unklehuck

Make that 6 routes between M4 and M7+

There are now 6 routes on SGs outside wall between M4 and M7+

Word on the street corner has it that 2 drytooling routes went up tonight on the outdoor wall at Stoney G's. More to come in the near future.

Climbed Outer Space on Thursday 16 July. Was dive-bombed by a VERY angry falcon while belying my second up to Library Ledge. It made 5 or 6 screeching, talon baring passes. I managed to fend it off by giving it the finger and hurling offensive language (and hand fulls of bird poop) at it. My second was rather grateful I was belaying in guide mode.....

I climb on the Mammut 8.9mm mentioned earlier, and use both a reverso and an atc-guide with no problems. It did feel a bit sketch at first (new rope syndrome?), particularly in cold and wet alpine conditions, but I got used to it pretty quickly, and experience no problems controlling belays, lowering or rappelling. I haven't tried my reversino on that "fat" as I have a tough time getting 8.2mm doubles through it, and I'm pretty sure it won't take a large rope as per specs (7.5-8.2mm).

My buddy needs a ride to Leavenworth/Icicle Creek tonight (Friday) or early tomorrow. Will cough up for gas. Call Lucas at 415 690 0640.

It's a chalk bag. Get over it.

Stone Gardens in Ballard has some copies in stock...$20 or so...sheaper if you get a member to buy it for you

Any pics of JoBurg?

Well, they're finally gone. Went out to the coulee Friday morning, arriving just in time to see a nice man dragging the porta-johns away on a trailer-never to return. He cited inability to get anyone to maintain them after hypodermic needles started appering enmass as one of the main reasons for their removal. Boy are those camp grounds gonna be nasty after Sasquatch!

Right on. Thanks. I was getting the feeling from all the pics I've seen that the ice up there doesn't see the light o' day very often.

thanks. was have a hard time getting my bearings in the WA Ice guide.

sorry...trying to figure out how to attach this damn thing

found a shot that has the area, with approximate route of ascint in red. looks like the most of the ice on the first pitch and last pitch is burried. the rock bad about 3/4 of the way up is where the 3rd pitch is located, though a good portion of it seems to be under snow as well.

no such luck. forgot the camera, along with my socks (!!)

Trip: Alpental - Bryant Date: 1/24/2009 Trip Report: Dirty Dave, Professor Rupp and myself joined the hordes converging on Alpental early Saturday morning, planning on hitting the South Face of the Mighty Tooth, or anything in that area that seemed interesting. We stopped at the ice at the base of Bryant(?) where the trails to Chair and Great Scott Bowl diverge. Figured we'd give it a shot and see where it went. 1st pitch: WI3, M-easy. The base was dripping down the obvious line up th center, but the edges were solid enough and took screws well. Topped the ice out after 50ish feet, tooled through some low angle snow covered rock, taking advantage of some frozen earth for dirt sticks, past 2 sets of rap-tat, traversed right a few feet at the base of a small cliff band, downclimbed some rock, upclimbed some solid snow and set up belay in fat ice at the base of a smear. 2nd pitch: WI2. A short pitch, 40', up a well protected smear, with smooth rock walls on either side, to a small snow bowl. Anchored on a good size tree not far above the ice, climbers right. Slogged up a few hundred feet of steepish, solid snow to the base of the next small band of rock. Lots of ice options here. Some easier ice to climbers right, 2+/3-, or... 3rd pitch: WI4. Another short bit of ice, around 40', forming in a left facing corner. Ice was thicker in the corner, getting thinner as ;you move left. There were also 2 thin, unprotectable smears to climbers left on the same rock band. Flow was probably 6 feet wide or so fairly steep, 80+ degrees,and nearly featureless. Some good placement rest options were available backstepping on the rock that forms the corner. Pulled over the top of the flow into a snow field. Ran out a good deal of rope to reach a large ice blob to set up belay. 4th pitch: WI1+. Lots of small, low angle ice steps, with plenty of discontinuous ice steps on the steeper cliffs to climbers left. We headed straight over a rambling low angle continuous flow to the base of a steep, loose, overgrown snow gully, nearing 80 degrees at the top. Climbed 60' of funky gulley, grovelling, hooking turf, with a final backhand into a good size tree to pull out of the gully. Belayed followers off 2 small trees. This brough us out with Bryant looming over us. We hiked toward Bryant and eventually descended into the Great Scott Bowl. Dose anyone know anything about this climb? Seems like a pretty obvious line, but I didn't see any evidence of the ice being climbed beyond the first pitch. Though not a whole lotta ice for the length of the climb, it was a pretty sweet day out, with the ice on pitches 2 and 3 fun and in great shape. Gear Notes: 2 heavy ass 60m ropes Screws...mostly stubbies and 13's, though the 1st pitch, as well as the bases of pitches 2 and 3, took 22's. We had a small rock rack, but only used a medium sized nut to protect near the base of the cliff band at the top of pitch 1, but had to pound it in with my tool. Lots of flaring crack and thin seams. Probably not worth taking any rock pro other than some thin pins. Approach Notes: Follw the boot track and look for the big hunk of ice near where the trail to Chair/Great Scott Bowl splits

Took a shot at the NE slab of The Might Tooth on Saturday...about 1/4" of ice under 3" or so a slightly dense snow. Bailed after about 15' of sketch.

pm'd you

Recently made plans to catch some early season ice/mixed climbing in Canmore over Thanksgiving, but my ride/partner is now unable to go. I'm pretty fired up to get up there and swing tools. Anyone interested? Was hoping to get on Coire Dubh Integrale, and maybe find some other long, moderate mixed or pure ice routes to attempt. This is my second season on ice and am comfortable leading WI3, but can/will follow (hopefully) anything sane you can put up. Will split gas, of course, and buy you some beers. Was planning on camping to keep costs down. Eric

Thanks. Still getting tuned into to the whole elevation require for freezing thing...coming from way upstate NY where elevation isn't much of a factor..winter is balls cold wherever you are!

Does Gorge Creek Falls form with any regularity? Has anyone climbed this thing? Not really sure what winter is like at Newhalem, but it looks like it would be a pretty sweet line.

thanks

Thanks so much...just checked his site, looks like a good resource. Eric

thanks for the intel Eric