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cemmes

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About cemmes

  • Birthday 11/29/1986

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  • Occupation
    student
  • Location
    Eugene, OR

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  1. I was up about a month ago on the West Rib. We got to the summit pinnacle late in the day and it was still looking fairly iced up on the north side and mostly clear on the west. It's probably all clear now. As for the traverse to the red saddle, we decided to descend the southwest ridge, so we made the traverse. It was definitely icy in parts but was warming up significantly as we were on it. It was also pretty steep in parts. All and all it was pretty doable though, we just brought some snow pickets (3 i think) and used our axes as well for anchors and roped up. Worked fine and I felt very comfortable. Hope that helps.
  2. yeah man, that guy was super sketchy. Stolen for sure.
  3. I was up on it about a week ago. The traverse was completely melted out when I was up and so was the bowling alley. Almost no rock fall at the time too. I felt pretty solid the whole way up. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Don't know about the recent snow.
  4. Man, you probably missed out on the best part of the climb, the meat sticks and chicken sticks are a must at harbicks. mmmmmmmmm. Fun scramble though, what else do you have planned for the summer budday?
  5. How does that elevation compare to Flagstone? Tried to get up there and see if the road is clear yet last monday and was only able to make it 10 miles up quartz creek road.
  6. I've never been down there and was wondering if its the kind of area the gets any snow and if it is climbable this time of year. Anybody know what elevation it is at? Anybody been there recently?
  7. I guess what most people are complaining about this device is that it doesn't seem to have any advantages, just disadvantages. It can ONLY take a single rope, whereas with the normal ATC you have the OPTION of two or one. Even more so, the one advantage you would think would come with a device that is trying to be simplistic, being lighter, isn't the case. I'm honestly curious, coming from someone who has used it, in what situations would this device have advantages over another standard belay/rappel device with two slots? What situations do you choose to use this instead of another? It just seems to me that why not just use the double slotted device because it gives you more options if needed.
  8. Does anybody have any experience resoling their chacos. I don't like any of the soles chaco is currently using. I currently have the viabram hiking soles on my chacos and find them just too damn heavy. I was looking at getting some of the dot rubber that La Sportiva uses on their Cirque Pros. I was curious of anybody has done this before and knows about some good rubber and where to get it. Thanks.
  9. I haven't skied the judd but i did climb the very obvious coulior a few years back. If i remember correctly, we drove just passed where the train bridge goes over the road (20 miles?) from oakridge, crossed the river and parked after the road winds around the hill to allow us to get as close to the coulior as possible. We hiked up the river drainage and then up to coulior. When we did it, it was fairly icy and we chose to rope up as there was some pretty steep sections. We used pickets and that was it. Ended up having to rappel down a 30ish ft. cliff on the way down taking the more direct way instead of the way we came up. I believe in the right conditions it would definitely be doable and would definitely require some bushwacking but probably well worth it. If you have any other questions, let me know. Get after it! I just realized, is that you Ira? this is Craig...
  10. http://www.sierratradingpost.com/Product.aspx?baseno=1525U&cdf=TopSeller These are on sale. I'm looking to get some biners for my cams and complete my rack. What do you think. Pros and cons?
  11. wow, great pics.
  12. I'm looking at getting a solo device and was wondering what people use, likes and dislikes and any other information people have on them. It will be used mostly for top roping but would also like a device i could use for solo aiding and solo leading as I would like to start getting into some of that. I tried to find old threads about this but was unsuccessful. If this is redundant, just point me in the direction to find information. Thanks. Craig
  13. Looking at heading up to Thielsen this weekend and was wondering if anyone has been up there lately and know what I should expect for conditions. Mostly looking for some good skiing but will probably plan on summiting the pinnacle. It's been awhile since I've been up there and was wondering what type of gear i should bring. Would i be fine with just some nuts for pro? what do ya think?
  14. where is this beacon place?
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