ropegoat
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Posts posted by ropegoat
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NRS, check your PMs
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Definitely have no boat, definitely have money to chip in for gas, and would be happy to get dirty taking apart your carb. I'm also in PDX. Just got back from some pitiful deep water solo/"hard and cold" fest in the Arizona canyon country. This would be awesome.
Let me know how I can help.
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If anyone in the PNW area is looking for a partner for any of the above races, I'd love to get into a few this summer. I don't have a boat, but have climbing/running/biking/moutaineering gear.
I'm new to the area, very fit, and have some decent backcountry experience behind me. Also very comfortable with topo map and compass navigation.
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I have a gently used 70cm BD Raven pro (the shiny one) that is a little too long for my liking. I've used it climbing Hood (twice) and in Alaska for a few weeks last summer. I bought it in 2005 for a trip that didn't happen and it is in very good shape. Asking $70 obo. Can send photos tonight if you like. I am in Portland, and happy to ship. Feel free to email or call:
skander dot spies at gmail dot com
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my only critique is that the second might have trouble accessing their rope and building the rescue setup as quickly:
Here's my perspective (I have performed two and three person crack rescue using one rope exclusively, I've never had a second rope at my disposal). I'm still learning, so this is by no means gospel.
1) i don't like having a full rope length kiwi coiled over my shoulder
2) in a crack rescue situation, digging another rope out of your backpack might be awkward.
3) if the second is tied into the end, the loaded strand must be attached to the secondary rope inorder to setup the Z-pulley. this seems like a pain (you'd be tying the secondary rope onto the loaded strand, probably with a friction knot- this seems sketchy to me), and to echo a previous comment, would add elongation to the system. this also adds another failure point to the system.
4) if the techincal rock/ice pitches warrant twin/half rope style then you are carrying two ropes anyway- if you are going to single rope the techincal pitches, you could carry a lighter 6-7mm static line for hauling, rescue, and rappel rather than a full weight 8-9mm dynamic line.
I thoroughly agree though- it's best to dig in and let your leader prussik their way out.
These are simply thoughts, I don't know any more than anyone else (and probably know less than most). This is a great discussion though, thanks to everyone!
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just sent you an email. can offer other folks a ride down from portland in return for splitting gas.
Brad- I also recently moved to portland and am looking for alpine partners. maybe we can meet up for some other climbs this season too
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Does any one know what's up with:
http://www.nwac.us/forecasts.htm
Not that it seems to make any sense to check the weather before heading out to climb (cause it'll change by the time you get out of your car), but I found them useful this winter for the general picture. I realize their avalanche service only makes sense during the winter, but it seems like they aren't updating their weather forecasts either...
any other recommended mountain weather sites?
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hey all,
I did actually search for a post like this, but seems no one goes expedition style down here any more. I have 10 days over the week before memorial day. I was hoping to get deep in the North Cascades- but am not sure what conditions would be like. Can anyone suggest a good linkup or resources- maybe two or three mountains that might lend themselves to a link up? Also any account of experience during this part of the season would be much appreciated. Partner and I are both strong on steep snow, glacier travel, and technical rock, not strong in ice climbing. I'm new to the PNW, but we both have significant experience elsewhere.
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I spent a month Backpacking the Healy area (east of Denali park) with NOLS last summer. Conditions were awesome, though we were still a couple hundred miles south of the Brooks Range. The NOLS base in Palmer may be willing to help you out, they've got a killer library of maps and guidebooks, plus tons of experienced locals. You might just see what they say. You can grab the office info through www.nols.edu
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you guys looking to use ski gear, or walking the whole way? either way, I'd be down. will pm with experience
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Hey all,
I don't know if anyone is reading this post any more, but I recently moved to PDX and am definitely interested in getting into the alpine game as often as possible. I train at PRG M,W,F usually, but would rather be mountaineering. Did a NOLS mtneering course in Alaska this summer, have all the basic gear + snow, rock, and some ice pro, good tent, ropes and other stuff. Don't have a ton of experience but feel good about my judgement and don't mind getting humbled by skilled partners. This season (for lack of dollars) I will be snowshoeing it, but am happy to rent AT skiis and figure it out.
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is anyone up for watching the sunrise from the top of Black Butte?
