Doug Shepherd

Usually the thumb hook, but I'll do the neck/shoulder thing when it isn't very overhung.

Nice job John! I'll be up in Hyalite in a couple weeks and will check out Home Field Advantage!

Interesting stuff! All I have to add is that I climbed on Petzl tools until this year when I switched to the new Cobras. In my opinion, the BD Laser pick is horrible. Absolutely horrible. I know quite a few other sponsored and non-sponsored climbers who feel the same way. My picks came with NO bevel on the teeth and stuck in the ice like crazy. After retooling the pick with a file so that is has a bevel and fixing some other issues, I feel comfortable climbing hard climbs with the pick. I definitely had to torque much more on the stock Laser picks than the Petzl Cascade picks to get them out of the ice, perhaps this difference contributes to more broken BD picks? Also, just a quick note on the current stock picks on new BD tools, they do break. I know a couple climbers who have broken them already.

What lengths of screws do you have in the turbos? I hear you about overdriving. I'm moving from Quarks to new Cobras and the swing weight is extremely different. The BD picks also have a backwards facing tooth right behind the tip, which I think is what is causing me so many problems. I was cursing myself for leaving my Quarks the first day out with the Cobras when I flamed out just from pumping my damn tools to get them out. It's all good though, as it just motivates me to get out more since I bought new tools!

Hunh. My experience is the exact opposite with screws. The Grivel's (both 360 and Helix) crank pretty fast but just don't start as easily as the new BD's. Whatever works for ya! I watched a guy last weekend crank a 5+ in Cody on the same tools as me without leashes and he looked super smooth. I can only hope to get that comfortable without my leashes eventually. I've already ditched them for alpine climbing and just take some homemade umbilicals. I also just changed tools and I'm having a hell of a time cleaning the picks (they've got a date with the file), so that also contributes to my hesitation.

Great post! Awesome to see an experienced climber's perspective on the new gear. The only points I would add are that the new Black Diamond screws start much faster than the Grivel 360 screws. Both me and my partners have used the Grivel and new BD screws in Colorado, Wyoming, Canada, Alaska, and South America and found the new BD's consistently start faster and place easier. I am also still climbing with my leashes on hard (5/6) ice because I've found I can lead the pitches faster with my leashes on than without them. Maybe I'll eventually move over, but I consistently lead faster than my partners who climb leashless. For me, speed=safety. It's awesome that you're getting back out! Enjoy it!