on my hitch and took it to the ranger station. A big thank you for doing that, I was a little distraught at losing a $700 lens on that trip. Positive Karma hopefully comes your way in future climbs.

     

    Yep that was me. I saw it on the hitch of your car in the parking lot Saturday morning, 5am. After realizing what it was I put it in a plastic bag to protect it and set it on the roof of your car hoping you would see it (and no one would steal it). After we got back Sunday afternoon it was still there and it was looking like lots of rain so I wrote the note and took it with me to the ranger station. Glad you got it back!

     

    Amazing video, I wish I had stayed up to take some photos myself that night.

  7. I doubt a carry would break a collarbone further. It was probably already fully broken and it just became displaced.
    You're probably right that it didn't break, but just shifted. I'm no doctor so I'll take your word on that one :)

     

    Thanks for the advice I will be sure to forward it on so she's getting the proper treatment.

     

  8. Good questions about the "spot" beacon I talked about. I'm not aware of what the actual brand name/model it was because it wasn't owned by anyone in my group. There were some other climbers who offered to send out the message on his literally brand new beacon that would connect via Bluetooth to his phone. Those are the only details of the device I know because he had his phone in camp and I stayed up with the injured.

     

    I'm speculating that its probably this model or something similar:

    SPOT connect satellite communicator

    or this one too

    Delorme Inreach 2 way satellite communicator for Apple iOS and Android

  9. I'm really glad that both of our accidents ended in successful rescues. I think that proper training really contributed to both of these being worse than they could have been.

     

    Thanks for the analysis and lessons learned, good to keep in mind while climbing.

×
×
  • Create New...