Weather is supposed to be good. Basically, I was planning to go drinking tonight, but just because I am me, an utterly absurd thought hit me:
Eat dinner in Portland, leave for Black Butte sometime after dinner, grab a few hours sleep at the trail head, start hiking around 2 or 3. Watch the first sunrise of 2008 from the top of Black Butte (or someother northern ORE mountainous feature that isn't too hard or technical, just bc I don't really want to think too hard)?
http://physics.uoregon.edu/~belitz/db_virtual/db_climbing/peaks/black_butte.html seems to suggest this is reasonable.
I must be nuts. PM with phone # if interested
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Hey all,
I'm new to town and would love to find a training partner for some trail running/hard training. I rock climb regularly at PRG, but need to do more aerobic stuff, and training with a partner really helps me push(either running or rock). I'm trying to be in shape for alpine climbing this spring. I love running, esp on trail- on road I usually run in the 6:30-7:30min/mile range, on trail probably more like 8:00min/mile. I'd really like to find a partner for a long hard run (10-15mi?) on Sunday, we could even head up to the gorge or something.
PM me with an email or phone #
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I'm looking for a partner leaving out of portland for the weekend before Christmas. Leaving Friday night, returning Sunday night/Monday early AM. Open minded about destination, let me know what you feel like/what's in season.
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I've flown out of Portland, Chicago, San Diego, and St Louis with a full trad rack in my carry on- but I did put the nuts tools in my checked bag. Generally I try to get there early, and I pull all the gear out, put it in the plastic trays, and alert the staff to what it is before it goes through the machine. Be a courteous and understanding as possible, but with the expectation that they will let you through. Usually at least someone on the TSA staff has seen a climber or some climbing gear somewhere. I even had another traveller come to bat for me (in St. Louis) to help explain my case. Just be open and honest, and nice.
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ok ok,
In the future I'll expect a more enthusiastic response from my PDX community (j/k) maybe folks are still scared of the rain and haven't built up the resolve to stop sitting inside getting fatter rather than risking a low quality, sopping wet, loose snow crappy alpine climb...
I've made other plans
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I'm looking to get out of town, but really only have Sunday. Anyone up for a quick trip down to see what Jefferson looks like, or perhaps nearby Washington mtns- I have no agenda? Propose to leave very early AM Sunday, return very late PM Sunday- I have car but would love to split gas and share a climb with folks (could fit four in my car easy).
Thanks
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I'm in no position to head to Alaska (just spent 2.5 months there with NOLS), but would love to join up for any conditioning/training hikes in the gorge this winter. I feel good knowing there are other people crazy enough to think that walking around in the rain for several hours with a heavy pack on is fun.
Let me know if you want to share a ride/someone to train with.
Skander
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Dan,
I may be up for something, I'm new to the PDX area, where are you?
I'm a recent NOLS mountaineering grad, eager to apprentice in the PNW, but don't have the ski thing together. Very adept at snowshoes though. Give a call if you are game- I have gear and car.
best
Skander
847-644-5006
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These seem great for tamer conditions, have you skied them in less ideal snowpack? The review looked spotless, am curious about the real off-piste performance. Also, do you happen to be in the Portland area? I am seriously interested.
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this TR decidedly inspires me to get out and try stuff more in the months that I normally do not think of alpine climbing in. Way to go.
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Definitely curious, but new to NW climbing. Just moved to PDX, in good climbing shape, have appropriate gear, spent the summer on NOLS in Alaska- have my basics together. Not sure if you want a NW newbie around, but I am definitely interested in chasing routes like this. Let me know what you think or if there is a better way to get on the scene.
Thanks
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I moved to Portland about a month ago, spent this past summer on a NOLS semester in Alaska, and have been training at PRG lately. Looking for someone to lead 5.8-5.10, I boulder around V3. Game for weekend alpine painfests, looking to cut my teeth on local peaks. I live in Portland and am free most nights.
Looking for Rainier partners June 18th-20th
in Climbing Partners
Posted
I would also be very interested in working the route that weekend. Located in Portland, have strong glacier travel skills, spent a month mountaineering in Alaska last summer. I can definitely meet at the mountain Thursday night (climb Friday-Sunday) but can't take off earlier in the week. Millertime, if we can't hit the window during the week, fly in to Portland and we can drive up together.