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belcourt

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About belcourt

  • Rank
    stranger
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

Converted

  • Occupation
    climbing category director at black diamond
  1. Fake Petzl Reproductions, beware

    I won't get into debating the philosophy behind the BD factory in China but I would like to bust a few myths. WC biners are made in Taiwan as well as Metolius biners. Just check the hangtags when you are in the store. Nothing is forever, and companies do change their sourcing to be more competitive (most don't mention it). This does not mean a change in product quality. Product quality is a function of training, systems, and testing; not ethnic origins. So you get out what you put in regardless of location. You don't have to make gear in China to get ripped-off in China; just ask the Swiss watch company Rolex. There are plenty of $20.00 "Rolex" copies available on the streets of Hong Kong and Rolex does not make watches in China. The outdoor industry is big business these days, and when there is money to be made making copies, there will be people doing it. Just come to the OR show and watch how many people with cameras (from foreign companies you have never heard of) quietly taking pictures of all the new product (mostly packs and clothing). Many times the copies will hit the market before the real thing is even delivered. The work rescue biz is far bigger than the climbing biz so it is no surprise that Petzl (the biggest player) got copied first. It also will be impossible to stop and hard to police so please buy whatever it is from a reputable dealer. I am sure our turn to get ripped-off will come, and I hope the fact that we are well connected in China these days and have our own facility will make it easier to find the rat and put a stop to it. Bill
  2. Adjusting Toe Bails (BD Sabretooth SS)

    No hammer is required to move the bails to the second set of holes. To move the bails; line up the flats in the end of the bail wires with the long dimension of the holes (the holes are oval). Do this by rotating the bail towards the rear of the crampon. I usually just place the crampon on its side, step on the sides of the frontpoints with one foot, and the side of rears with the other. I use the ankle strap around the front bail where it enters the crampon to make it easy to pull on, or you could use a sling; line up the flats in the oval holes and pull. The bail should come right out. Cheers, Bill
  3. Cutting or reshaping AerMet steel?

    Hi Jon, Send me the picks and I will get the anvils removed for you. Ship them to me at BD - 2084 east 3900 south, SLC UT 84124. Cheers, Bill Belcourt
  4. The stainless myth?

    Guys, You're both right to a certain extent. I am not going to get into what type of stainless BD uses because it took a long time to figure out. There are differences that add up to more than just corrosion resistance but it was not obvious from just looking at the numbers (as they are very close). You never truly understand a material until you make the product you want to make out of it, and start testing it. Sometimes you get lucky and get performance beyond expectations, and then spend the rest of your time trying to figure out why it happened. Turns out there are many factors that contribute to wear. Here is a small clue but I'm saying no more.....http://www.alloysteel.net/english/techlib_factors.asp Someone please fix that link for me.....thanks Bill
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